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LETTERS 



ABOUT THE 



HUDSON RIVER, 



VICINITY. 

WRITTEN IN 1835—1837. 



A (shield's amang ye takin' notes, 

And, faith, he'll prent it.— Burns. 



I t87e- 

WITH ADDITIONS AND ENGRAVINGS. 



THIRD EDITION, 



^Weto ¥orfc: 

PUBLISHED BY FREEMAN HUNT & CO. 

No. 141 Nassau Street. 

1837. 






Enterbd, 

According to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by 

FREEMAN HUNT, 

111 the Clerk's office of the District Court of the Southern District of 

New York. 



BTERKOTVPfiU BY FHANCIS P. KirLEY, 
NEW YORK. 



TO THE 

HON. JAMES EMOTT, 

OF POUUHKEEPSffi, 

THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 

IN TESTIMONY OP THB 

high appreciation in which he is held 

by his friend and servant, 

THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE 



The following letters were originally writ- 
ten for the American Traveller. They were 
commenced without the remotest expecta- 
tion of their obtaining a circulation beyond 
that print. They have, however, been cop- 
ied into other journals, and it has occurred 
to the writer, that their publication in a con- 
nected form, might prove interesting and use- 
ful to the thousands who travel for business 
or pleasure in the steamboats that daily navi- 
gate the Hudson River. 

The letters, he is aware, possess no pecu- 
liar merit. They are plain, matter-of-fact 
epistles ; embracing, however, a variety of 
geographical, historical, statistical, and other 
matter, connected with the noble river, and 
the flourishing villages on its borders. 

As several important villages and towns 

on the river have been very briefly noticed, 

or altogether passed by, it is the purpose of 

the writer to continue his epistles to the Edi- 

1* 



V! PREFACE, 

tor of the Traveller : and should the present 
collection meet with encouragement, a second 
series, a volume of corresponding size and 
appearance, will, in the course of the coming 
fall, or ensuing spring, be published. 

The writer would not omit this opportu- 
nity of acknowledging his obligations to Capt. 
Lathrop, A. J. Downing, Esq., P. Potter, Esq., 
and several other gentlemen, for the facilities 
afforded by them, severally, in procuring 
much valuable information. 

New York, July 25, 1836. 

NOTE TO THE THIRD EDITION. 

It was the intention of the writer of the following series 
of letters, to have introduced a sketch of the history of 
steam navigation on the Hudson ; and, to gratify the cu- 
riosity of the distant reader, to have described the splen- 
did boats that plough its waters : — to have spoken of the 
speed of the Swallow, Erie, Champlain, Robert L. Stevens, 
Utica, and Rochester; of the elegance and comfort of the 
North America, Ohio, De Witt Clinton, and Albany, 
and of their efficient and gentlemanly officers. The 
boats on the North and East Rivers, are not surpassed by 
any in the world, for splendor or speed. Several towns 
have also been omitted, as well as the names of individu- 
als who have done the " state some service ;" but should 
another edition be called for, the writer will introduce 
other matters, that would prove interesting to him that 
travels up and down the river, and to him, who may thank 
Providence that he dwells on its beautiful banks, and in- 
hales its healthful and invigorating breeze. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 
LktterI 11 

Poughkeepsie — Location— Products of Dutchess County- 
Population of Poughkeepsie — Sidewalks — Churches — Enterpri- 
sing men— Education— College and Academies— Remarkable 
rise of real estate — Cause of it — A place for mechanics — Pros- 
pect from Mansion Square— Hatch's Hotel, etc. 

Letter n 16 

Col. Stone's description of the view from College Hill— Streets 
— Reservoir — Whaling Companies — Manufacture of Silk— New 
. Whale Ship— Anecdote— Good Wives. 

LbtterIII 20 

Peekskill— High tide— East winds— High-School— Paulding's 
Monument— Visit to Gen- Van Courtlandt— Antony's Nose— Bank 
—Religious Societies— Hotels— Capt. Tuthill— Steamboat Union. 



Letter IV. 



Dobbs' Ferry— Tarrytown— Population— Washington Irving- 
Churches— Circumstances at a Hotel, or treatment of travellers 
— The place of Andre's capture— An old Dutch Church— Rev. 
Mr. Smith— Schools— Road to White Plains— Inscription on Van 
Wart's Monument— White Plains— Imprisonment for debt. 

Letter V. 37 

Put up at the Mansion House— Troy a prominent point of inter- 
est— Visit to Mrs. Willard's Female Seminary— The Amateur 
Vocalist— Mrs. Willard's zeal in the cause of Education, etc. 



VU1 CONTENTS. 

Page 
Letter VI 43 

Location and plan of Troy— Public Buildings— View from 
Mount Ida— Original proprietor of the City— Historical notice- 
Religious Societies— Banks and Insurance Companies— Water 
Works — Fountains— Washington Square — Legrand Cannon's 
Building— Causes of prosperity— Self-made men— Gov. Marcy an 
Attorney. 

Letter VII 51 

Revolutionary Reminiscences— Tree near the Academy— Ex- 
ecution of Strang and Palmer— Gen. Putnam's memorable Let- 
ter—Circumstances which led to the capture of Major Andre- 
Vignette on the bills of Westchester Bank, etc. 

Letter VIII 60 

Origin of "Sing Sing"— Statistics— Description of Sing Sing 
Prison— The Chaplain— System of Discipline— The Lynd System 
— Folger and Matthias— Mount Pleasant Academy — Franklin 
Academy — The Newspaper— Public House, etc. 

Letter IX 69 

Views of the Hudson— Historical Items— The Hudson a Lake 
— The old man's story. 

Letter X 77 

The Travellers' Home— Mansion House, and its new proprie- 
tor — Troy House— Washington Hall— Apology— The Rail Road 
Cars — Description of Troy Bridge, etc.— Route to Balston and 
Saratoga Springs — Revolutionary Reminiscence — Battle at Se- 
mis' Heights— Distance to Balston—" Sans Souci"— Balston— Re- 
turn to Troy— Henry Burden— His residence— His genius, etc. 
—Reading Room, Troy— West Troy— Its business— M Adamized 
road to Albany— Stages, etc. 

Letter XI 96 

Revolutionary Reminiscences of the Hudson— Fort Edward- 
General Lyman— Story of the fate of Mise Jane M'Crea. 



CONTENTS. IX 

Page 
Letter XII 103 

Master Lipsey's Boat— Revolutionary Incident— The Boat Club 
— The passing of a Steamboat— Cold Spring— Col. George P. 
Morris's Mansion— Scenery— Old Cro'-Nest— Magnificent Site- 
Description of Col. Morris's House — The Gardener of an English 
Earl— Mischief of Ignorance— Our Lady of Cold Spring— Lines 
for Music, etc. 



Letter XIII 113 

Strictures on Albany— The Clergy— Historical sketch of Al- 
bany— Head-Quarters of Gen. Layfayette— Mrs. Grant's descrip- 
tion of Albany in olden time— Manner of living there— Hermit- 
age— Gentle treatment of slaves among the Albanians — Conse- 
quent attachment of domestics, etc. 

Letter XIV 134 

Academies and Common Schools — Albany Academy for Boys 
— Dr. Beck — The Female Academy — Introduced by Mr Critt en- 
ton to the Different Departments — The plan of Instruction— Dr. 
Barber's System of Elocution — "The Language of the Flowers," 
a poetical effusion from a young Lady of the Academy — Descrip- 
tion of the Building— Location, etc.— The Baptist Church— The 
old Capitol— Architectural description of the new State Hall— 
Of St. Paul's Church— South Dutch Church— The Old Stone 
Pulpit— North Dutch Church. 

Letter XV 151 

Revisit Poughkeepsie— Rapid Progress of Improvement— New 
Silk Factory— Inventive genius of Gen. Harvey— Patent Screw 
Company— Coining Money— Patent Saw for felling trees— Patent 
Stock Frames— Advantages of Poughkeepsie, etc.— Report of 
the Inspectors of Grain— Dutchess Plains— Scenery— Poetry- 
Ride to Hyde Park— Derivation of the name— The late Dr. Ho- 
sack's place— Churches and population— Cultivated grounds- 
Death of Dr. Hosack. etc. 



X CONTENTS. 

Lester XVI 164 

How the writer obtained the History of the Military Academy 
at West Point— Lt. Roswell Park— West Point a place of inter- 
est—Hallowed by Washington, Kosciusko, Lafayette, etc.— View 
of West Point after entering the Mountain Gap above— The 
Monuments— Links of the chain broken by the British vessels 
in 1777— Early History of the Academy— The Officers— Practi- 
cal considerations which should influence those who are seek- 
ing or who may gain admission to the Military Academy, etc. 

Letter XVII 189 

Settlement of Newburgh — Location — Population — Showy ap- 
pearance from the River— Place of business— Steamboats— Ex- 
tensive manufacture of Bricks in Newburgh and vicinity— Iron 
Foundry — Newburgh Brewery — Col. Crawford's extensive 
Storehouse — Business crowded into one street — Botanic Gardens 
and Nursery of the Messrs. Downing — Description of the same 
— J. W. Knevels' collection of exotic Plants, the most extensive 
in the country — View from Beacon Hill — Splendid Scenery — 
Reasons for supposing the Hudson was once a Lake — Washing- 
ton's Head-Quarters— The United States Hotel— Walden, a man- 
ufacturing village on the Walkill— Its resources, etc. 

Letter XVIII 201 

Original purchase and first settlement of Hudson— The Whale 
Fishery— Reverses of Hudson — Hudson and Berkshire Rail 
Road— Statistical Estimates— Girard College— Lebanon Springs 
— Capital, &c, of Whaling Companies— Capt. Paddock— The 
Shipping of Hudson— Rail Road ropes— Alexander Coffin— Cap- 
tain Gordon— New Court House and Jail— Private Dwellings- 
Churches — Doctor White's Asylum for the Insane — Education 
—Distinguished men of Hudson— Grave of Lieut. Win, II. Allen 
— Col. Jenkins— Location of Hudson, &c— Views— North Bay 
—View from Prospect Hill— Steamboats— Banking Capital— Vil- 
lage of Athens— Ferry, &c. 

Letter XIX 223 

Literary Institutions of Poughkeepsie— Distinguished Men — 
Stranger's Grave— Public Journals— Manufactures— Mines of 
Dutchess County, &c. &c. 

Saratoga Springs 244 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, &c, 



LETTER I. 

Poughkeepsie — Location— Products of Dutchess County — 
Population of Poughkeepsie — Sidewalks — Churches — En- 
terprising men—Education — College and Academies — Re- 
markable rise of real estate — Cause of it-^A place for me- 
chanics — Prospect from Mansion Square— Hatch's Ho- 
tel, etc. 

Poughkeepsie, N. Y., Sept. 5, 1835. 

Dear P. — In my last from New York city, I 
promised the disclosure of some facts relative to 
this interesting and nourishing village. But the 
peculiar advantages of its location, its rapidly in- 
creasing population, the public spirit of the citi- 
zens, the great advance of real estate, and the in- 
troduction of new sources of improvement and 
wealth, have been of late so generally the subject 
of newspaper remark, that I am fearful I shall not 
be able to add much that is new or interesting to 
the general stock. But to begin. — Poughkeepsie 
may justly rank with the first villages in New 
York or New England. Indeed, I am not ac- 
quainted with a single village which in some im- 
portant particulars equals it, and but few that will 



12 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

bear a favourable comparison. It is situated on the 
east bank of the Hudson, midway between Albany 
and New York. It is the court town of the rich- 
est county save one in the " Empire State," and as 
a highly cultivated agricultural county, it is, I ap- 
prehend, unsurpassed by any other in the Union. 
The gross products of the county, from its soil, its 
mines, and its manufactories, are believed by per- 
sons best qualified to judge, to approach very near 
to five millions of dollars per annum. The pro- 
ducts of Dutchess and Ulster counties, and a por- 
tion of the western towns of Connecticut, are 
brought to this village, where they are shipped for 
the great commercial market. The village is very 
compact — the streets numerous, spacious, and well 
paved. The sidewalks too are neatly paved, and 
give the traveller a very favourable impression of 
the public spirit of the corporation. The popula- 
tion of the village in 1830 was 5022, and the town 
about 7000; now the population of the village 
exceeds 7000, and the town contains well nigh 
10,000. The assessment of real estate in the cor- 
poration in 1834 was $1,099,085; of personal, 
$937,700. There are seven places of public wor- 
ship : one Baptist, two Friends, one Episcopal, one 
Methodist, one Presbyterian, and one Dutch Re- 
formed. The Episcopal church is a beautiful 
Gothic edifice. It was built in 1833. A second 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 13 

Episcopal church is about being erected. A se- 
cond Presbyterian church is now going up, and 
another Baptist and Catholic church are, ^1 un- 
derstand, to be commenced without delay. The 
public spirit of such men as Cunningham, Tal- 
madge, Potter, Oakley, Vassar, Hatch, and a few 
others, gentlemen of intelligence and liberality, 
will not stop till it has given the place not only a 
beautiful external appearance and a business char- 
acter, but endowed it with the means of education 
and intellectual improvement. They have project- 
ed, and are making rapid efforts for building a 
large and commodious academy for girls and boys; 
and a lofty and one of the most beautiful sites in 
the county has been purchased, on which an im- 
posing edifice is to be built, to be occupied as a 
collegiate school of the highest order. Another is 
to be erected and liberally endowed for young la- 
dies. These advantages of general education, will 
unquestionably hold out inducements of the most 
powerful kind, to wealthy gentlemen with families 
to settle in this healthy and delightful village. At 
a recent sale of land, quite a number of persons 
of this description were present, and one hundred 
and eighty-three lots of ground, suitable for house 
lots, together with a farm of one hundred and three 
acres, situated two miles south of the courthouse, 
w-ere sold for $79,279. Lots which were sold 
i 



14 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

eighteen months since for $600, have been sold for 
$4000. A plot of fourteen acres in the suburbs of 
the village, which was purchased ten months since 
for $4000, was recently sold for $14,000. An- 
other plot, which could have been purchased nine 
months before for $10,000, was sold a few days 
since for $24,000. A farm in the vicinity, which 
was offered twenty months since for $22,000, has 
lately been sold for $68,000. A lot in the village, 
purchased sixty days since for $2000, has been 
sold for $5000. This enumeration of facts I have 
from the most unquestionable authority. Some 
view this rise as the result of the " speculating ma- 
nia," which exists all over the country at this time. 
But I must, I confess, concur with an intelligent 
gentleman of New England, whom I have just 
seen, in the opinion, that the primary cause of this 
advance is to be found in the enterprise and public 
spirit manifested by the gentlemen alluded to above, 
and which now seems to prevail with the whole 
population. 

Few places in the country afford better oppor- 
tunities for ingenious and industrious mechanics. 
The enterprising gentlemen who are labouring with 
laudable zeal to promote the growth of Pough- 
keepsie, have struck out a course which cannot 
fail of success, that of introducing new branches of 
business; hence every ingenious mechanic is ta- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 15 

ken by the hand, and every facility afforded him 
for starting and prosecuting his business. 

I have, perhaps, already extended my letter be- 
yond the limits allotted a correspondent; but I 
consider the general diffusion of the statistical, 
commercial, and geographical knowledge of inter- 
esting portions of our wide-spread republic, of vast 
importance to enterprising Yankees; and as your 
paper has an extensive circulation, and particu- 
larly in our best hotels, where such information is 
eagerly sought for by the traveller, I feel per- 
suaded that the space occupied will not be thrown 
away, and therefore, with your permission, I shall 
devote one or two letters more to this place. The 
delightful prospect from Mansion Square, and the 
neighbouring hill, which affords the most extended 
view of hill and dale, cultivated to a charm, the 
courteous and intelligent society, and the comforts 
of one of the best hotels in the country, have ren- 
dered my tarry very pleasant, and induced me to 
linger much longer than I anticipated on my ar- 
rival. It is scarcely necessary, but in justice I am 
induced to mention, that the hotel alluded to, is 
now kept, and has been for the last seven years, by 
Messrs. A. S. Hatch & Son — and a more airy, 
comfortable, and commodious house, or more cour- 
teous and gentlemanly hosts, I have seldom met 
with in my journeyings. 



LETTER II. 

Col. Stone's description of the view from College Hill- 
Streets — Reservoir — Whaling Companies — Manufacture 
of Silk— New Whale Ship — Anecdote — Good Wives. 

Pougbkeepsie, Sept. 25, 1835. 

Dear P. — Since writing my last from this place 
I have seen the letters of Col. Stone, the elite edi- 
tor of the Commercial Advertiser, written while 
"luxuriating" on the delicacies of the Mansion 
House, and although I alluded to the splendid 
views afforded from the hill in the vicinity of 
" Mansion Square," whose brow is to be crowned 
with the classie temple of learning, I cannot re- 
frain from introducing a passage from the Colonel's 
graphic description. 

He says \—" It is neither of steep nor of diffi- 
cult access, and is sufficiently elevated to afford a 
landscape of great extent, and of mingled grandeur 
and beauty. It will be studded with villas on all 
sides to its base. On the south, it will overlook the 
town of Poughkeepsie and the beautiful district of 
country, thence to the Fishkill range of mountains 
and the highlands. On the west and the north, 
the Shawangunk and the Catskill mountains rear 
their azure crests in the distance,— the Hudson si- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 17 

lently rolling his mighty volume of waters through 
the vale below ; while on the east the prospect is 
only hounded by the mountainous regions of west- 
ern Connecticut and Massachusetts. And on all 
sides, within the circle I have thus indicated, the 
landscape is of surpassing beauty — composed of 
fertile villas and gently swelling hills — of farms, 
orchards, and gardens, in a high state of cultiva- 
tion, studded with villas, and ornamented with for- 
ests of various timber — : among which are the oak 
and the locust. Such will be the position of the 
Poughkeepsie University — the eye resting, on 
which soever side it falls, upon a country resem- 
bling an immense garden — rich, fertile, beautiful !" 
Since 1831, more than $100,000 have been ex- 
pended in opening, regulating, and paving streets. 
A reservoir has been built on an eminence about 
half a mile from Hatch's Hotel, for supplying the 
village with water for the extinguishment of fires, 
at an expense of from 25 to $30,000, showing a 
degree of liberality on the part of the corporation, 
not surpassed, if we take into the account the rela- 
tive means, by the city of New York, in their pro- 
ject for bringing spring water to that city. Two 
whaling companies, with a capital of $200,000 
each, have been established. A company for the 
growing and the manufacture of silk, with a capi- 
tal of $200,000, has commenced the erection of a 
2* 



18 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

brick factory, thirty-six by one hundred feet, four 
stories high. The silk factory will be in opera- 
tion before the close of the present season. 

One of the ships now building in the extensive 
shipyard of Messrs. Tooker & Hait is to be 
called the Nathaniel P. Tallmadge, a compliment 
to that gentleman, as merited as it is just; for to 
his liberal and enterprising spirit, in a great meas- 
ure, belongs the present prosperity and future pros- 
pects of the village. 

And here I cannot refrain from relating an an- 
ecdote of one of the gentlemen who have been very 
active in every laudable effort to promote the good 
of Poughkeepsie. Possessed of ample resources, 
but a heart much larger than his ability, his libe- 
rality was scarcely circumscribed by his means ; 
his purse and his credit were never solicited in 
vain. His resources, however, in time failed, and 
he became a bankrupt; but in order to provide for 
his family, he commenced the business of a broker, 
and as usual, before the traffic was prohibited by 
law, sold lottery tickets. At the drawing, half a 
ticket was left on his hands, and that ticket came 
out a prize of $50,000 ; and although he had ta- 
ken the benefit of the insolvent act, and was not of 
course legally obliged, he very magnanimously 
paid every creditor to "the uttermost farthing." 
He had something left. Fortune has continued to 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 19 

smile on the liberal soul, and he is now once more 
independent, actively engaged in advancing the 
public good. Such men are an honour to human 
nature. Would to God we had them in every vil- 
lage throughout our wide spread country. 
4 By the way, friend Porter, if you have any 
young men in your goodly city in want of wives, 
and good ones I have no doubt — some of the fair 
are certainly very beautiful — I advise you to send 
them on forthwith to the care of our gallant young 
friend of the Poughkeepsie Hotel, as there are in 
the village, according to a census just completed, 
one thousand one hundred and thirteen unmarried 
young ladies, ready, doubtless, to enter into the 
blissful estate of matrimony. Hatch takes the best 
care of all visiters, whatever may be their business, 
when put under his protection. Adieu for the 
present. Yours, &c. 



LETTER III. 

Peekskill—High tide-East winds — High-school— Paulding 1 s 
monument — Visit to Gen. VanCourtlandt — Antony's Nose — 
Bank — Religious societies — Hotels — Capt. Tuthill — Steam- 
boat Union. 

Peekskill, Sept. 1835. 

Friend P. — Here I am, at Peekskill, com- 
pletely hemmed in by the overflowing tide of the 
Hudson. The street in front of the house is cov- 
ered with water ankle deep, and still increasing. 
The water has nearly reached the window where 
I sit writing, which overlooks the river to Cald- 
well's Landing, and the noble Dunderberg but two 
miles distant, yet scarcely visible in consequence of 
the dense state of the atmosphere. 

Peekskill is about forty-five miles from New 
York, containing well nigh fifteen hundred inhabit- 
ants, and with a little more enterprise would, from its 
pleasant and healthy location, and its proximity to 
the city of New York, become a place of consid- 
erable mercantile importance. The high tide, al- 
luded to above, is not an uncommon occurrence at 
this season of the year on the river. The east 
winds are not one half so unpleasant in their effects 
upon the system here as in your city. They be- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 21 

come somewhat softened in their passage over the 
country; and the highlands of the north stand up 
as an impregnable barrier to keep off these " down 
east" intruders. 

But for Peekskill. The most interesting evi- 
dence that there is a spark of public spirit ex- 
isting in this ancient settlement, which will sooner 
or later burst into a flame, is to be found in the 
establishment of a high-school, and the erection 
of a very neat, spacious and appropriate edifice for 
that purpose, on a most delightful eminence ; where 
the healthful and invigorating breeze from the tow- 
ering mountains in the vicinity, pours forth its 
" medicinal" influence ; and where the soul alive 
to the sentiments of beauty, variety, and sublimity, 
can view with rapture the variegated and pictur- 
esque scenery, the beautiful and expansive bay, the 
towering and gigantic Dunderberg, the "race," 
and the opening of the majestic highlands. But 
my pen affords an altogether inadequate descrip- 
tion of the scene. Peekskill is certainly well sit- 
uated for purposes of education ; furnishing, as it 
does, facilities for communicating daily, nay almost 
hourly, with the great city; and from my own per- 
sonal inference, as well as the testimony of others, 
I doubt whether there is a place in the whole range 
of the Hudson, where health can be more con- 
veniently sought, or more surely gained. The 



22 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

academy was built with a capital stock, divided into 
shares of five dollars each, and taken up princi- 
pally by the inhabitants of the village. The prin- 
cipal, Mr. Thompson, is a very worthy, intelligent 
teacher. The present number of pupils is about 
sixty. Board is furnished in the same building to 
scholars, whose parents do not reside in the vil- 
lage. 

It should not be forgotten that this is the birth- 
place of John Paulding, the American farmer, who 
intercepted Andre, the British spy, at Tarrytown, 
some fifteen miles below this place. I rode out to 
his monument a few days since. It is situated 
about two miles to the north of the village. The 
monument is of marble, a pyramid, about fifteen 
feet high, running to a point. It is enclosed in an 
iron railing about twelve feet square. The main 
inscription is on the south side, and runs thus : — 

" Here reposes the mortal remains of 

John Paulding, 

Who died on the 18th day of February, 1818, 

in the 60th year of his age. 

On the morning of the 23d of September, 1780, 

Accompanied by two young farmers of the county 

of Westchester, 

(Whose names will one day be recorded 

on their own deserved monuments,) 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. IS 

He intercepted the British Spy, Andre. 

Poor Himself, 

He disdained to acquire wealth by sacrificing 

His Country; 

Rejecting the temptation of great rewards, 

He conveyed his prisoner to the American camp, 

And 

By this act of noble self-denial, 

The treason of Arnold was detected; 

The designs of the enemy baffled ; 

West Point and the American Army saved, 

And these U. S. 

Now by the grace of God free and independent, 

Rescued from imminent peril." 

On the opposite side is written — 

" The Corporation 

of the 

City of New York 

Erect this tomb 

as a memorial 

Raised to 

Public Gratitude." 

On the east side is a beautiful wreath engraved 
On the marble with the word "Fidelity." The 
inscription on the other side I have forgotten. 

On the way to the monument, and but a few 
rods this side, is the residence of Gen. Pierre Van 



21 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Courtlandt, an old gentleman of sixty. I called on 
him and spent an hour very pleasantly. He was 
reading " Horse Shoe Robinson," and remarked, 
as he laid it down, that he was not a little inter- 
ested with it, as he liked every thing which rela- 
ted to the revolutionary war. His father was an 
officer in that war, and his grandfather was the 
first Lieutenant Governor of this State ; an office 
which he held for more than twenty years. The 
place where he lives, and all his real estate, he 
holds by the will of his father ; and the original 
grant of the British King to his grandfather. Gen. 
V. is the owner of Antony's Nose, (on the river,) 
as it is called. He gave me the origin of that name. 
Before the revolution, a vessel was passing up 
the river, under the command of a Capt. Hogans ; 
when immediately opposite this mountain, the mate 
looked rather quizzically, first at the mountain, and 
then at the captain's nose. The captain, by the 
way, had an enormous nose, which was not un- 
frequently the subject of good-natured remark; and 
he at once understood the mate's allusion. " What," 
says the captain, " does that look like my nose 1 
call it then if you please Antony's nose.' The 
story was repeated on shore, and the mountain 
thenceforward assumed the name, and has thus be- 
come an everlasting monument to the memory of 
the redoubtable Capt, Antony Hogans and his nose. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, 



The elevation of Antony's Nose is one thousand 
two hundred and twenty-eight feet from the level of 
the river, and directly opposite Fort Montgomery 
Creek. Washington Irving supposes its name to 
be derived from the nose of Antony Van Corlaer. 
It differs from the origin given me by Gen. V. 

The christening of the mount is described in the 
story of the Dutch governor's first voyage up the 
Hudson, as follows : " Just at this moment the illus- 
trious sun, breaking in all his splendour from be- 
hind one of the high cliffs of the Highlands, did 
dart one of his most potent beams full upon the re- 
fulgent nose of the sounder of brass. The reflection 
of which shot straightway down, hissing hot into 
the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was 
sporting beside the vessel ! When this astonishing 
miracle came to be made known to Peter Stuyve- 
sant (the governor,) he, as may well be supposed, 
marvelled exceedingly; and as a monument thereof, 
gave the name of Antony's Nose to a stout prom- 
ontory in the neighbourhood, and it has continued 
to be called Antony's Nose ever since." From 
here to Fort Montgomery, which is now in ruins, 
on the opposite side, a large boom and chain was 
extended during the revolutionary war, which cost 
about seventy thousand pounds sterling. It was 
partly destroyed by Gen. Sir Henry Clinton, in Oc- 
tober, 1777. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



Gen. V. gave me the time from a small buli's 
eye gold watch, which he drew from his fob, and 
which he said must be at least one hundred and 
fifty years old, as it was the property of his great- 
great grandfather, and had come down regularly 
to him. 

After drinking the hospitable General's health, 
in a glass of fine old Madeira, I took my depar- 
ture. The residence of Gen. Van Courtlandt is 
antique, but the grounds around are in the highest 
state of cultivation. A Bank, with a capital of 
$200,000, was established in Peekskill about two 
years since, and General V. was elected President. 
It is in a flourishing condition. The stock has 
sold at almost as great an advance as ever the 
United States Bank stock did. There is a bust of 
Gen. Van Courtlandt's father in the bank. The 
produce of many towns in Westchester, and most 
of the towns in Putnam county, is shipped in the 
Peekskill sloops for New York. There are seven 
which are constantly in motion, with produce of 
various kinds for the New York market. 

There are six religious societies in Peekskill — 
two Friends or Quakers — one Presbyterian — one 
Dutch Reformed — one Methodist— one Universal- 
ist — and an Episcopal Church is about being erect- 
ed. With a portion of the funds of the Trinity 
corporation, it will doubtless flourish. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 27 

The Hotels in Peek skill are not remarkable for 
the splendour of their construction, or their commo- 
diousness, neither are they managed with remark- 
able liberality or comfort. I would, however, ex- 
cept the house kept by Col. Williams, who, by 
the way, is a very gentlemanly, worthy man ; and 
has the reputation of keeping a good house, al- 
though I have had no opportunity of judging. He 
is about removing into a neat and spacious build- 
ing, which is nearly finished, and then I hope to 
speak more understandingly of his establishment. 
A new hotel is soon to be erected on Antony's 
Nose, as a summer house. 

Although I have "spun out" this epistle to a 
great length, I cannot forbear the present opportu- 
nity of alluding to the fine little steamer Union, 
which plies between New York and this village 
daily, landing passengers at Greenburgh, Yon- 
kers, Tarrytown, Sing Sing, Grassy Point, and 
Caldwell's. Capt. Tuthill, of the Union, is an af- 
fable, courteous officer. He unites these qualities 
with great experience, having been connected with 
the Hudson River steamboats for more than twelve 
years. A few days since, a party of gentlemen 
presented him with a splendid silver pitcher, as a 
token of their respect for his private worth, and 
excellent conduct as a steam navigator. But I 
must close. Adieu for the present. 



LETTER IV. 

Dobbs* Ferry— Tarry town— Population — Washington Ir- 
ving — Churches — Circumstances at a Hotel, or treatment 
of travellers — The place of Andre's capture — An old Dutch 
Church— Rev. Mr. Smith— Schools— Road to White Plains 
— Inscription on Van Wart's Monument— White Plains 
— Imprisonment for debt. 

New York, Oct 20, 1835. 

Friend P. — On Wednesday I left New York 
in the good steamer Union, " not knowing the 
things that would befall me." * * * * 
I, however, landed at Dobb's Ferry, about twenty 
miles up the Hudson, and lingered about the place 
two hours, viewing the thrifty orchards and highly 
cultivated grounds of Livingston and Constant, 
and then took private conveyance to Tarrytown. 
Dobb's Ferry and Tarrytown are two small villa- 
ges in the township of Greenburgh, both market 
and steamboat landings, situated about five miles 
apart on the east side of the Hudson. The popu- 
lation of the whole township does not exceed fifteen 
hundred. 

There are a number of delightful, picturesque, 
and extensive prospects, and several wealthy gen- 
tlemen farmers reside in the vicinity. On our 
road to Tarrytown we passed the elegant man- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



sion of a Mr. Hamilton, son of Alexander Hamil- 
ton, the distinguished statesman, who fell in a duel 
with the ambitious Burr. A quarter of a mile 
from the main road towards the Hudson, about 
midway between Dobbs' Ferry and Tarrytown, is 
the residence of Oscar Irving, a nephew of our 
distinguished countryman, Washington Irving, who 
js erecting a cottage near that of his relatives, 
where hs intends to pass his life in rural retire- 
ment, and the pursuit of literature and learning. 
His elegant and graphic pen, and his chastened 
and classic imagination, will add new charms to 
the noble, the majestic, the exquisite scenery of the 
Hudson. With a heart alive to the emotions of 
benevolence, and with habits congenial to the genius 
of domestic bliss, 1 am not a little surprised that 
one who has portrayed with grace and delicacy, 
and has in his works rendered the most exalted 
tribute to the female character, should so long re- 
main in "single-blessedness," as a certain condition 
is sometimes falsely called. But the busy tongue 
of rumour says, that the charm of celibacy will 
soon be broken, and that the best of writers, will 
become the best of husbands. So mote it be. 

At Dobbs' Ferry there are two places of public 

worship. A Presbyterian meeting house, a small 

wooden building; and a neat little Episcopal church, 

built of stone, in the gothic order. There are two 

3* 



30 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

public houses, and a post-office. On the land of 
Livingston, are the remains of an old fort thrown 
up in the war of the revolution. Harvey, the painter, 
resides here. The village has a " newness" which 
indicates improvement. Building lots, and farms 
I am told, advance with the general rise all over 
the country. 

On my arrival at Tarrytown, I put up at a place 
purporting to be a Hotel ; but unlike any thing I 
ever before visited ; and God forbid that I should 
ever "see the like again." It was towards sun- 
down when I arrived. My small baggage I took 
to my lodgings, and coming down, I inquired of a 
young woman, a daughter of " mine host," the 
hour of tea. " Oh," said she, " some time after dark, 
when the folks come in from picking apples." 
This answer sounded rather queer and indefinite, 
but I let it pass. Appearances were much in fa- 
vour of the house: it was neat — the beds were com- 
fortable, and every thing around had an air of 
cleanliness. The next morning, at breakfast, " mine 
host" was repeating a quarrel which took place be- 
tween him and a lodger during the night. He 
said "he would not entertain these d d Yan- 
kees — he was rich enough to live without keeping 
a public house, and those who stopped with him 
must behave themselves and do as he wished them, 
or he'd kick them out quicker than they came in." 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 31 

He was, however, very civil to me that day. In 
the evening, I called on a reverend gentleman, and 
returned about nine, when I found the house closed 
and barred, and not the glimmer of a light to mark 
the mansion of the living. A few gentle taps, 
however, brought " mine host," in the condition so 
delicately and so graphically described by Tom 
Cringle. The door opened, and the mouth of 
"mine host" at about the same time, in tones of 
corresponding harmony — (vocal and instrumental) 
— " What are you out so late for . ? " said he. I 
made no reply, but took the light from the " impu- 
dent varlet's" hand, and made my way to bed. The 
next morning I arose at half past 7, and seeing no 
indications of approaching breakfast, I sallied forth 
in pursuit of a barber, which not finding, I return- 
ed, and inquired if breakfast was ready. "We 
have been to breakfast," said the hostess. "Been 
to breakfast! — why didn't you call me, madam?" 
said I. " We have other business to attend to with- 
out calling folks up to breakfast," said she. " Well 
then," said I, "you may attend to it — give me my 
bill, if you please, madam." I paid my bill, two 
shillings and sixpence a meal, including boiled 
pork and cabbage, and exclusive of any thing else, 
save and except potatoes, turnips, and onions, in one 
miscellaneous dish of salmagundi. 

I related my sufferings to the good people of 



32 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON*. 

Tarrytown, and excited no little commiseration, 
and the most courteous and friendly proffers of 
kindness and hospitality ; but as I intended leaving 
town that day, I declined the invitations. I found, 
however, that the host and his house were well 
known, and that scarce a traveller stopt there with- 
out having some difficulty with the ignorant booby 
who pretends to keep a hotel. Indeed, many trav- 
ellers go four or five miles out of the way, to avoid 
stopping at this house. I have related these cir- 
cumstances for the benefit of your numerous sub- 
scribers in this State, and those who may chance 
to pass through this place, and hear the name of 
Smith of the " Tarrytown Hotel." 

Tarrytown is a still, quiet village, famed in the 
history of the first American war, as the place 
where Andre was captured by Paulding and his 
associates. No monument marks the spot where 
this scene occurred, although it is pretty accurately 
ascertained. The inhabitants of the village made 
the attempt some years ago, but for want of energy 
and spirit did not accomplish the design. It was 
a memorable event, and one of great importance to 
our national liberty, and some monument should 
tell the place and record the circumstances. 

It is said that the tree, under which Andre was 
taken, was struck by lightning on the very day the 
news of Gen. Arnold's death was received at Tar- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 33 

rytown. Singular coincidence this ! It was a white- 
wood tree, and uncommonly large, being twenty- 
six feet in circumference and forty-one high. 

There is a " Dutch Reformed Church" at Tar- 
rytown, one hundred and sixty-two years old, and 
a very ancient burying ground, supposed to be older 
than the church. The pulpit and the communion 
table are of oak, and were brought from Holland. 
The bricks were made in Holland. The Rev. 
Thomas G. Smith, the present pastor of this church, 
is a Scotchman, but was an American patriot in 
the revolutionary war. He is a worthy, intelli- 
gent, and hospitable old gentlemen, of upwards of 
seventy, and has been the spiritual pastor of the 
flock for more than thirty years. 

There are two excellent private boarding schools 
in this village, one for boys and the other for young 
ladies. The former is under the superintendence 
of a Mr. See, and the latter is managed by two 
Quaker ladies. 

On Friday, I hired a conveyance to White Plains, 
seven miles east of Tarrytown. The route is a per- 
fect zigzag, and I can assure you that we headed 
every one, at least, of the cardinal points of the 
compass. And for roughness, the passage of the 
Green Mountains does not even vie with it. This 
is all absolute matter of fact, and I am prepared to 
make affidavit to that effect before any justice of the 



34 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

peace in Christendom. About midway, we passed 
the monument of Van Wart, of Andre memory. I 
alighted, and taking out a pencil, took down the sev- 
eral inscriptions on the four sides. On the North— • 

Here reposes 
the mortal remains 

of 

Isaac Van Wart, 

An Elder of the Greenburgh Church, 

who died 

on the 23d of May, 1828, 

in the 

69th year of his age. 

Having lived the life, he died the death of the 

Christian. 

On the South side it is written — 

The Citizens 

of the 

County of Westchester 

Erected this Tomb, 

in testimony of the high sense 

they entertained for the 

Virtuous and Patriotic conduct 

of their fellow citizen, 

and as a memo-rial sacred to 

Public Gratitude. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 35 

On the East side we have — 

Vincit Amor Patriae. 

Nearly half a century 

before this monument was built, 

The Conscript Fathers of America 

had, in the Senate Chamber, voted that 

Isaac Van Wart 

was a faithful Patriot — one in whom 

the love of Country was Invincible, 

and this Tomb bears testimony 

that the Record is true. 

On the West side the inscription reads after this 
manner — 

"Fidelity. On the 23d of Sept. 1780, Isaac 
Van Wart, accompanied by John Paulding and 
Daniel Williams, all Farmers of the county of 
Westchester, intercepted Major Andre on his re- 
turn from the American lines in the character of a 
Spy, and notwithstanding the large bribes offered 
them for his release, nobly disdained to sacrifice 
their country for gold, secured and carried him to 
the commanding officer of the district, whereby the 
dangerous and traitorous conspiracy of Arnold was 
brought to light, the insidious designs of the ene- 
my baffled, the American army saved, and our be- 
loved country free," &c. 

Paulding was, unquestionably, the maeter spirit 



36 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

of the trio. He is represented by those who knew 
him, as a brave man and a good soldier. 

White Plains is a small village, with about five 
hundred inhabitants, and is the county town for 
Westchester. The Court House and the Jail, of 
course, have their location here. Thank God, 
however, the poor debtor is not incarcerated for pov- 
erty, in the prisons of New York. I blush for the 
attempt making in my native State to restore that 
relic of barbarism to the code. Continue in the 
same fearless way you have commenced, to advo- 
cate the cause of the poor and the oppressed, in 
opposition to a few interested enemies of popular 
rights, and the " inglorious twenty"* will hide their 
diminished heads, and retire to the obscurity they 
deserve. I had intended to notice the last named 
village more fully, but the foregoing digression fills 
the second sheet of your New York Traveller. 

* Mr. Porter, the editor of the American Traveller a paper 
which he has conducted with ability for the last ten or twelve 
years, has ever fearlessly advocated the abolishment of im- 
prisonment for debt. The " inglorious twenty," is a term he 
applied to twenty Senators, who voted for the perpetuation 
of this barbarous law. 



LETTER V. 

Put up at the Mansion House — Troy a prominent point of 
interest— Visit to Mrs. WillaroVs Female Seminary— The 
Amateur Vocalist — Mrs. Willard's zeal in the cause of 
Education, fyc. 

Mansion House, Troy, N. Y., November 13, 1835. 

Friend P. — My epistle, in one respect at least 
are " like angels visits, few and far between," but 
on that account may, I presume, be the more ac- 
ceptable to that portion of your readers who prefer 
the sparkling effusions of a brilliant imagination 
to the plain matter of fact letters of a plain man, 
like your humble servant. 1 arrived here two 
days since, and find myself so pleasantly located 
under the protecting care of the worthy Doctor, 
who presides over the destinies of the transient re- 
sidents of the Mansion House, that my tarry will 
be somewhat protracted, and you may expect to 
hear from me several times before I take up the 
line of march. 

Troy may be considered a prominent point of 
interest as the mercantile head of navigation on the 
noble Hudson ; and its enterprise and public spirit, 
as well as its topographical situation, entitle it to 
more than a passing notice. I have just returned 
from a visit to Mrs. Willard's Female Seminar y, 
4 



38 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

and it affords me unfeigned pleasure to be able to 
give some account of one of the most interesting 
establishments of the kind in the Union. The 
principal of this Institution is a lady of no ordi- 
nary mind, and possesses in an eminent degree all 
those traits of character which add to the dignity 
of the sex. Mrs. Willard has been engaged in the 
cause of female education more than fifteen years 
past. In 1819 she established a Female Academy 
at Waterford, and obtained an act of incorporation 
from the New York Legislature, without, however,, 
receiving any aid from the State. The plan of 
her institution at that time unmatured by the ex- 
perience of yearn, met the decided approbation of 
the intelligent, and gave to the female sex advan- 
tages in point of soi\d mental acquirements, and 
general improvement, m branches of taste, utility, 
and science, much beyond vrhat they had previously 
enjoyed in this vicinity. Encouraged by the liber- 
ality of a few gentlemen at Troy, she was induced 
to remove hither, in May, 1821; when she entered 
a new building erected for that purpose. Since 
that time her school has increased in importance 
and favour with the public, and has now probably 
a larger number of boarding scholars than any 
Female Academy in the Union. The building 
was enlarged in 1824. and in 1828 an additional 
edifice was erected, fifty by thirty-seven feet, con- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 39 

nected by a sort of out-door-chamber entry. An- 
other addition to the main building was made in 
1833. The several alterations have all been made 
without affecting- the unity of the original design, 
and the main structure is now one hundred and 
thirty feet by forty. 

There are at present about two hundred and sixty 
young ladies, from every state in the Union, from 
the Canadas, the West Indies, one from Scotland, 
•one from London, and two from Paris. The last 
came over with Mrs. W. on her return from Eu- 
rope, a few years since. Her family consists of 
one hundred and sixty persons, one hundred and 
ten of whom are boarding scholars. Mrs. Willard, 
as principal, is assisted by two " vice principals," 
and twenty-two teachers and officers, two only of 
whom are gentlemen. 

Were I a Bachellor, I should have hesitated about 
accepting the pressing invitation of the hospitable 
head of the institution, to take tea with her numer- 
ous and attractive family. But the courtesy was 
extended so sincerely and frankly, and being anx- 
ious to learn something of the domestic arrange- 
ments of the institution, I cheerfully complied, al- 
though I confess I felt somewhat abashed, on en- 
tering a dining-room with one hundred and thirty 
blushing and beautiful maidens. My worthy host- 
ess, however, by her ease of manners and a^reea- 



4\J LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

ble conversation, soon dispeled this feeling". There 
were six tier of tables. We sat down at the head 
of the middle tier. Sweet home-baked wheat bread, 
with butter, hasty pudding and molasses, and an 
excellent cup of black tea, was the simple, but 
wholesome fare, set before us. Here, perhaps, I 
shoujd remark, that the "National dish" alluded 
to is only served up occasionally. At breakfast, 
tea and coffee, with bread or toast, and meat, form 
the meal. The dinners are uniform, all alike ; but 
one dish of meat is served, be it roast beef, lamb, or 
poultry ; with, however, the usual and appropriate 
variety of vegetables. 

After tea I accompanied my hostess to the lecture- 
room, directly over the dining-room, and listened 
with great pleasure to the vocal and instrumental 
performances of several young ladies. A sweet- 
toned piano of your Boston Chickering, "discoursed 
most eloquent music." I imagined myself listen- 
ing to the masterly performance of some great pro- 
fessor, instead of a girlish amateur of sixteen. And, 
O ye powers of Jove, not to speak profanely, if the 
melody of that holy and happy world beyond the 
spangled sky, partakes of the exquisite harmony of 
the blooming beauty whose rich soft notes fell upon 
my ears, then is heaven worth all the miseries, suffer- 
ings, toils, and privations of life, aye, and the pains 
of martyrdom. I have heard our best theatrical 



LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 41 

singers — I have heard those who possessed more 
power and compass of voice: but for rich, soft, 
silvery, exquisite, inexpressible sweetness, the fair 
pupil of the Troy Female Academy, in my estima- 
tion, is without a superior. At least, I have never 
listened to melody more fascinating. 

Put this down -as a burst of enthusiasm. — It is, I 
assure you, an honest expression of feeling, enkin- 
dled by the entrancing music of the fair lady's voice. 
I never before experienced the full power of mu- 
sic. But enough of what I can but poorly express. 

Few women have laboured more arduously or 
more successfully in the cause of female education, 
than Mrs. Willard. Her zeal seems only to have 
been controlled by circumstances. Her plan of in- 
struction is before the public. It has received the 
approbation of some of the wisest men of Europe. 
Dr. Combe quotes it in his essay on education, with 
unqualified approbation. Her academy furnishes 
every year more than thirty teachers, who scatter 
over the remotest parts of the Union. Her efforts 
in the cause of education in the once classic Greece, 
are, I believe, pretty well known. Through her 
instrumentality, a school has been established at. 
Athens, " for the more especial purpose of instruct- 
ing female teachers." During one single quarter, 
as far back as 1833, twelve female teachers went 
out among the Georgians, the Carolinians, the 
4* 



42 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Michiganians, the Vermonters, New Yorkers, &c, 
prepared under her auspices for the noble purposes 
of education. The fact, that Mrs. Willard's insti- 
tution is applied to for teachers, induces young wo- 
men who desire to devote themselves to the busi- 
ness of instruction, to turn their eyes hither, not 
only as the place for preparation, but as the start- 
ing point for enterprise. A large portion of this 
class are of New England descent, from the mid- 
dling class of society: "They come to us," says 
Mrs. W., "with all that we could desire in the 
frame-work of their moral, intellectual, and phys- 
ical character. Thirsting for knowledge, physi- 
cally able to endure the labour of study, feeling the 
necessity of improving the time — they are pupils 
whom it is delightful to teach ; and the seed of in- 
struction, while we are yet sowing it, buds, springs 
forth, and blossoms before our eyes. Thus they 
cheer our labours, and they increase our reputation, 
by their decisive evidence of improvement. They 
go forth to do good to others, and they throw it 
back to us." But Mrs. Willard's pupils are not 
confined to the middling class. The daughters of 
the rich are with her, and many of them, she assures 
us, rank among the first in moral dignity and intel- 
lectual elevation. The management is purely repub- 
lican, and illustrates the beauty of that form of gov- 
ernment when directed by intelligence and energy. 



LETTER VI. 

Location and plan of Troy — Public Buildings — View from. 
Mount Ida — Original proprietor of the City — Historical 
notice — Religious Societies — Banks and Insurance Compa- 
nies — Water Works — Fountains — Washington Square— 
Lcgrand Cannon's Building — Causes of prosperity — Self' 
made men — Gov. Marcy an Attorney. 

Mansion House, Troy, Nov. 23, 1835. 

Dear P. — In my last, I briefly alluded to the 
location of Troy, as the head of navigation — as a 
place of great enterprise and public spirit — and gave 
a somewhat minute account of the Female Semi- 
nary. My present epistle will be chiefly confined 
to a brief historical sketch of the city, with perhaps 
an occasional digression. 

Troy then, to begin, is handsomely situated upon 
the east bank of the Hudson, and with a foresight 
seldom observed, is laid out with a view of its ulti- 
mately becoming a place of considerable magni- 
tude; and Philadelphia, the city of brotherly love, 
(with the exception of River street, whose course 
is guided by that of the river, and which, as it re- 
curves towards the east, receives the other streets 
running north and south, as well as those in the 
opposite direction,) with its regular squares and 
rectangular avenues, was selected as its model, by 



44 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

the advice of a gentleman, who had made a then 
rare visit to that celebrated city. In the course of 
a few years, stores and dwellings sprang up in 
abundance, principally in River and First streets. 
The stores indeed are now generally confined to 
River and Congress streets. Nearly all the busi- 
ness is transacted there. River street is, in fact, 
the Pearl, the Front, the Water street, and the 
Broadway of Troy. The stores in River street 
are very spacious, and extend nearly a mile and a 
half. The remainder of the city exhibits the tran- 
quil aspect and noiseless quiet seldom found but in 
the country. Many of the buildings, public and 
private, particularly those erected within the last 
five years, are spacious and elegant, while all dis- 
play a neatness and propriety of construction, une- 
qualled by those of any city of its size with which 
I am acquainted. The Court House, built of Sing 
Sing marble, is a splendid edifice after the Grecian 
model, perfectly chaste and classic in all its parts. 
The new Presbyterian Church, nearly completed, 
displays taste and liberality in its construction ; and 
St. Paul's (Episcopal) will vie with any Gothic edi- 
fice of its class in the United States. It w T as erect- 
ed some eight or nine years since. It is one hun- 
dred and three feet by seventy ; and the walls are 
of a dark coloured limestone, hammered and laid in 
mortar. At the west end of the building, a tower 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 45 

projects twelve feet, and is one hundred feet in 
height. There is a basement of nine feet, and the 
walls of the main building rise thirty-eight feet 
above it. The window over the altar is large, be- 
ing forty feet by twenty. On each side of the 
building there are five windows, and three on each 
end. The galleries and ceilings are supported by 
clustered columns; the wood work is painted in 
imitation of oak. The cost of the church and lot 
amounted to about $50,000. 

There are in Troy twelve places of public wor- 
ship — three Presbyterian, two Episcopal, one Qua- 
ker, two Methodist, one Scotch Presbyterian, one 
Roman Catholic, one Universalist, and an African 
Church, with a coloured preacher. One of the 
Methodist churches is of brick, and its architecture 
manifests good taste and judgment. 

East of the plain upon which Troy is built, and 
not more than a quarter of a mile from the river, 
Mount Ida rises abruptly to the height of three or 
four hundred feet, from whose summit every house 
and store may be seen with perfect distinctness, 
while the eye is likewise gratified by a very ex- 
tensive view, north and south, embracing nine 
locks at the junction of the great western and 
northern canals, Waterford, Lansingburgh, and Al- 
bany. 

The greater part of the land where the city of 



46 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Troy now stands, was formerly owned by three 
farmers, relatives, of the name of Vanderheyden. 
That which now forms the most compact part, con- 
taining nearly two thirds of its population, belong- 
ed to the late Jacob D. Vanderheyden, long and 
well known in this vicinity under the appellation 
of " the Patroon." Public worship was first per- 
formed here in a small school house in 1792. The 
place was for some time called Vanderheyden, un- 
til, with reluctance, the proprietors consented to 
change it for the more brief and classic name of 
Troy. It was incorporated as a village in 1801, 
with a population of near two thousand inhabitants. 
In 1810, it contained a population of three thousand 
eight hundred and ninety-five. The legislature in 
1816, granted it a charter, creating it a city, and 
vesting it with the usual powers and privileges of 
such corporations. In 1820, the population in- 
creased to five thousand two hundred and sixty- 
four; in 1825, to seven thousand eight hundred 
and sevemy-five, and in 1 829, to ten thousand eight 
hundred and forty. The present population is 
about eighteen thousand, showing an increase, du- 
ring five years, at the rate of 40 per cent., and more 
than half that of any equal time preceding. For 
this it is indebted, in part, to the opening of the 
Grand Canal, whose beneficent w r aters reached the 
JIudson in 1 824. Troy has reaped a liberal share 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 47 

of the boundless benefits diffused by that great un- 
dertaking, as it has opened her markets to the im- 
mense, the fertile regions of the west, from which 
they had been previously almost entirely excluded. 
The name of Clinton, the wise projector of this 
noble enterprise, should be had in everlasting re- 
membrance by the citizens of this justly styled "em- 
pire state." 

Two streams, affording immense water facilities, 
empty into the Hudson within the limits of the city, 
and one of them rolls down a beautiful cascade, 
about a mile from the Court House, well worth 
visiting as a curiosity. They already move the 
machinery of numerous mills and factories. 

There are four Banks, the Merchants and Me- 
chanics, Farmers, Troy City, and Bank of Troy, 
with an average capital of about $350,000 ; and 
two Insurance Companies, the Rensselaer and Sa- 
ratoga, and Troy. There is also one of those ex- 
cellent institutions — a Savings Bank. 

The city of Troy is abundantly supplied with 
excellent water from the neighbouring hills, at an 
expense of $150,000, on the Philadelphia plan, ex- 
cept, that in that city it is raised by artificial means, 
and in this by its natural head, being seventy-five feet 
above the level of the city. On the corner of every 
street there are hydrants, and a hose placed on 
these, sends the water up higher and with much 



48 LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 

greater force than a fire engine ; consequently, their 
use has been superseded. 

The squares and private gardens are ornamented 
with perpetual water fountains. There is one of 
Italian marble, chaste, classic, and of course, of 
beautiful construction, directly in front of the Man- 
sion House ; it sends up the water ten or fifteen 
feet, and in its descent resembles the weeping wil- 
low. The noise produced in the fall sounds like 
the continually pelting rain. Indeed, strangers, 
who put up at the Mansion House, not unfrequently, 
in passing the morning compliments with the affa- 
ble Doctor, allude to the last night's shower. 

Washington is one of the finest squares in the 
city. The Mansion House, belonging to Dr. 
Huddleston, facing the south, has quite an impo- 
sing appearance. On the east side, Legrand Can- 
non, Esq. a gentleman of enterprise and spirit, has 
nearly completed a block of stores that will vie 
with any I have ever seen in New York, Philadel- 
phia, or Boston. There are eight of them, four sto- 
ries high, with freestone fronts, making altogether 
a noble, business-like appearance. 

Troy is indebted for its wealth and population, 
to its advantageous situation for commercial pur- 
suits, and to the enterprise and economical habits 
of its citizens. Many, aye, most of the leading men 
in Troy, commenced life penniless. But industry, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 49 

energy, perseverance, and the smiles of that kind 
Providence, whose dews descend alike on all, have 
produced a mighty change. Three of the leading 
men in particular, nearly related to each other, 
came here in early life from one of the New Eng- 
land States, humble mechanics, and in time amassed 
princely fortunes. Two of them have departed this 
life, leaving their children an abundance of this 
world's goods, and the inheritance of a name, more 
valuable than gold. Their loss was deeply felt, and 
lamented by the whole population. The remain- 
ing individual stands high in the esteem of the citi- 
zens, and is at the head of several institutions. The 
present Ma }ror of Troy was once a day labourer — 
he is now one of the most wealthy and influential 
men of the city. These are but a few of the many 
examples of the kind, even in this city. The state 
is full of such instances. In a " Troy Post" of 
1822, I saw the other day the advertisement of 
W. L. Marcy, stating that he, in company with 
another individual, had taken an office, and would 
be happy to wait upon the public as attorneys at 
law. Step by step he has risen to the Chief Ma- 
gistracy of the " Empire State." But to return to 
the causes of prosperity in this city. The great 
Western and Northern Canals empty into the Hud- 
son directly opposite the centre of business, while 
she administers to an extensive country, east and 
5 



50 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

north, in the most minute articles of daily use by 
retail. With great natural facilities, and the in- 
vincible enterprise of the citizens, the prosperity of 
Troy must go on, increasing with a rapidity equal 
to that, at least, of the last ten years. 



LETTER VII. 

Revolutionary Reminiscences — Tree near the Academy— Ex- 
ecution of Strang and Palmer — Gen. Putnam's memora- 
ble Letter — Circumstances which led to the capture of Major 
Andre— Vignette on the bills of Westchester Bank, fyc. 

Peekskill, December 4th, 1835. 

Dear P. — In September, while on a visit to this 
place, I gave a few rambling- sketches of men and 
things. Among- other matters, I alluded to the 
Academy, and its beautiful and commanding loca- 
tion; gave the inscription from Paulding's monu- 
ment, etc., but neglected noticing the many inter- 
esting revolutionary associations connected with 
the place. Now as every thing relating to the re- 
volution, that resulted in the establishment of our 
Independence, possesses an interest entitling it to 
attention, I cannot, while on the very spot so 
fraught with these reminiscences, forego the plea- 
sure of alluding to what can never become dull to 
the ear of patriotic Americans. 

But two miles from the village stands the dwell- 
ing occupied by Washington, while the American 
army were encamped in this place. The majestic 
tree near the Academy, on which Strang was hang- 
ed for some misdemeanour, still remains ; and here. 



52 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

too is the place where Palmer, the American tory, 
was executed, by order of Gen. Putnam, whose 
memorable reply to Gov. Tryson, who wrote for 
his release, threatening vengeance if he were ex- 
ecuted, deserves an enduring record. It briefly — 
emphatically unfolds the true character of that dis- 
tinguished hero. The note runs thus : — 

"Sir — Nathan Palmer, a lieutenant in your 
service, was taken in my camp as a spy ; he was 
condemned as a spy ; and you may rest assured, sir, 
he shall be hanged as a spy. I have the honour 
to be, &c. 

" Israel Putnam. 

" P. S. — Afternoon. He is hanged." 

Not the threats of the British Governor, or the 
entreaties of Palmer's wife, could change the pur- 
pose of the determined General. I am informed 
by an old inhabitant of Peekskill, that the man 
who led Palmer to the gallows afterwards married 
his widow, and that a child of this union still 
survives. 

I have before alluded to the capture of Andre, 
by Paulding and his associates; but there is a tra- 
ditionary circumstance, which occurred in Peeks- 
kill, or rather in Courtland, of which Peekskill is 
the principal village, that placed Major Andre in 
the path of the captors. For the facts connected 
with this tradition, I am indebted to R. E. Ward, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 53 

Esq. It seems that in the autumn of 1780, a far- 
mer of this village was making- cider, having been 
for a few days released from his country's service 
to follow his agricultural pursuits. The mill in 
which he was at work was situated on the east 
bank of the Hudson, near that part of Haverstraw 
bay, called "Mother's Lap." While busily em- 
ployed in the manufacture of his cider, two young 
men (Sherwood and Peterson) with their muskets, 
(the usual accompaniment in those days,) approached 
the farmer, and after passing the usual salutations, 
and refreshing themselves with the new cider, seated 
themselves upon a log that lay near the mill. 

The farmer observing them in close conversation, 
and looking very intently on some distant object, 
asked them the cause of their alarm and anxiety. 

" Hush," speaking low, says Sherwood, "the red 
coats are about us." 

"Where?" asked the farmer, in a whisper. 

" Yonder, yonder, just within the Lap," answers 
Peterson, pointing at the same time to a spot where 
was an English gun-boat, with twenty-four men 
laying upon their oars. " Return to your mill,'' 
he added ; and addressing himself to Sherwood, ■' we 
will crawl to the bank of the river, and give the red 
boys a shot." 

Peterson and Sherwood drew near the margin of 
the Hudson, and placed themselves behind a large 



54 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

rock, which was directly between them and the 
gun-boat. Here, after reconnoitring the situation 
of the gun-boat, and examining their guns, they 
fired upon the crew, and killed two persons. The 
soldiers that manned the gun-boat belonged to tho 
British sloop of war Vulture, which lay at anchor 
in the Hudson, off Teller's Point. Not expecting 
to meet with the enemy, they had prepared them- 
selves with no weapons of attack or defence, except 
a blunderbuss. This they hastily fired towards the 
shore, but without giving it any particular direc- 
tion, and of course, without producing any effect. 
Quickly perceiving that all their efforts to defend 
themselves must be unavailing, as they were con- 
tending with a hidden foe, they put their boat about 
as speedily as possible, and proceeded towards the 
Vulture, presuming that its heavy arms would 
secure to them a far better protection from rebel out- 
rage, than their own small blunderbuss. In pro- 
ceeding back to the Vulture, they kept a proper 
distance from the shore, for the purpose of evading 
all further annoyance from the rebel muskets. 
The retreat was made good, and as the sun was just 
losing himself behind the towering mountains that 
border the Hudson in the vicinity of Haverstraw 
bay, the disappointed sailors might have been seen 
lifting themselves up the side of the Vulture. 
Peterson and Sherwood remained in their place 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 55 

of concealment, until some time after the crew of 
the gun-boat had reached their vessel, expecting 
that a reinforcement might probably be sent on 
shore to reconnoitre. But no movement of the 
kind was made, and they abandoned the rock, and 
rejoined the old farmer at the mill. 

" What luck with the red coats ?" inquires the 
farmer, hastily. 

" Good luck and bad luck? if it is a possible thing," 
replies Peterson. 

"How can that be?" says the farmer. "Easy 
enough," answers Peterson. "We had the good 
luck to come off unhurt, and the bad luck to kill 
two of the sailors in the gun-boat, whose only 
crime was being engaged in arms against us." 

While Sherwood and Peterson were informing 
the farmer of the result of the skirmish, a man was 
observed coming down the east bank of the river, 
just below Collabergh landing, and cautiouslv ex- 
amining every thing around him. The stranger 
had gained the spot nearly opposite where the gun- 
boat had been stationed, before he observed the men 
at the mill ; upon discovering them, he retraced his 
steps for a few rods, and took an easterly course 
towards Croton River. That man was no less a 
personage than Major Andre, bearing the traitor 
Arnold's despatches to the British General. The 
gun-boat was to have received him at the point 



56 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

where it had been stationed, and conveyed him in 
safety on board the Vulture. The Vulture was to 
have conveyed him and his despatches to New 
York. He had conferred with the traitor the even- 
ing previous, a few miles below West Point, justly 
considered as the key of the Hudson. After all the 
necessary and proper arrangements had been made 
between the traitor and the spy, they separated, the 
one for his camp, and the other for the Vulture. 
The course of the latter lay along the west bank of 
the Hudson, about three miles below Caldwell's 
landing, and opposite Verplank's Point. At that 
place he crossed the river, and followed its course 
until he arrived at the particular spot in "the Lap," 
where the gun-boat had been stationed to receive 
him. Having heard the firing, and perceiving that 
the gun-boat had been forced or frightened from the 
place of assignation, he was compelled to alter his 
course, and proceed towards the interior of the 
county of Westchester. About eleven o'clock on 
the evening of that day, he found himself approach- 
ing Crumpond. At that place he remained through 
the night with a Mr. Smith. Early on the morn 
of the ensuing day, having procured a horse, he 
started for New York, determining to travel the 
distance by land. He crossed the Croton river at 
Pinesbridge, and at the time of his capture, was 
passing the Bcekman woods, the largest forest in 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 57 

Westchester county, and adjacent to the old Dutch 
Church alluded to in my letter about Tarrytown. 
So you will perceive, friend P., that West Point 
owed its safety in part to those who were instrumen- 
tal in putting the Spy in the way of being captur- 
ed ; and while therefore the proper meed of praise 
is awarded to Paulding, Williams, and Van Wart, 
and monuments erected to their memory for the 
agency they had in the capture, the part acted by 
Sherwood and Peterson, and the agency they had 
in enabling the capture to take place, should not 
remain " unhonoured and unsung." 

By the way, on the bills of the " Westchester 
Bank," established in Peekskill about two years 
since, there is a beautiful vignette picture, repre- 
senting the arrest of poor Andre. He is in the act 
of supplicating his captors to let him escape ; the 
discovered papers are in the hands of one of them, 
and the stern eyes of the others evince the deter- 
mination to listen to no suggestions but those of 
patriotism. The form and features of Andre are 
admirably depicted — a miniature hangs in his bo- 
som, exquisitely finished. The worthy editor of 
the " Westchester and Putnam Republican," printed 
in this village, has furnished me with some stanzas, 
suggested by the vignette I have above described, 
and with them I conclude this epistle, as I leave here 
to-day in the good steamer Union, for the city. 



58 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Before their country's foe they stand, 

Each with a stern and searching eye ; 
Grasped with a firm and honest hand, 

The hostile records open lie : 
They read, and as each noble brow 

Wears the quiet shadow of resolve, 
The true and just exhibit now 

The secret which they dared to solve. 

Away with gold! it has no power 

To turn the true heart from its quest; 
The ordeal of this solemn hour 

Gives firmness to the patriot's breast : 
And as the tempter's art is tried, 

He finds each supplication vain ; 
The weary prisoner turns aside, 

To hide his labouring bosom's pain. 

Tumultuous thoughts upon his mind 

In quick succession wildly crowd, 
As urged by the resistless wind, 

Spreads o'er the sky the tempest's cloud; 
Why bends his sad and languid glance 

Where, near his heart, that picture lies, 
Affection's fond inheritance, 

With sunny smile, and loving eyes ! 

Alas ! upon that face no more 

The eager gaze of hope can turn, 
The dream of early love is o'er, 

And ne'er again its fires will burn ; 
A shade is gathering o'er each tress, 

A gloom is lingering on the brow, 
And all its budding loveliness 

Is stained with tears of anguish now. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 59 

Brave, yet devoted! On thy head 

The bolt, by others forged, shall fall; 
And history on thy name shall shed 

Of fate, the wormwood and the gall ! 
Yet wert thou noble— and thy soul 

The battle and the storm withstood, 
Till bending to a stern control, 

'Twas by a traitor's lure subdued. 

Peace to thy shade, ill fated one ! 

Though in the abbey's lengthened aisle, 
Scarce lit by day's meridian sun, 

Thy marble bust may sadly smile, , , 

Yet is there darkness on thy name, , 

Though gentle pity mourns for thee, 
While patriots bless the holy flame 

Which kept thy captor's spirit free. ..,«.. 

Yours, &c. 



LETTER VIII. 

Origin of " Sing Sing"— Statistics— Description of Sing 
Sing Prison— The Chaplain— System of Discipline— The 
Lynd System— Folger and Matthias'— Mount Pleasant 
Academy— Franklin Academy— The Newspaper— Public 
House, &c. 

Sing Sing, Mount Pleasant, Feb. 6, 1836. 

Dear P. — " Sing Sing" is the principal village 
of the town of " Mount Pleasant," and is situated 34 
miles north of New York, on the east side of the 
Hudson river. The name is derived from the Chi- 
nese, Tsing Sing, the title of a celebrated governor 
in China, of a city so called. It is said to be 
brought to this country by a Dutch settler who had 
traded with China. The whole town, the largest 
in point of population in Westchester county, con- 
tains by the state census of 1835, four thousand 
seven hundred and fifty-eight souls, and more fe- 
males than males by one hundred and twenty-eight. 

~\There are, it also appears, in this town, three hun- 
dred and ninety-eight soldiers, nine hundred and 
seventy-three voters, forty-nine aliens, one hundred 
and twenty-four natural abolitionists, or to speak 

- more significantly, people of colour ; five hundred 
and sixty-seven married females under the age of 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 61 

45 ; four hundred and thirty unmarried females be- 
tween 16 and 45; and one thousand and sixty-nine 
unmarried females under 16. The township con- 
sists of 23,605 acres of land, the largest number of 
21 towns in the county, except Cortlandt, which 
contains 33.315 acres. So much for statistics. Sing 
Sing is pleasantly situated on an elevation gradu- 
ally rising from the river to the height of 300 or 
400 feet. The principal object of interest or cu- 
riosity here is the State Prison. Through the 
courtesy of R. Wiltse, Esq. the agent, and Col. 
Sing, I visited the various departments, and was 
much gratified with the neatness, order, and regu- 
larity which prevailed in the several shops and 
workhouses. 

The prison is situated on the east margin of the 
Hudson river, ten feet above high water mark. — 
The prison grounds contain one hundred and thir- 
ty acres, and may be approached by vessels draw- 
ing twelve feet of water. The prison-keeper's 
house, workshop, &c, are built of rough dressed 
stone, or " Sing Sing marble." The prison is four 
hundred and eighty-four feet in length, running 
north and south, (parallel with the river,) and forty- 
four feet in width, fronting westerly on the Hudson 
river, and communicating with the west yard by 
two doors, which open at the extreme north and 
south ends of the prison. The w r est yarjl is enclos- 
6 



62 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON". 

ed by two buildings forty feet wide and two stories 
high, which are occupied as the kitchen, hospital, 
chapel, workshops, storehouses, &c. ; these build- 
ings extend from the prison westerly to the edge 
of the dock ; the south wing adjoins the prison, but 
has no communication but from the hospital. The 
north wing is connected with the prison by a wall 
twenty feet in height, running north and south ten 
feet, thus enclosing an area of four hundred and 
ninety-four by four hundred and twelve feet. This 
yard communicates with the east yard of the prison, 
which is enclosed, by an open arch-way through 
the centre of the prison, and an arched gate-way 
through the wall at the north end. There is no 
door leading from the prison into the east yard. In 
the centre of the west yard is a range of shops forty 
feet wide, fronting on the Hudson, and running 
parallel with the prison two hundred and seventy- 
six feet, having wings which extend easterly to- 
wards the prison one hundred and forty feet, 
occupied as stone shops. The guard house is on 
the bank, on the east side of the prison, about 170 
feet above the level of the yard, and commands a 
perfect view of the east yard, and most of the west. 
The prison is five stories high. There are two 
hundred cells on each floor, in all one thousand. 
There are at this time about seven hundred and 
eighty prisoners, and not more than ten or twelve 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, 63 

sick in the hospital. The largest number in this 
prison at one time, the keeper informed me, was 
nine hundred and forty. 

The present chaplain of the institution, the Rev. 
Jonathan Dickinson, of the Presbyterian order, 
has the reputation of being- well qualified for the 
purpose of imparting religious instruction, and im- 
pressing upon the minds of the convicts the duty 
they owe to their God and to society. And if any 
situation in which men could be placed, who have 
discarded every virtuous principle, is calculated to 
soften the heart and render them susceptible of re- 
ligious reformation, it is when confined to the soli- 
tude of their cells, where they cannot escape the 
reproof of their own reflections, and where their 
duties as men and Christians are clearly pointed 
out by their religious teacher. Mr. Dickinson re- 
marked to me that he never preached the gospel 
with more pleasure than he had here, nor indeed 
with equal interest. Here men in general have 
not been in the habit of hearing it; it therefore 
comes to them with the advantages of novelty ; and 
their peculiar condition helps and even urges them 
to its consideration. I found the chaplain a very 
affable, humane, and intelligent gentleman. He 
politely favoured me with a glance at his unpub- 
lished report to the inspectors of the prison. " From 
what I have been led to observe," says Mr. D. "it 



64 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

seems to me that while there is no absolute security 
in education against crime, yet it must be admitted 
that it imposes a certain amount of restraint on the 
predominant passions and propensities, which, 
though broken through in some instances, remains 
useful afterward as a means of throwing light up- 
on the darkness of a person's criminal course, and 
when brought into this state for reflection, he is the 
better able to see and to weigh the follies of his 
life." Several instances have come under Mr. D.'s 
observation, where men had prostituted the privi- 
lege of early pious education ; but at this distant 
day, after a series of transgressions, its early influ- 
ences seem to have arisen from a long sleep, and 
are now in this secluded state exerting a most salu- 
tary, reclaiming effect. 

The system and discipline of the Sing Sing 
Prison at the present time owe their origin to Elam 
Lynds, for many years the agent of the Auburn 
prison. His system combines solitude and the ad- 
vantages of profitable employment. The convicts 
are shut up in separate cells at night, and on Sun- 
days except when attending religious exercises in 
the chapel. While at work, the prisoners are not 
allowed to exchange a word with each other under 
any pretence whatever, nor to communicate any 
intelligence to each other in writing; not to ex- 
change looks, winks, laugh, or motion, with each 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 65 

other, nor make use of any signs, except such as are 
necessary to convey their wants to the waiters.* 
This system was established at Auburn in 1824. 
Capt. Lynds assembled the convicts together, and 
giving the rules by which their conduct must be 
governed, told them they must henceforth labour 
diligently, and in perfect silence; that for every 
infringement of the rules which he had then giv- 
en them, severe corporeal chastisement should be 
inflicted. The convicts were at first inclined to 
receive this as a mere threat, bat they were soon con- 
vinced, from the energy of will and firmness of 
character exhibited by Captain Lynds at this cri- 
sis, that submission was inevitable. 

The adoption of this system of confining each 
convict in a separate cell at night, rendered the 
Auburn prison (which at this time, 1824, contained 
but five hundred and fifty cells) insufficient to ac- 
commodate all the convicts in the state. An act 
was therefore passed by the Legislature, author- 
izing the erection of a new prison. Sing Sing was 
selected as the location, and Captain Lynds as the 
agent to build and conduct it. He was directed to 
take from the Auburn prison one hundred convicts, 
to remove them to the ground selected for the site 
of the new prison, to purchase materials, employ 
keepers and guards, and commence the construc- 
tion of the prison. The reasons for taking the 
6 # 



66 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

convicts from Auburn, and transporting them SO 
great a distance, instead of from New York, were, 
that the convicts at Auburn had been more accus- 
tomed to cutting and laying stone, and had been 
brought by Capt. Lynds into the perfect and regu- 
lar state of discipline he had established at Auburn, 
and which was justly deemed indispensably neces- 
sary to their safe keeping in the open country, and 
the successful prosecution of the work. 

The Auburn prisoners arrived at Sing Sing 
without accident or disturbance in May, 1825, with- 
out a place to receive or a wall to enclose them. 
On the same day a temporary barrack was erected 
to receive the convicts at night; they were then 
set at work, building the prison, making of each 
one a carpenter, mason, &c. and having no other 
means to keep them in obedience but the rigid en- 
forcement of discipline by Capt. Lynds. During 
several years, the convicts, whose numbers were 
gradually increased, were engaged in building their 
own prison, and finally completed it in 1829. It 
then contained eight hundred cells. In 1831, an- 
other story was added, and the number of cells in- 
creased to one thousand. 

What a commentary this on the Lynd system! 
That it has a tendency to restrain crime, will be 
seen by the following statistics, given in one of the 
reports of the prison. In 1831, 199 convicts were 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, 67 

received; in 1832, 188; in 1833, 151— total, 538, 
which shows a gradual decrease in three years, 
notwithstanding the great increase of population. 

Thus much for the Sing Sing prison. Mount 
Pleasant, you know, is famous as being the scene 
of Matthias' impositions. Folger and his wife still 
reside in the village. He is a gentleman in his 
appearance and manners, and apparently not more 
than thirty-two or thirty-three years of age. They 
hope to live down the prejudices which have been 
created against them by their connexion with that 
fiend in human shape — Matthias, 

The Mount Pleasant Academy, under the su- 
perintendence of Albert Wells, Esq. is in a flour- 
ishing and prosperous condition. The academy 
edifice is a spacious building of Sing Sing marble, 
sixty by eighty feet, three stories high, standing on 
a lot of four acres, delightfully shaded with fruit 
trees, on one of the most retired streets of the vil- 
lage, commanding too an extensive prospect of the 
river and adjacent country. In its internal arrange- 
ment, there is every desirable convenience for the 
principal's family and instructors, and the several 
departments of the school. The remarkable healthi- 
ness of the place, the beauty of the scenery, and the 
facility of communication with both city and coun- 
try, conspire to render this one of the most delight- 
ful retreats for a literary institution. This academy 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



is under the direction of the " Regents." Boys are 
boarded and educated for $150 per annum. A fe- 
male' seminary is about to be erected here on a lib- 
eral and extensive plan. 

The Franklin Academy, a boarding school for 
young ladies in this village, is in high repute. It 
is under the management of Mr. and Mrs. Bleeker. 
There are seventy-five young ladies who board in 
the family, and receive instruction in the solid and 
ornamental branches. There is also a male de- 
partment, entirely unconnected as to location, in 
which about eighty young gentlemen are instructed 
in the various branches of English and classical 
education. 

There are on Mount Pleasant a Presbyterian, an 
Episcopal, a Baptist, and a Methodist church. One 
newspaper, the " Westchester Herald," conducted 
with considerable ability by a Mr. Roscoe. In re- 
gard to public houses, I can only say that the best 
is now, and has been for the last thirteen years, 
kept by Mr. E. Crosby, a son of him of "Spy" 
memory, where may be obtained very comfortable 
accommodations. But I have not yet found in my 
travels, the house that will compare with your 
"American" and your " New England." Brigham 
and Gould of the former, and Coleman of the latter, 
are my beau ideal of publicans. 



LETTER IX, 

Views of the Hudson— Historical Items— The Hudson a Lake 
— The old man's story. 

New York, March 10, 1836. 

Friend P. — The congealed waters of the Hud- 
son at this season of the year, totally exclude my 
ramblings, and 1 must content myself with the re- 
collections of past journey ings and the reminiscences 
of other writers. Yes, I must draw in part upon the 
resources of abler pens, for facts wherewith to fill 
up my attempted illustrations of the noble North. 

Disturnell of this city, has you know, com- 
menced a series of views from original drawings, 
under the cognomen of " Picturesque Beauties of 
the Hudson River and its vicinity ;" and Samuel 
L. Knapp, Esq. has undertaken to give historical 
and descriptive illustrations. Two numbers have 
already appeared, and should adequate encourage- 
ment be afforded, it is the publisher's intention to 
issue a number every two months. Each number 
contains three splendid engravings on steel; and 
the letter-press illustrations, though brie£ are credit 
able to the taste and genius of the author. The 
vignette in the title page, presenting a view of the 
Palisades, is exquisite — decidedly the best in the 



70 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

number. The Danube or Rhine, does not furnish 
more beautiful or picturesque views than our own 
beautiful Hudson ; and the illustration of these 
beauties are worthy of the efforts of our most gifted 
painters, poets, and historians. The name of Henry 
Hudson, the discoverer of the noble river which 
bears his name, and " who is identified with its his- 
tory," will be had in remembrance while its smooth 
waters roll on to the ocean's depth. — Hudson, says 
Col. Knapp, was the friend of Capt. John Smith, 
of Pocahontas memory. He entered the southern 
waters of New York on the 3d of September, 1609, 
and was the first navigator who visited them. Tra- 
dition says, that he landed at Long Island and 
traded with the natives. He next discovered the 
mouth of the river which has ever since been called 
by his name. He spent a week south of the Nar- 
rows, before he entered the bay, watching the na- 
tives, but at the same time holding a friendly traffic 
with them. He was not then aware, that the pres- 
ent site of the city and county of New York was 
an island. On the 14th, he proceeded through Tap- 
pan and Haverstraw bays, and anchored during 
the night near West Point. At times, Hudson and 
his men amused themselves in catching fish, which 
were found in abundance in the river, and of a fine 
flavour. The natives appeared more mild and so- 
cial than those he encountered while entering the 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 71 

river. On the 16th, he anchored at a place which 
now bears his name, Hudson. It is not certain 
how much further up he sailed. Antiquarians be- 
lieve that he reached Albany, and that some of his 
men in boats proceeded still further, to the conflu- 
ence of the Mohawk and Hudson riVers. His ves- 
sel was very small for such an exploring voyage, 
a mere "jly boat" as some lave called her, not 
larger than a small sloop used for the coasting 
traffic at the present t?me. Hudson's ship was 
called the Half Moon and rf not made for comfort, 
was better calculaied for running into bays and 
harbours than larger boats. 

It is the opinion of some, that the Hudson was 
originally a lake. Mrs. Phelps, late Vice Princi- 
pal of the Troy Female Seminary, in her " Female 
Student," an excellent series of lectures delivered 
before the young ladies of that institution, expresses 
a similar opinion. She thinks it impossible to pro- 
nounce with certainty respecting the changes which 
may have taken place in the region watered by the 
Hudson and its branches ; but that while passing 
down its current, and observing the adjacent coun- 
try on each side, she has been strongly impressed 
with the belief, that the valley of this river was 
once a vast lake connected with the lakes on our 
northern border ; that the highlands and palisades 
Were the southern boundary of this lake. The 



72 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

waters forcibly operating upon these barriers might, 
by degrees, have worn them away, until opening 
for itself a passage, this mighty mass rushed on- 
ward to the ocean. This, however, is mere hy- 
pothesis. She seems inclined to the opinion, that 
the region abcnt Troy was once covered with wa- 
ter, and that Mount Ida and Mount Olympus were 
islands in this great lake. About two miles from 
Troy, on the east, there is a beautiful valley; — 
by following its course, you will find it winding 
its way toward the Hudson, resembling, in appear- 
ance, the bed of a river whose channel has beers 
turned, or whose waters are dried up. 

On the west side of the Hudson there is a sin- 
gular ravine, often called the Dry River ; this, in- 
stead of sloping banks like the beautiful -rale on the 
eastern side, has abrupt and rugged shores, and 
a rocky, uneven bed : a little rill yet lingers among 
the rocks, convincing us, if farther evidence were 
necessary, that there has been a noble arm of the 
Hudson. Although on the eastern side, the vale 
of which Mrs. Phelps has spoken, bears less incon- 
testable marks of its having been the bed: of a river r 
there is but little doubt, that too was covered with- 
water tributary to the large river. Referring then; 
to the supposition, that the Hudson river is but the 
remains of a great lake, which suddenly discharged^ 
its waters into the Atlantic, we might suppose that 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 73 

when this event took place, many rivers were form- 
ed by the inequalities of the surface, and that these 
rivers in time have changed their channels, or 
gradually subsided into dry land. 

But a truce to geographical speculations about 
the changes of the " Hudson and its vicinity ;" and 
now for an interesting revolutionary reminiscence, 
related to me by a gentleman who some time since 
visited your state. He put up at a house in Green- 
field, and during the evening, while he sat in the 
bar room, heard a sensible old man relate the sub- 
stance of what follows. On retiring to his room, 
he sat down and made a transcript ; and gave it to 
the editor of the Greenfield Mercury, with whom 
he was acquainted. But for the " Old Man's story." 

" During the revolutionary war," said he, "there 
Was a point of land on the Jersey side of the Hud- 
son River, and not far distant from New York, 
which was the scene of a bloody conflict. There 
were about three hundred acres next to the river, 
from which the wood and timber had been cleared 
off; back of this was a heavy forest. On this ele- 
vated point, a large number of fat cattle, destined to 
supply the American army, were placed. Four 
or five miles distant, in New Jersey, there were 
three thousand light infantry, under the command 
of Lafayette. I was one of that detachment. Our 
business was to see that the cattle were not taken 
7 



74 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

from the point by the enemy. One morning, in- 
telligence was brought into the camp, that several 
vessels had approached the point, and that a large 
body of British soldiers were landing. My regi- 
ment was ordered to march immediately for the 
Point. Rufus Putnam, a nephew of the old Gene- 
ral, was our Colonel. He was well stocked with 
the Putnam mettle. He was a brave officer. I 
could never discern that he was not just as cool 
and self-possessed when going into battle as when 
sitting in his tent. We made a hurried march, and 
upon approaching the edge of the woods, the Col- 
onel ordered the Adjutant to go forward and see 
where the troops were, and what was their num- 
ber. The Adjutant soon returned, and reported they 
were forming upon the shore in three columns, and 
he should think the columns contained about one 
thousand each. 'Then,' said the Colonel, 'ride 
back to the camp as quickly as possible, and tell 
Lafayette to come on.' When the Adjutant had 
gone, Col. Putnam rode up to my Captain, who 
was Daniel Shays, of insurrection memory, and, 
said he, ' well, Capt. Shays, shall we be playing 
with them until the General comes V ' That must 
be as you please,' replied Capt. Shays. 

" Orders were soon given to advance to the open 
land upon the point. We now stood face to face 
with our foes. Firing very soon commenced. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 75 

Cannon from the shipping in the river poured forth 
their volleys ; and small-arms did fatal execution. 
Col. Putnam rode back and forth in front of the 
regiment, as calm as a man at home, though the 
balls were whistling past him in every direction. 
We worked very fast, and for one regiment made 
a great noise. The corporal at my right hand, 
received a ball through the body, and fell, dying. 
I was young, and a dying man at my feet, bleeding 
and gasping, might perhaps cause my colour to fade 
a little. Capt. Shays stepped forward — ' George, 
said he, 'never mind it, I will take his place; 
and he was as good as his word ; he took the cor 
poral's gun and used it. Shays was the best Cap 
tain I ever served under. He was bold and kind 
I will give him his due, though he has done un 
worthily since ; we stood shoulder to shoulder in 
that day of peril. I was loading my gun the twenty- 
second time, when General Lafayette, with the 
main body of the light infantry, issued from the 
wood. Never shall I forget the feeling of that mo- 
ment. Wellington was hardly more pleased to see 
Blucher in the battle of Waterloo, than we were to 
see our brother in arms. The main body formed 
at once, upon our left. Lafayette rode forward, 
(an elegant officer, and never did he fill my eye so 
entirely as at that moment;) though a mere strip- 
ling in appearance, in action he was a man — and 



76 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

had Cornwallis seen him as we then saw him, he 
would not have called him ' the boy.' As he ap- 
proached, ' Col. Putnam,' said he, * how dared 
you fire before I arrived V • Oh,' said the Col- 
onel, ' I thought I would be playing with them a 
little.' Lafayette at that moment seemed full of 
energy and fire — turning towards the line, and 
with a loud and distinct voice, marked by his 
French accent — said he, 'We fire no more — the 
whole line charge bayonets — rush onward, and 
drive them, where the devil drove the hogs.' The 
effect of his presence and his words was astonish- 
ing ; every heart beat quick and full. We did 
rush on, and such a scene of carnage my eyes 
never saw. At first the British force charged to 
meet us, but they could not stand against us, and 
fled from the shore ; we followed them, and drove 
them in the water; of the three thousand, about 
fifteen hundred got aboard the vessels. The rest 
were slain, and most of them at the point of the 
bayonet. 

" I have described to you the most painfully in- 
teresting and horrid scene which I had ever wit- 
nessed. I never enjoyed killing men. I fought 
because I thought it to be my duty." 

Yours, &c. 



LETTER X. 

(Vie Travellers' Home — Mansion House, and its new "pro- 
prietor— Troy House— Washington Hall— Apology— The 
Rail Road Cars — Description of Troy Bridge, etc. — 
Route to Balston and Saratoga Springs — Revolutionary 
Reminiscence — Battle at Bemis' Heights — Distance to 
Balston — " Sans Souci" — Balston — Return to Troy — 
Henry Burden — His residence — His genius, etc. — Reading 
Room, Troy — West Troy — Its business — JVT'Adamized 
road to Albany — Stages, etc. 

Mansion House, Troy, May 11, 1836. 

Friend P. — There was an old fashioned virtue, 
called hospitality — of which we have still extant 
some records in the history of the patriarchs, and 
recent traditions of its existence in some later gen- 
erations. Perhaps there is yet a by-corner of the 
world, where traces may be found of it, and cer- 
tainly there is still extant a command to exercise it. 
" Be not forgetful to entertain strangers; for thereby 
some have entertained angels unawares." 

The discontinuance of this virtue, must be as- 
cribed to the numerous artificial wants, created 
partly by the whims of fashion, and partly by the 
regular progress of society — increasing the ex- 
pense of good house-keeping. We cannot welcome 
a guest, but at the sacrifice of some money, or time, 
7* 



78 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

or pride — and, therefore, we close the door, and 
deny the obligation to open it. 

Fortunately for the stranger, the same march of 
civilization has prepared another home, whose doors 
are always open to all who can pay for the enter- 
tainment. Many, even amidst the unpaid for cour- 
tesies of a private dwelling, sigh for the liberty and 
comfort of that "travellers' home." How often 
has the truth of these lines been felt, by every way 
faring man who has read them : — 

" Whoe'er has travell'd life's dull round, 
Where'er his changes may have been, 
Must sigh to think, how oft he's found 
The kindest welcome at an inn." 

But prosing and poetry aside. The " Mansion 
House," so deservedly popular under the adminis- 
tration of Dr. Huddleston, has become the very ne 
plus ultra, of " inns," since it passed into the hands 
of Mr. Henry Hull, long and favourably known 
by the bon tons who have for the last ten or twelve 
years resorted to the medicinal " Springs of Leba- 
non" for health, or fashionable recreation. Mr. H. 
possesses in an "eminent degree" all the requisites 
of a good publican. Affable, courteous, and intel- 
ligent, with twenty years' experience, he never fails 
to render his guests easy, comfortable, and happy. 
In a word, the whole tout ensemble of his establish- 
ment is just what it should be. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 79 

There are several other very good houses in 
Troy. The Troy House, by Mr. Kidd, is pleas- 
antly situated, and is favourably spoken of by those 
who have visited it. 

Washington Hall, by Messrs. E. & P. Dorlon, is 
also an excellent house. The building is spacious, 
the table well supplied, and the beds comfortable ; 
and what is of importance to many, the prices are 
moderate. 

To the traveller for business, and especially for 
pleasure, the character of a hotel is of paramount 
importance. It is, in fact, one of the " little things" 
on which the comfort and pleasure of his journey 
depends. This, therefore, must be my apology for 
saying so much about " inns and innholders." 

Yesterday, I took a seat in one of the passage 
cars, on the new rail road, for Balston. The road 
now extends to Saratoga, and will, I venture to pre- 
dict, become the most fashionable route, as indeed 
it is the most interesting, to the " Springs." The 
arrangements for carrying passengers are quite ex- 
tensive. There are twenty-four cars belonging to 
the company — at once spacious, elegant, and con- 
venient. They are twenty-four feet in length by 
eight in breadth, and sufficiently high within for 
the passengers to stand erect, the whole divided 
into three apartments ; the seats of which are cush- 
ioned and backed with crimson morocco, trimmed 



80 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

with coach lace ; each apartment is surrounded by 
moveable panels, thus affording the comforts and 
facilities of either a close or open carriage, to suit 
the convenience of the passengers. The outside 
of the cars is painted of a beautiful fawn colour, 
with buff shading, painted in "picture panels," 
with rose, pink, and gold borders, and deep lake 
shading; the small mouldings of delicate stripes of 
vermilion and opaque black. Within the panels 
are " transferred" some of the most splendid pro- 
ductions of the ancient and modern masters, among 
which are copies from " Leonardo da Vinci," "Ho- 
race Vernet," " David," (the celebrated painter to 
Napoleon,) " Stuart," and many more of the mod- 
ern school. The whole number of the subjects of 
the twenty-four cars, cannot fall far short of two 
hundred, as each car averages from six to ten 
subjects : among which may be enumerated, sev- 
eral copies from the antique, Napoleon crossing the 
Alps, the two splendid scenes in Byron's Mazeppa, 
the Hospital Mount St. Bernard, portraits of most 
of the distinguished men of our own country, among 
whom Washington (from Stuart's original) stands 
conspicuous, the wounded tiger, the avalanche, 
portraits of distinguished women, views of several 
of our popular steamboats, the rail road bridge 
near Philadelphia, and several views in the south. 
The "lout ensemble" is more like a moveable gal- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 81 

lery of the fine arts, than like a train of rail road 
cars. The springs of the cars are of Philadelphia 
make, and bear evenly. The "journals" are on a 
new plan, obviating* all previous objections. The 
wheels are of cast iron, with patent rolled i>'on tire, 
well annealed and wrought, being put on the cart 
wheel while hot. The cooling of the tire, and the 
contraction of the iron, render it impossible to de- 
viate from its place. The whole is then turned in 
a steam lathe by machine tools, thus rendering the 
circle of the wheel perfect from its centre, which is 
a great desideratum. 

The cars were made in Troy by those famous 
coach builders, Gilbert, Veazie and Eaton, aided 
by Mr. Starbuck, a scientific machinist. Connected 
with the cars are two beautiful locomotives called 
the " Erie" and the " Champlain." 

The rail road bridge, over which the cars cross 
the Hudson from Troy to Green Island, on their 
route to the Springs, is certainly a noble, substan- 
tial specimen of this kind of architecture. It is one 
thousand five hundred and twelve feet in length, 
thirty-four feet in width, and seventeen feet to the 
eaves. It is supported by stone abutments and 
piers. The sides are double lattice work, covered 
with boards on the outside. The floors of plank, 
and the roof shingled. It has thirty-two sky-lights 
or scuttles. The roof is supported in the centre 



82 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

by a tier of pillars. The draw on the east end is one 
hundred and four feet long, twenty-four feet wide, 
and ten feet high. The side draw is fifty-two feet 
long and twenty-four feet wide. A cast iron pipe 
for conveying water from the main pipe of the 
Troy Water Works Co. extends along under the 
roof, the whole length of the bridge. It has six- 
teen hydrants, one being placed at every other sky- 
light. After crossing this bridge, before reaching 
the village of Waterford, you pass three bridges 
besides the main one. The first crosses the Mo- 
hawk from Green Island to Vanschaick Island, 
and is four hundred and eighty-two feet long, the 
second crosses another sprout of the Mohawk from 
Vanschaick Island to Hawver Island, and is two 
hundred and two feet long. Three hundred and 
sixty feet further north, the third or minor bridge 
crosses the upper sprout of the Mohawk to Wa- 
terford, and is three hundred and twenty-six feet 
long. On Hawver Island may be seen the remains 
of an old fort thrown up in the Revolutionary war. 
On the Troy bridge there is a side walk for foot 
passengers, the rail road track, and a passage for 
common carriages. A bridge is shortly to be 
thrown across the Hudson from Green Island to 
West Troy, and the miserable horse-boats which 
now convey travellers across the Hudson will 
eventually fall into disuse. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 83 

The passage over the islands to Waterford, and 
indeed the whole route to Balston and Saratoga 
Springs, is really delightful. Then, too, the agents 
on the rail road are civil to the passengers* and at- 
tentive to the locomotives. The engineers are ex- 
perienced, and, although " flying as it were on the- 
wings of the wind," one feels perfectly safe from 
accident. A few miles above Waterford, we pass 
on our right Mechanicsville, a flourishing little 
manufacturing village ; and within a mile or two 
of Bemus' Heights, rendered memorable as the 
scene of battle. 

A brief historical sketch of this battle will not I 
presume, friend P., be uninteresting to your read- 
ers. It is at all events in place ; and perhaps con- 
tains some facts not mentioned in the history of the 
American Revolution. 

It seems that Gen. Burgoyne crossed the Hud- 
son on the 13th and 14th of Sept. 1777, and on the 
18th encamped in two lines, about two miles from 
the camp of Gen. Gates, " his left resting on the 
river, and his right extending at right angles to it 
across the low grounds about six hundred yards, 
to a range of steep and lofty heights occupied by 
his elite, having a creek or gully in his front." 

The camp of Gen. Gates was in the form of a 
segment of a great circle. His right resting on 
the brow of the hill near the river, with which it 



84 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

was connected by a deep entrenchment. The ex- 
tremities were strengthened by strong batteries, and 
the interval by a breastwork constructed of trees, 
logs, and rails. The approach to the right, was 
almost impassable, and the left could not be reached 
without great difficulty. 

The above sketch will give the reader something 
of an idea of the two armies on the day preceding 
the bloody and hotly contested action of the 19th. 

The action of the 19th of September on Bemus' 
Heights, was accidental. Lieut. Col. Colburn, of 
the New Hampshire line, was detached, with a 
light party, to the west side of the river, for the pur- 
pose of observation. He reported about 8 o'clock, 
that the enemy had struck the greater part of their 
tents, and were ascending the heights in the direc- 
tion of the American line. Col. Morgan was im- 
mediately directed to march with his rifle corps, 
to hang on their front and flank, and retard their 
march as much as possible. 

At about half past 12 o'clock, the report of small 
arms announced that Morgan had fallen in with 
the enemy. The firing Avas of short duration. It 
was occasioned by falling in with a British picket, 
which was immediately forced. Pursuing the fu- 
gitives, he suddenly and unexpectedly fell in with 
the British line, and was instantly routed, with the 
loss of several officers and men taken prisoners. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. '35 

An anecdote of Morgan, the rough but intrepid 
commander of the rifle corps, may be interesting 
in this place. 

Col. (afterward General) Wilkinson, was at 
this time acting as Adjutant General of Gates' 
army, and attracted by the fire, he entered the wood. 
The first person he fell in with was Major Deai- 
born, who, with "great animation and a little 
warmth, was forming thirty or forty file of his in- 
fantry ;" on turning to gain the camp, his ears were 
saluted by an uncommon noise ; following the di- 
rection of the sound, he approached Col. Morgan, 
who, attended by only two men, was endeavouring 
with a turkey call to collect his dispersed troops. 
On coming up and accosting him, he burst into 
tears, and exclaimed, " I am ruined ; Major M. ran 
on so rapidly with the front, that they were beaten 
before I could get up with the rear, and my men 
are scattered." 

Two of the New Hampshire regiments (Cilly's 
and Scammel's) were then ordered out, with direc- 
tions to fall too on the left of Morgan. This was 
done, and the action was renewed with considera- 
ble spirit till about 1 o'clock, though subject to oc- 
casional pauses, as the troops on either side shifted 
their ground. Five other regiments were succes- 
sively brought on to the field, and about 3 o'clock 
the action became general, and from this period 



86 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

until nightfall, the roar of musketry was incessant. 
Gen. Scammel's brigade was ordered out towards 
the close of the action, together with Marshal's 
regiment of Patterson's brigade and the Massa- 
chusetts line. Had they been brought out at an 
early hour, it is supposed that something decisive 
would have taken place. The force engaged in 
this action on the part of the Americans amounted 
to about 3,000 men : on the part of the British, as 
it appears from Burgoyne's own statement, about 
3,500 men. Our loss in killed was reported at 
about 80, and 218 wounded, while that of the Brit- 
ish, according to the statements of Lieut. Col. Kings- 
bury, (Burgoyne's Adjutant General,) amounted to 
600 killed and wounded. 

This action, it appears, was entirely accidental, 
and originated in a misconception of Gen. Gates of 
a movement of the enemy, which had reference 
merely to taking new ground on the heights in 
front of the great ravine. 

Thus closely contested, it was more remarkable 
for the cool determination and gallantry displayed 
by the American soldiery, than for any other exhi- 
bition of tactical skill on either side. Says General 
Wilkinson : j 

" The theatre of action was such, that although 
the combatants changed ground a dozen times in 
the course of the dav, the contest terminated on 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 87 

the spot where it began. This may be explained in 
a few words. The British line was formed on an 
eminence in a thin pine wood, having before it 
Freeman's farm, an oblong field stretching from 
the centre towards the right ; the ground in front 
sloping gently down to the verge of this field, which 
was bordered on the opposite side by a close wood ; 
the sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, 
between the eminence occupied by the enemy, and 
the wood just described. The fire of our marks- 
men from this wood was too deadly to be withstood 
by the enemy, in line, when they gave way and 
broke ; our men rushing from their covert pursued 
them to the eminence, where, having their flanks 
protected, they rallied, and charged in turn, drove 
us back into the wood, from whence a dreadful fire 
would again force them to fall back ; and in this 
manner did the battle fluctuate, like the waves of a 
stormy sea, with alternate advantage for hours, with- 
out one moment's intermission. The British ar- 
tillery fell into our possession at every charge, but 
we could neither turn the pieces upon the enemy, 
nor bring them of! The wood prevented the last, 
and the want of a match the first, as the lint stock 
was invariably carried of£ and the rapidity of transi- 
tions did not allow us to provide one. 

"The morning after the action I visited the 
wounded prisoners, who had been dressed, and dis- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



covsred a charming youth, not more than sixteen 
years old, lying among them, feeble, faint, pale, 
and stiff) in his gore. The delicacy of his aspect, 
and the quality of his clothing, attracted my atten- 
tion, and on inquiry, I found that he was Ensign 
Philips. He told me he had fallen by a wound in 
his leg or thigh, and as he lay on the ground, was 
shot through the body by an army follower, a mur- 
derous villain, who avowed the deed ; the moans 
of this helpless youth affected me to tears; I raised 
him from the straw on which he lay, took him in 
my arms, and removed him to a tent, where every 
comfort was provided for him; but his wounds 
were mortal, and he expired." 

One fact in this place is worthy of notice, as 
showing on what a trivial circumstance the fate of 
an army or a nation sometimes depends. 

On the morning of the action, a deserter from 
the enemy's camp came in, and stated that the en- 
tire British army was under arms, and that Gen. 
Burgoyne had given orders for the immediate at- 
tack of our lines, which, in consequence, were 
promptly manned, as well as circumstances would 
admit. An hour was passed in great anxiety, in 
expectation of the threatened attack ; none however 
was made, and the troops were dismissed. Yet it 
appears that the information of the deserter was 
substantially correct. After the surrender of Bur- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 89 

goyne, it was stated by General Phillips that Bur- 
goyne had determined to attack the left of the 
American line, with his whole force, on the morn- 
ing preceding the action ; that the army was formed, 
only waiting for the dispersion of the fog to com- 
mence, when General Frazier observed to General 
Burgoyne, that "the grenadiers and light infantry, 
who were to lead the attack, appeared fatigued by 
the duties of the preceding day, and that if he 
would suspend the operation until the next morn- 
ing, he was persuaded they would carry the at- 
tack with more vivacity." This induced Burgoyne 
to defer it, and the order was countermanded. The 
same day a spy from Sir Henry Clinton reached 
Burgoyne, informing him of his expedition against 
the Highlands. This determined Gen. Burgoyne 
to postpone the attack, and wait for events. Had 
he carried his meditated attack into execution, it is 
very probable that the result would have been 
highly disastrous to the American arms, as our 
troops were quite exhausted from the operations of 
the preceding day; besides, our lines were not 
completed, and what was worse, the left wing, ow- 
ing to some mismanagement, had been prevented 
from drawing ammunition. In point of numerical 
force, the two armies were about equal, but the ad- 
vantage was decidedly with the British, as their 
troops were composed of veterans, while our men 
8* 



90 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

were badly equipped, and were defective in disci- 
pline. Under these circumstances, we may well 
suppose, had the attack been made, that Burgoyne 
would have gained a decided victory, and that the 
convention of Saratoga, by which, a short time af- 
terwards, he surrendered himself and army as pris- 
oners of war, would not have taken place. 

But to leave the field of action. The distance 
from Troy to Balston is about twenty-five miles. 
We left Troy at half past 2, and arrived at Bals- 
ton at half past 4 P. M. Abating hinderances, 
the distance is, I am informed, usually performed 
in an hour and a half. Determined to return the 
same evening, my tarry at Balston was necessarily 
short. 

I however visited the " Sans Souci" the fashion- 
able house for visiters to the Balston Springs. Mr. 
Waters, the worthy proprietor of the establishment, 
I found busily employed in preparing for the sum- 
mer campaign. The house is one of the largest, 
airiest, and most convenient in the country. It i3 
three stories high, one hundred and sixty feet in 
length, with two back ranges of one hundred and 
fifty feet, and capable of accommodating one hun- 
dred and twenty-five to one hundred and fifty per- 
sons. There is a beautiful garden attached to it. Mr, 
W. is not wanting in capacity or disposition to ca- 
ter for the hundreds who flock to his house du- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 91 

ring the summer. As an instance of this it may- 
be mentioned, that he has made arrangements, in 
connexion with Mr. Hull of the Mansion House 
in Troy, to procure fresh from the lakes, perch and 
other choice fish. 

Balston is rather ancient in its appearance. It 
contains about one thousand five hundred inhabit- 
ants. There are several churches, an Academy, 
a Female Seminary ; and a weekly newspaper is 
published here. There are also two or three 
woollen manufactories in operation. 

The village was chartered in 1807, and is di- 
rected by three trustees, who are chosen annually. 
The Balston Lake is situated about six miles from 
the village. It is five miles long and one in width. 
This beautiful lake, and the jaw-cracker creek, 
" Kayaderosseras," which flows along the east end 
of the village, is a great resort for sportsmen in the 
summer season. 

But to return to Troy, (as I did after partaking 
of the medicinal waters of Balston.) We arrived 
at the Mansion House before dark, having since 
half past 2 P. M. travelled fifty miles, and enjoyed 
the varied beauties of a romantic and interesting 
section of country. 

You have heard, friend P., of the "name and the 
fame" of Henry Burden. Well, his residence is 
about two miles from the city. Delightfully situ- 



92 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

ated upon an eminence, which affords a view of 
a large extent of country, the most romantic and 
picturesque imaginable. By the taste of his amia- 
ble and accomplished lady, and the skill of a Eu- 
ropean gardener, the grounds adjacent to the Man- 
sion House have been transformed from a barren 
waste, such as it was when Henry Hudson 

« Frightened the Indian in his wild retreat," 

to an enchanting garden, where the roses of Eng- 
land, the thistle of Scotland, and the lilies of France, 
are taught to luxuriate together. At the bottom of 
the hill rolls, or rather leaps, by a succession of 
foaming cataracts, a rapid and narrow stream, 
which discharges its waters into the Hudson. 

It is here that the most extensive iron works, 
which are to be found in the vicinity of the Hud- 
son, during its whole course, are established. The 
manner in which the nails are manufactured, dif- 
fers in no respect from similar establishments in 
New England. But the process by which spikes 
are produced is the invention of Mr. Burden, and 
it was this important improvement which first 
brought him into notice, and greatly augmented 
his pecuniary resources. 

The next effort of his genius was the construction 
of the far-famed steamboat ; the result of which is 
well known. This discouraging circumstance, to- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 93 

gether with the loss of time and money, which 
were very great, would have been sufficient to 
have entirely disheartened an ordinary mind. But 
in a single week, after the wreck of his steamboat, 
Mr. B. produced the model for the manufacture of 
horse shoes, which promises soon to yield an im- 
mense profit. Mr. Burden is now on a voyage to 
Europe, to procure letters patent for the exclusive 
use of his inventions there. Success attend every 
effort of his inventive cleverness. 

While in Troy, 1 enjoyed the privilege extended 
to all strangers, of visiting the well-regulated and 
extensive reading rooms of the " Troy Young 
Men's Association." This association is composed 
of five hundred and fifty young men between the 
ages of fourteen and forty. Persons over forty are 
admitted as honorary members by paying $5 per 
annum. The regular members pay $2. The 
reading rooms are furnished with about one hun- 
dred and fifty principal newspapers and magazines, 
from every state in the Union, as well as from for- 
eign countries. There is also connected with it a 
library of about twelve hundred volumes. Lec- 
tures are delivered before the members of the asso- 
ciation from December to March, on moral, lite- 
rary, and scientific subjects. A part of the mem- 
bers have formed a Debating Society. The asso- 
ciation is incorporated, and can hold property to the 



94 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

amount of $30,000. Ladies are introduced, and 
not unfrequently visit the rooms in pleasant weather. 

West Troy, directly opposite the city on the 
west side of the Hudson River, has but little to at- 
tract the attention of the traveller. The United 
States Arsenal, however, is located here, and there 
are several articles manufactured pretty extensively, 
such as stone-ware, steam engines, etc. 

There is a fine smooth Macadamized turnpike 
on the west side of the river, from West Troy to 
Albany. This road was completed in 1831, and 
cost about $100,000. An excellent line of accom- 
modation stages leave Troy and Albany every half 
hour during the day. Passengers with their bag- 
gage are taken up and put down in any part of 
either city, for the trifling sum of twenty-five cents. 
The distance over the turnpike is six miles, and it 
runs parallel and in sight of the river and the great 
canal all the way. A steamboat, the John Ma- 
son, plies between Troy and Albany three or four 
times a day. But travellers generally prefer the 
pleasant route over the turnpike. There is a very 
neat public house on the road, where the stages 
stop, known as the half-way house. In the sum- 
mer season, the citizens of the two cities find this a 
delightful resort or stopping place. 

The facilities of travelling from Troy are quite 
numerous; besides the steamboats and the rail road, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 95 

stages leave for Castleton, Rutland, Manchester, 
Chester, Bennington, Brattleborough, Greenfield, 
Worcester, Lebanon Springs, Pittsrield, Boston, 
and for Whitehall via Sandy Hill, every day; and 
for Union Village to Whitehall, three times a week. 



LETTER XL 

Revolutionary Reminiscences of the Hudson — Fort Edward 
— General Lyman— Story of the fate of Miss Jane M l Crea, 
etc. 

Troy, May 12, 1836. 

Dear P. — In my last from this place, I intro- 
duced a brief account of the battle of Bemus' 
Heights. No section of the country is, perhaps, 
more fraught with reminiscences of war than the 
11 Hudson and its vicinity." Following the river 
about fifty miles north of Troy, you reach the vil- 
lage of Fort Edward. The fort was raised during 
the memorable war of 1775, for the defence of this 
point of the Hudson. It was originally called Fort 
Lyman, after General Lyman, a brave but neglected 
officer. About half a mile above Fort Edward 
stands the old pine tree which marks the spot 
where Miss Jane M'Crea was murdered by the In- 
dians. The story of her fate, related by an anony- 
mous pen, will bear repeating in this place. For it 
" has been a theme which eloquence and sensibility 
have alike contributed to dignify, and which has 
kindled in many a breast the emotions of a respon- 
sive sympathy. General Gates's sympathy in his 
letter to Burgoyne, although more ornate than for- 
cible, and abounding more in bad taste than sim j 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. (?) 

plicity or pathos, was suited to the feelings of the 
moment, and produced a lively impression in every 
part of America; and the glowing language of 
Burke, in one of his most celebrated speeches in 
the British Parliament, made the story of Jane 
M'Crea familiar to the European world." 

This young lady was the daughter of a clergy- 
man who died in New Jersey before the Revolu- 
tion. Upon her father's death, she sought a home 
in the house of her brother, a respectable gentle- 
man residing on the western bank of Hudson 
River, about four miles below Fort Edward. Here 
«he formed an intimacy with a young man named 
David Jones, to whom it was understood she was 
engaged to be married. When the war broke out, 
Jones took the side of the royalists, went to Canada 
received a commission, and was a captain or lieu 
tenant among the provincials in Burgoyne's army, 

Fort Edward was situated on the eastern mar 
gin of Hudson River, within a few yards of the 
water, and surrounded by a plain of considerable 
extent, which was cleared of wood and cultivated. 
On tke road leading to the north, and near the foot 
of the hill, about one third of a mile from the fort, 
stood a house occupied by Mrs. M'Neil, a widow 
lady, and an acquaintance of Miss M'Crea, with 
whom she was staying as a visiter at the time the 
American army was in that neighbourhood. The 
9 



98 LETTERS ABOUT TBE HUDSON. 

side of the hill was covered with a growth of bushes, 
and on its top, a quarter of a mile from the house, 
stood a large pine tree, near the root of which 
gushed out a perennial spring of water. A guard 
of one hundred men had been left at the fort, and a 
picket under Lieutenant Van Vechten was stationed 
in the woods on the hill a little beyond the pine 
tree. 

Early one morning this picket guard was at- 
tacked by a party of Indians, rushing through the 
woods from different points at the same moment, 
and rending the air with their hideous yells. Lieut. 
Van Vechten and five others were killed and scalp- 
ed, and four were wounded. Samuel Standish, one 
of the guard, whose post was near the pine tree, 
discharged his musket at the first Indian he saw, 
and ran down the hill towards the fort ; but he had 
no sooner reached the plain, than three Indians 
who had pursued him, cut off his retreat, darted 
out of the bushes, fired, and wounded him in the 
foot. One of them sprang upon him, threw him to 
the ground, pinioned his arms, and then pushed 
him violently forward up the hill. He naturally 
made as much haste as he could, and in a short 
time they came to the spring, where several In- 
dians were assembled. 

Here Standish was left to himself, at a little dis- 
tance from the spring and the pine tree, expecting 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 99 

every moment to share the fate of his comrades, 
whose scalps were conspicuously displayed. A 
few minutes only had elapsed, when he saw a 
small party of the Indians ascending the hill, and 
with them Mrs. M'Neil and Miss M'Crea on foot. 
He knew them both, having often been at Mrs. 
M'Neil's house. The party had hardly joined the 
other Indians, when he perceived much agitation 
among them, high words and violent gestures, till 
at length they engaged in a furious quarrel, and 
beat one another with their muskets. In the midst 
of this fray, one of the chiefs, apparently in a par- 
oxysm of rage, shot Miss M'Crea in the breast. 
She instantly fell and expired. Her hair was long 
and flowing. The same chief grasped it in his 
hand, seized his knife, and took off the scalp in 
such a manner as to include nearly the whole of 
the hair ; then springing from the ground, he tossed 
it in the face of a young warrior, who stood near 
him watching the operation, brandished it in the 
air, and uttered a yell of savage exultation. When 
this was done the quarrel ceased ; and, as the fort 
had already been alarmed, the Indians hurried 
away as quickly as possible to Gen. Frazier's en- 
campment on the road to Fort Anne, taking with 
them Mrs. M'Neil and Samuel Standish. 

The bodies of the slain were found by a party 
that went in pursuit, and were carried across the 



100 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

river. They had been stripped of their clothing, 
and the body of Miss M'Crea was wounded in nine 
places, either by a scalping knife or a tomahawk. 
A messenger was despatched to convey the afflict- 
ing intelligence to her brother, who arrived soon 
afterward, took charge of his sister's remains, and 
had them interred on the east side of the river about 
three miles below the fort. The body of Lieut. 
Van Vechten was buried at the same time, and on 
the same spot. 

History has preserved no facts by which we can 
at this day ascertain the reason why Miss M'Crea 
should remain as she did in so exposed and un- 
protected a situation, She had been reminded of 
her danger by the people at the fort. Tradition 
relates, however, and with seeming truth, that 
through some medium of communication she had 
promised her lover, probably by his advice, to re- 
main in this place, until the approach of the British 
troops should afford an opportunity to join him, in 
company with her hostess and friend. It is said, 
that, when they saw the Indians coming to the 
house, they were at first frightened, and attempted 
to escape; but, as the Indians made signs of pa- 
cific intention, and one of them held up a letter in- 
timating that it was to be opened, their fears were 
calmed and the letter was read. It was from Jones, 
and contained a request that they would put them- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 101 

selves under the charge of the Indians, whom he 
had sent for the purpose, and who would guard 
them in safety to the British camp. Unfortunately, 
two separate parties of Indians, or, at least, two 
chiefs acting independently of each other, had uni- 
ted in this enterprise, combining with it an attack 
of the picket guard. It is incredible that Jones 
should have known this part of the arrangement, 
or he would have foreseen the danger it threatened. 
When the prize was at their hands, the two chiefs 
quarrelled about the mode of dividing the rewards 
they were to receive ; and, according to the Indian 
rule of settling disputes in the case of captives, one 
of them, in a wild fit of passion, killed the victim 
and secured the scalp. Nor is it the least shocking 
feature of the transaction, that the savage seemed 
not aware of his mission. Uninformed as to the 
motive of his employer for obtaining the person of 
the lady, or not comprehending it, he regarded her 
in the light of a prisoner, and supposed the scalp 
would be an acceptable trophy. Let it be imagined 
what were the feelings of the anxious lover, waiting 
with joyful anticipation the arrival of his intended 
bride, when this appalling proof of her death was 
presented to him. The innocent had suffered by 
the hand of cruelty and violence, which he had un- 
consciously armed ; his most fondly cherished hopes 
were blasted, and a sting was planted in his soul, 
9* 



102 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

which time and forgetfulness never could eradicate. 
His spirit was scathed and his heart broken. He 
lived but a few years, a prey to his own sad recol- 
lections, and sunk into the grave under the burden 
of his grief. 

The remembrance of this melancholy tale is still 
cherished with a lively sympathy, by the people 
who dwell near the scene of its principal incidents. 
— The inhabitants of the village of Fort Edward, 
have lately removed the remains of Miss M'Crea 
from their obscure resting place, and deposited 
them in the public burial-ground. The ceremony 
was solemn and impressive. A procession of young 
men and maidens followed the relics, and wept in 
silence when the earth was again closed over them ; 
thus exhibiting an honourable proof of sensibility 
and of respect for the dead. The little fountain 
still pours out its clear waters near the brow of 
the hill, and the venerable pine is yet standing in 
its ancient majesty, broken at the top and shorn of 
its branches by the winds and storms of half a cen- 
tury, but revered as marking the spot where youth 
and innocence w r ere sacrificed in the tragical death 
of Jane M'Crea.* 

* Sparks Life of Gen. Arnold. 



LETTER XII. 

Master Ldpsey's Boat— Revolutionary Incident— The Boat 
Club— The passing of <t Steamboat— Cold Spring— CoL 
George P. Morris's Mansion— Scenery— Old Cro 1 -Nest- 
Magnificent Sice— Description of CoL Morris's House — 
T7ie Gardener of an English Earl — Mischief of Ignorance 
— Our Lady of Cold Spring— Lines for Music, etc. 

New York, 1835. 

Dear P. — In one of my excursions last summer 
upon the Hudson, I stopped at West-Point, but 
must now postpone a description of that place, as I 
immediately took possession of Master Lipsey's 
(the Charon of these parts) boat — a personage and 
a craft well known to all the sojourners at West- 
Point, and in which many a gay party from the 
south, and, in fact, from all quarters of the world, 
has sailed in the shadow of old Cro' -Nest, and 
danced over the glad waters of the green and glassy 
Hudson. In passing through the gorge, across 
which in the revolutionary war a chain was stretch- 
ed to prevent the incursions of the British light 
vessels of war, and where reposes the rock hurled 
from its bold and threatening eminence by the giant 
arm of old Putnam himself, we encountered one of 
the airiest pleasure boats I have recently seen. It 
was manned by a crew in uniform white jackets, 



104 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

and was, altogether, a neat and tasty affair. It is 
called the Auriel, and belongs to a club composed 
of the professors and officers of West Point, and the 
gentlemen of the vicinity. The exercise is con- 
ducive not only to the health of the members, but 
to the cultivation of good fellowship, and a gene- 
rous and cordial hospitality. The river was alive 
with vessels of every description, and it was no 
easy matter to wind our way among the small-craft 
and sloops, beating and tacking under what is nau- 
tically termed a " cracking breeze." I counted more 
than sixty of these trim river craft between We&t- 
Point and Newburgh, in a distance of eight miles. 
The passing of the steamboats is an amusing scene, 
and the landing always creates a sensation among 
the " natives" and visiters. So many arrivals and 
departures constantly taking place, meetings of 
friends, and salutations from the passengers to those 
they recognise on the wharf, and the bustle of the 
porters, render it one of the liveliest incidents of 
the day. We crossed the wake of the North 
America, which is one of the most agreeable op- 
erations in the world to a person of steady nerves, 
but not so amusing to those who do not affect the 
chance, or, at all events, the apprehension of a cap- 
size, inasmuch as the undulating motion occasioned 
by these large vessels, in the narrow pass of the 
Highlands, is mighty uncomfortable, and seems 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 105 

never to subside. Escaping this peril, I arrived 
safe at Cold Spring, a little village that owes most 
of its prosperity to the foundry belonging to Mr. 
Gouvernier Kemble, at which nearly one hundred 
individuals are constantly employed. This gentle- 
man is famed for his hospitality, which however I 
did not have an opportunity of enjoying, as I had 
determined on a visit to my old friend Col. George 
P. Morris, the editor of the New- York Mirror, a 
gentleman of whose friendship any one might be 
proud. 

Col. Morris's house is built upon a plateau just 
above the village, and commands a picturesque, 
and lake-like view of the noble Hudson to the 
north, with the blue range of the distant Catskills 
bounding the horizon. In front you have old 
Cro'-Nest and his subject mountains, with their 
map of living verdure crowning their brows and 
sides — the scene of Rodman Drake's exquisite 
poem of the " Culprit Fay." To the south, it en- 
joys one of the finest and most uninterrupted views 
imaginable of West-Point, the plains, buildings, 
and Fort Putnam ; and on a clear day, the parade 
of the cadets may be distinctly seen from the por- 
tico ; and their music, echoed by a hundred hills, 
falls soothingly and pleasantly upon the ear. 

Altogether, this is one of the most magnificent 
sites for a summer residence in the United States. 



106 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

It possesses, in many respects, advantages even su- 
perior to those of West-Point; and if a good hotel, 
or comfortable boarding-houses were established 
here, it would vie with that spot as a summer re- 
treat. I believe that it is or was contemplated by 
Mr. Samuel Gouverneur, one of the largest land- 
holders in the neighbourhood, to build a house of 
this description on the blufT just below Cold Spring, 
which forms the narrowest part of the Highlands. 
I am not going, after the manner of letter-wri- 
ters in general, to furnish you Avith a catalogue ot 
the exquisite paintings and busts, costly books, and 
luxurious appliances to the noble mansion of Col. 
Morris, nor do I intend to discuss the excellence of 
the ragouts, to dilate upon the unexceptionable 
qualities of the chateau mar gout, and least of all, 
to retail, a la Willis, the agreeable conversation 
that took place there among the hospitable and 
intellectual people, by whom the place was made 
so attractive to me. But I suppose it is no en- 
croachment upon the canons of good breeding, to 
give you an idea of the house itself, briefly and 
succinctly. I understand it was built by John C. 
Hamilton, one of the sons of the late Gen. Ham- 
ilton, and the biographer of that illustrious man ; 
and is one of the most conveniently constructed, 
spacious, and elegant mansions, within and with- 
out, above and below, that the skill of the architect 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 107 

Could have devised. The entrance hall is on a 
novel plan, and has excited much attention, for, 
like Washington's head-quarters in the immediate 
neighbourhood, (Newburgh,) it possesses multi- 
tudes of doors, and but one solitary window, yet it 
is light and airy and cool as a garden bower. The 
drawing-rooms and saloon front the river, and the 
ever-moving panorama of the Hudson is right be- 
fore them, while on a moonlight evening the por- 
tico is one of the pleasantest stations to be conceived. 
The grounds are well disposed, and susceptible 
of the highest improvement, and if the plan which, 
the Colonel showed me on paper be carried into 
effect, his residence at Cold Spring will be a little 
nook stolen out of Paradise. I can't resist narra- 
ting a circumstance here, which shows the incon- 
ceivable stupidity of a foreign beautifier and layer 
out of grounds, who came here for that purpose, 
recommended as a man of taste, and as the ex- 
gardener of an English Earl. Reliance being im- 
plicitly placed upon his tact and skill, he received 
orders to exercise his accomplishments in his pecu- 
liar line to the best advantage — things were left to 
his discretion and responsibility, and he had un- 
controlled and ad libitum authority to plant, to lay 
out, and dispose, as he listed, for two months last 
spring. Judge, friend P., of his employer's sur- 
prise and mortification, when he found that this time 



108 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON." 

had been employed by his beautifier and! radical 
reformer in cutting down and laying waste almost 
every thing in the shape of a tree about the premises ! 

It is really astonishing how much mischief may 
be done in a little time by an ignorant person, even 
though he be the "gardener of an Earl," and the 
growth of years prostrated in one hour. The only 
consolation left for the proprietor was, that the trees, 
although lofty, were only cedars, and that the cir- 
cumstance afforded opportunity for the display of 
his taste in arboriculture, by replacing them with 
others of a more ornamental, choice, and elegant 
description. At the present time, they are busy in 
transplanting full-grown and large-sized oaks, ma- 
ples, and other forest trees, on the plan suggested 
and practised by a Scotch baronet named Stewart, 
and I have no doubt of the complete success of the 
experiment. In this event, the "Earl's gardener," 
without intending it, has unconsciously done good ; 
and out of much evil, benefit will have been de- 
duced, as all transplanters of trees will have a 
model before them, how most safely and judiciously 
to manage their operations. 

But to leave the garden, the trees, and Col. Mor- 
ris's hospitable mansion, which we did, at the time, 
most reluctantly, I will conclude this discursive 
and rambling epistle with some observations which 
I made upon this part of Hudson river, as i dapted 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 109 

more particularly for villas and country-seats. 
This river, it is useless again to state, is the great- 
est thoroughfare of the union. Its scenery through- 
out is magnificent, and in this particular region 
sublime. Health and happiness dwell among its 
hills, and every luxury that the earth can yield is 
wafted by its waters. It is within a few hours' 
journey to New York, and the facilities of access 
are unexampled in convenience, economy, and op- 
portunity. The day is not distant, when the entire 
banks of the Hudson will be dotted with villas of 
the refined and elegant, but "up among these rocky 
cliffs," the Highlands, there are a few acres of ta- 
ble ground which ought to be improved, and which 
must soon be appropriated for the purpose I have 
mentioned, as the eye of " chaste and classic" taste 
could not select a more delicious and consummate 
position for the display of its elegant and graceful 
designs. 

" Our Lady of Cold Spring," is the name of a 
classical and beautiful little Catholic edifice, situated 
on a high rock overhanging the Hudson. The 
traveller, passing by in the steamboats, cannot but 
be struck with its romantic beauty. Surrounded as 
it is by majestic mountains, and the beautiful Hud- 
son, its location seems peculiarly well calculated to 
awaken sentiments of devout adoration. 

But I conclude this letter abruptly (as, unless I 
10 



110 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

do so, I could linger for ever among those quiet and 
heavenly haunts of love and poetry) by transcribing 
a little metrical effusion, which I accidentally met 
with, and the authorship of which I understood is 
attributed to Col. Morris. It is "Lines for Music," 
and evidently written in the earthly paradise which 
I have attempted to describe. 

O would that she were here, 

These hills and dales among, 
Where vocal groves are gayly mocked 

By echo's airy tongue, — 
Where jocund Nature smiles 

In all her gay attire, 
Amid deep-tangled wiles 

Of hawthorn and sweet-brier. 
O would that she were here, 

That fair and gentle thing, 
Whose words are musical as strains 

Breathed by the wind-harp's string. 

O would that she were here, 

Where the free waters leap, 
Shouting in their joyousness, 

Adown the rocky steep, — 
Where rosy Zephyr lingers 

All the livelong day, 
With health upon his pinions, 

And gladness in his way. 
O would that she were here, 

Sure Eden's garden-plot 
Did not embrace more varied charms 

Than this romantic spot. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. Ill 

O would that she were here, 

Where frolic by the hours, 
Rife with the song of bee and bird, 

The perfume of the flowers, — 
Where beams of peace and love, 

And radiant beauty's glow, 
Are pictured in the sky above, 

And in the lake below. 
O would that she were here — 

The nymphs of this bright scene, 
With song and dance and revelry, 

Would crown Bianca queen. 

Yours. 



LETTER XIII. 

Strictures on Albany— The Clergy— Historical Sketch of Al- 
bany— Head- Quarters of Gen. Lafayette— Mrs. Grant's de- 
scription of Albany in olden time — Manner of living there 
—Hermitage— Gentle treatment of slaves among the Alba- 
nians — Consequent attachment of domestics, ete. 

Albany, May 20, 1836. 

Friend P. — Albany, the crack city of the Hud- 
son, is the oldest settlement save one in the United 
States.* Considering its age and importance as a 
Beat of government, the traveller expects to find a 
lion, but is soon undeceived, it being little more 
than a lion's whelp. There is an aristocracy 
founded upon two of the most contemptible of the 
instruments of power — money and party politics. 
Of the latter, I, as an administration man, would 
never complain, were it permitted to hold its ap- 
propriate place. But it is here the leaven affect- 
ing the whole lump. I object to it when it influ- 
ences, in the least degree, the courtesies of life. 
Political opinion ought never to be the only pass- 
port to hospitality. The manners of the better 
classes are, at first, uniformly of the non-committal 

* Jamestown, in Virginia, was settled in 1607, while Albany 
dates its origin in 1610. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 113 

sort. They appear to suspect you of an intention 
to pick their pockets, or take sides with their po- 
litical opponents. Coming as I did, from New 
York, where hearts, like the merchandise, are out 
of doors, it operated like a cold bath in the month 
of December. But, thank Heaven, they are as jeal- 
ous of each other as of strangers. The starting of 
a new project is the alarm for a whole swarm of 
little big men to look out for their rights, that is, 
in the vernacular language, to hold on upon their 
carefully accumulated stock of money and political 
power. There would be more pale faces at the 
loss of a vote, or a few dollars, than could be pro- 
duced in New York by a tenth exhibition of the 
great conflagration. 

The step from the sublime to the ridiculous has 
long since been taken on every subject. Even re- 
ligion, which ought to be free from every foreign 
influence, and be permitted to move unconstrained 
in her own simple dignit}^ and grace, is made to 
minister to the men in power. The manner in 

which the Rev. — is showed up, renders him 

a complete ****. To have heard and praised 
him, is the test both of your good sense and po- 
liteness. I have heard strangers, more than once, 
smart under the chafing given them on the subject, 
by a certain distinguished gentleman's family. Of 
the denomination to which he belongs, he is a truly 
10* 



114 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

devoted minister. He possesses a simple and ear- 
nest piety, that always commands respect and es- 
teem. His prayers, for fervour and directness, ex- 
ceed any I have ever heard. But having said thus, 
you have said all. His eloquence is like a river of 
oil flowing on before a thirsty man. He may please, 
but never satisfies. He does not possess what his 
admirers claim, originality of mind. His store- 
house is well supplied, by his indefatigable indus- 
try, from the arguments of abler men. He has 
eloquence, but it is not classical. It has been spoiled 
by fondling, till it has almost lost, what I think it 
once possessed, the freedom and boldness of nature 
in her wildest mood. 

The Rev. Dr. S , both in and out of the pul- 
pit, is a truly interesting man. Had his temper- 
ance defamer in Boston, that renowned purifier of 
the " Pige&n Stables," and of acrostic memory, 
known the Doctor here, he would have restrained 
his powerful, but slanderous and malignant pen.* 
He has the artlessness of a child, with the learning 
that classes him with our most distinguished men. 
His contributions to our stock of religious literature 
are invaluable. 

* This gentleman, who has lately distinguished himself as 
the reformer of Dr. S. and other as good men, is no novice in 
the business, as the Roxbury Pigery, removed by his elo- 
quence, can testify. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. ] 15 

The Rev. Mr. P., the Rector of St. Paul's church, 
is an excellent preacher. The productions of his 
pen display the " ripe and good scholar." His 
style is at once chaste and classic, and at the same 
time condensed and pungent. Modesty, and a want 
of confidence in the powers of his mind, are great 
barriers to his fame. But with preachers and 
preaching, and with fault finding, I have done. 

Looking over the first directory of Albany, I 
gather some items of the history of this city, which 
it may not be amiss to introduce. It seems that 
the first fort was built on an island below, but was 
abandoned in consequence of the frequency and 
height of the river floods. Fort Orange was erected 
in 1617, and a person by the name of Sebastian 
Croll, was the first commissary of the fort. 

In 1629, a charter of liberties and exemptions for 
patroons, masters, and private individuals, who 
should plant colonies in New Netherlands, was 
granted by the States General of Holland. Un- 
der this charter, a purchase of lands was made in 
August, of the same year, for Kilian Rensselaer; a 
merchant of Amsterdam, the ancestor of the present 
Patroon's family. 

The consequence and power of this individual, as 
a patentee, may be gleaned from the Dutch rec- 
ords in the secretary's office. He had a small fort 
of his own, and on one occasion lent some cannon 



116 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

to the military commanders at Fort Orange. He 
had his sheriff, a fort at Bear Island, and his com- 
mandant there was known to have fired at the 
sloops which passed without saluting the fort. His 
residence, called the Rensselaer burg, was first 
at the island below the city. The commerce of 
Albany was principally with the savages, for 
beavers, in exchange for strouds, leggins, and 
rum. Brokers were employed by the inhabitants 
to purchase the skins, and they were natives or 
savages, as the demand or the competition made it 
necessary to obtain their aid. A court was held 
in the fort, consisting of the commissary and as- 
sociates, duly appointed in Holland ; and these 
had the exclusive jurisdiction in matters civil and 
criminal. 

In 1664, it was captured from the Dutch by a 
force under Major Cartwright. Kalm, w r ho visited 
the city after the charter had been granted by the 
English Governor Dongan, describes its appear- 
ance as being that of a small town, with two prin- 
cipal streets crossing each other, in one of which 
was placed all the public buildings. This will ac- 
count for the great width of State street. It then 
contained the fort, a regular though slight stockade, 
the English church, the guard-house, the town- 
house, the Dutch church, and the market. It had 
a very rural appearance ; each house having its 



LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 117* 

garden and shade trees. The situations on the 
water side were beautiful. There were three 
docks — the lower, middle, and upper. The lower 
was called the King's dock. The vessels were 
unloaded by the aid of canoes lashed together, and 
having a platform built upon them, where the goods 
were placed. 

The alterations in the city have been astonish- 
ing. Where Fox street now crosses Pearl street, 
was a deep ravine, crossed by a bridge, and the de- 
scent to it was quite sudden. Other ravines crossed 
the streets running parallel to the river. These 
are now no longer visible. State street was much 
steeper. The road to Schenectady ran round the 
fort to the south and west, where the state offices 
now stand ; and where the elegant mansions of two 
of the mayors are now situated, were banks of earth 
reaching up as far as the third story. Chapel 
street was full of stores and warehouses, and there 
the principal business was done. Then it was 
Barrack street. The Pasture was literally such, 
and now where Lydius street is laid out, was the 
regular encamping ground of the British armies, 
commanded by Amherst and Abercrombie. 

Albany, during the revolutionary era, presented 
a singular appearance. It was stockaded ; had its 
north and south gates ; was a military post ; was 
commanded by the gallant Layfayette, and Col. 



118 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Van Schaick, a distinguished officer and native of 
Albany ; and was considered one of the most im- 
portant stations in the United States. It was the 
key to the north and west, the point from which 
our armies threatened Montreal and Quebec, or the 
British posts on the lakes. 

General Schuyler's, General Ten Broeck's, and 
the Patroon's mansions, convey to us a good idea 
of the taste of the builders, and the elegance of the 
modes of living among the wealthy and distin- 
guished families of the olden time. A house in 
North Pearl street, near General Westerlo's resi- 
dence, is distinguished as having been the head- 
quarters of Lafayette, which, on his recent visit to 
the United States, he recognised as he passed 
rapidly through the town, from the circumstance 
of its having a curious brass knocker, an animal 
hanging down by its hind legs. 

Mrs. Grant, in her " Memoirs of an American 
Lady,"* gives, in her quaint but interesting style, 
the following description of Albany, the manner of 
living there in olden time, etc. 

* The work was first published in London, in 1803. Mr. 
George Dearborn, of Gold street, has just published a new 
and beautiful edition of the work. Southey pronounced " her 
description of the breaking up of the ice in the Hudson" as 
"quite Homeric." Its "re-appearance must be a welcome 
event in the marshalling of American literature now in pro- 
gress." 



BETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 119 

" The city of Albany was stretched along the 
banks of the Hudson ; one very wide and long" 
street lay parallel to the river, the intermediate 
space between it and the shore being occupied by 
gardens. A small, but steep hill rose above the 
centre of the town, on which stood a fort, intended 
(but very ill adapted) for the defence of the place, 
and of the neighbouring country. From the foot 
of this hill, another street was built, sloping pretty 
rapidly down till it joined the one before mentioned 
that ran along the river. This street was still 
wider than the other ; it was only paved on each 
side, the middle being occupied by public edifices. 
These consisted of a market-place, or guard-house, 
a town hall, and the English and Dutch churches. 
The English church, belonging to the Episcopal 
persuasion, and in the diocess of the bishop of Lon- 
don, stood at the foot of the hill, at the upper end 
of the street. The Dutch church was situated at 
the bottom of the descent where the street termi- 
nated; two irregular streets, not so broad, but 
equally long, ran parallel to those, and a few even 
ones open between them. The town, in proportion 
to its population, occupied a great space of ground. 
This city, in short, was a kind of semi-rural estab- 
lishment ; every house had its garden, well, and a 
little green behind ; before every door a tree was 
planted, rendered interesting by being coeval with 



120 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

some beloved member of the family ; many of their 
trees were of a prodigious size and extraordinary 
beauty, but without regularity, every one planting 
the kind that best pleased him, or which he thought 
would afford the most agreeable shade to the open 
portico at his door, which was surrounded by seats, 
and ascended by a few steps. It was in these that 
each domestic group was seated in summer even- 
ings to enjoy the balmy twilight, or serenely clear 
moonlight. Each family had a cow, fed in com- 
mon pasture at the end of the town. In the even- 
ing they returned all together, of their own accord, 
with their tinkling bells hung at their necks, along 
the wide and grassy street, to their wonted shelter- 
ing trees, to be milked at their masters' doors. 
Nothing could be more pleasing to a simple and 
benevolent mind, than to see thus, at one view, all 
the inhabitants of a town, which contained not ono 
very rich or very poor, very knowing or very ig- 
norant, very rude or very polished individual ; to 
see all these children of nature enjoying in easy 
indolence, or social intercourse, 

" The cool, the fragrant, and the dusky hour," 

clothed in the plainest habits, and with minds as 
undisguised and artless. These primitive beings 
were dispersed in porches, grouped according to 
similarity of years and inclinations. At one door 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 121 

young matrons, at another the elders of the people, 
at a third the youths and maidens gayly chatting or 
singing together, while the children played round 
the trees, or waited near the cows, for the chief in- 
gredient of their frugal supper, which they gener- 
ally ate, sitting on the steps in the open air. This 
picture, so familiar to my imagination, has led me 
away from my purpose, which was to describe the 
rural economy and modes of living in this patri- 
archal city. At one end of the town, as I observed 
before, was a common pasture, where all the cat- 
tle belonging to the inhabitants grazed together. 
A never-failing instinct guided each home to her 
master's door in the evening, where, being treated 
with a few vegetables and a little salt, which is in- 
dispensably necessary for cattle in this country, 
they patiently waited the night ; and after being 
milked in the morning, they went off in slow and 
regular procession to their pasture. At the other 
end of the town was a fertile plain along the river, 
three miles in length, and near a mile broad. This 
was all divided into lots, where every inhabitant 
raised Indian corn, sufficient for the food of two or 
three slaves, (the greatest number that each family 
ever possessed,) and for his horses, pigs, and poul- 
try: their flour and other grain they purchased 
from farmers in the vicinity. Above the town, a 
long stretch to the westward was occupied first by 
11 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



sandy hills, on which grew bilberries of uncommon 
size and flavour* in prodigious quantities ; beyond, 
rise heights of a poor hungry soil, thinly covered 
with stunted pines, or dwarf oaks. Yet in this 
comparatively barren tract, there were several wild 
and picturesque spots, where small brooks, running 
in deep and rich bottoms, nourished on their banks 
every vegetable beauty ; there, some of the most 
industrious early settlers had cleared the luxuriant 
wood from these charming little glens, and built 
neat cottages for their slaves, surrounded with little 
gardens and orchards, sheltered from every blast, 
wildly picturesque, and richly productive. Those 
small sequestered vales had an attraction that I 
know not how to describe, and which probably re- 
sulted from the air of deep repose that reigned there, 
and the strong contrast which they exhibited to the 
surrounding sterility. One of these was in my 
time inhabited by a hermit. He was a French- 
man, and did not seem to inspire much veneration 
among the Albanians. They imagined, or had 
heard, that he retired to that solitude in remorse for 
some fatal duel in which he had been engaged ; 
and considered him as an idolater, because he had 
an image of the Virgin in his hut. I think he re- 
tired to Canada at last ; but I remember being 
ready to worship him, for the sanctity with which 
my imagination invested him, and being cruelly 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 123 

disappointed because I was not permitted to visit 
him. These cottages were in summer occupied by 
some of the negroes, who cultivated the grounds 
about them, and served as a place of joyful liberty to 
the children of the family on holydays, and a nursery 
for the young negroes, whom it was the custom 
to rear very tenderly, and instruct very carefully. 

" In the society 1 am describing, even the dark as- 
pect of slavery was softened into a smile. And I 
must, injustice to the best possible masters, say, 
that a great deal of that tranquillity and comfort, 
to call them by no higher names, which distinguish 
this society from all others, was owing to the rela- 
tion between master and servant being better un- 
derstood here than in any other place. Lot me not 
be detested as an advocate for slavery, when I say, 
that I think I have never seen people so happy in ser- 
vitude as the domestics of the Albanians. One rea- 
son was, (for I do not now speak of the virtues of 
their masters,) that each family had few of them, 
and that there were no field negroes. They would 
remind one of Abraham's servants, who were all 
born in the house, which was exactly their case. 
They were baptized too, and shared the same re- 
ligious instruction with the children of the family ; 
and, for the first years, there was little or no differ- 
ence with regard to food or clothing, between their 
children and those of their masters. 



124 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

" When a negro woman's child attained the age 
of three years, the first New Year's day after, it 
was solemnly presented to a son or daughter, or 
other young relative of the family, who was of the 
same sex with the child so presented. The child 
to whom the young negro was given, immediately 
presented it with some piece of money and a pair 
of shoes ; and from that day, the strongest attach- 
ment subsisted between the domestic and the des- 
tined owner. I have nowhere met with instances 
of friendship more tender and generous, than that 
which here subsisted between the slaves and their 
masters and mistresses. Extraordinary proofs of 
them have been often given in the course of hunt- 
ing or Indian trading, when a young man and his 
slave have gone to the trackless woods together, 
in the cases of fits of the ague, loss of a canoe, and 
other casualties happening near hostile Indians. 
The slave has been known, at the imminent risk 
of his life, to carry his disabled master through 
trackless woods with labour and fidelity scarce cred- 
ible ', and the master has been equally tender on 
similar occasions, of the humble friend who stuck 
closer than a brother ; who was baptized with the 
same baptism, nurtured under the same roof, and 
often rocked in the same cradle with himself. 
These gifts of domestics to the younger members 
of the family were not irrevocable ; yet they were 



LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 125 

very rarely withdrawn. If the kitchen family did 
not increase in proportion to that of the master, 
young children were purchased from some family 
where they abounded, to furnish those attached ser- 
vants to the rising progeny. They were never 
sold without consulting their mother, who, if ex- 
pert and sagacious, had a great deal to say in the 
family, and would not allow her child to go into any 
family with whose domestics she was not acquaint- 
ed. These negro women piqued themselves on 
teaching their children to be excellent servants, well 
knowing servitude to be their lot for life, and that 
it could only be sweetened by making themselves 
particularly useful, and excelling in their depart- 
ment. If they did their work well, it is astonish- 
ing, when I recollect it, what liberty of speech was 
allowed to those active and prudent mothers. They 
would chide, reprove, and expostulate, in a manner 
that we would not endure from our hired servants ; 
and sometimes exert fully as much authority over 
the children of the family as the parents, conscious 
that they were entirely in their power. They did 
not crush freedom of speech and opinion in those, 
by whom they knew they were beloved, and who 
watched with incessant care over their interest and 
comfort. Affectionate and faithful as these home- 
bred servants were in general, there were some in- 
stances (but very few) of those who, through levity 
11* 



126 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

of mind, or a love of liquor, or finery, betrayed 
their trust, or habitually neglected their duty. In 
these cases, after every means had been' used to re- 
form them, no severe punishments were inflicted at 
home. But the terrible sentence, which they 
dreaded worse than death, was passed — they were 
sold to Jamaica. The necessity of doing this was 
bewailed by the whole family as a most dreadful 
calamity, and the culprit was carefully watched on 
his way to New York, lest he should evade the 
sentence by self-destruction. 

" Amidst all this mild and really tender indul- 
gence to their negroes, these colonists had not the 
smallest scruple of conscience with regard to the 
right by which they held them in subjection. Had 
that been the case, their singular humanity would 
have been incompatible with continued injustice. 
But the truth is, that of law, the generality of those 
people knew little ; and of philosophy, nothing at 
all. They sought their code of morality in the 
Bible, and there, imagined they found this hapless 
race condemned to perpetual slavery ; and thought 
nothing remained for them but to lighten the chains 
of their fellow Christians, after having made them 
such. This I neither "extenuate," nor "set down 
in malice," but merely record the fact. At the 
same time, it is but justice to record also a singu- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 127 

lar instance of moral delicacy, distinguishing this 
settlement from every other in the like circum- 
stances, though, from their simple and kindly modes 
of life, they were from infancy in habits of famil- 
iarity with these humble friends, yet being early 
taught that nature had placed between them a bar- 
rier, which it was in a high degree criminal and dis- 
graceful to pass, they considered a mixture of such 
distinct races with abhorrence, as a violation of her 
laws. This greatly conduced to the preservation 
of family happiness and concord. An ambiguous 
race, which the law does not acknowledge; and 
who (if they have any moral sense, must be as 
much ashamed of their parents as these last are of 
them) are certainly a dangerous, because degraded 
part of the community. How much more so must 
be those unfortunate beings, who stand in the pre- 
dicament of the bat in the fable, whom both birds and 
beasts disowned? I am sorry to say that the pro- 
gress of the British army, when it arrived, might 
be traced by a spurious and ambiguous race of this 
kind. But of a mulatto born before their arrival, 
I only remember a single instance ; and from the 
regret and wonder it occasioned, considered it as 
singular. Colonel Schuyler, of whom I am to 
speak, had a relation so weak and defective in ca- 
pacity, that he never was intrusted with any thing 
of his own, and lived an idle bachelor about the 



128 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

family. In process of time, a favourite negro wo- 
man, to the great offence and scandal of the family, 
bore a child to him, whose colour gave testimony 
to the relation. The boy was carefully educated ; 
and when he grew up, a farm was allotted to him 
well stocked and fertile, but ' in depth of woods em- 
braced,' about two miles back from the family seat. 
A destitute white woman, who had somehow wan- 
dered from the older colonies, was induced to marry 
him; and all the branches of the family thought it 
incumbent on them, now and then, to pay a quiet 
visit to Chalk, (for so, for some unknown reason, 
they always called him.) I have been in Chalk's 
house myself, and a most comfortable abode it was; 
but considered him as a mysterious and anomalous 
being. 

" I have dwelt the longer on this singular in-, 
stance of slavery, existing devoid of its attendant 
horrors, because the fidelity and affection resulting 
from a bond of union so early formed between mas- 
ter and servant, contributed so very much to the 
safety of individuals, as well as the general com- 
fort of society, as will hereafter appear. 

" The foundations, both of friendship and still 
tenderer attachments, were here laid very early, by 
an institution which I always thought had been 
peculiar to Albany, till I found in Dr. Moore's 
View of Society on the Continent, an account of a 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 129 

similar custom subsisting in Geneva. The chil- 
dren of the town were all divided into companies, as 
they called them, from five or six years of age, till 
they became marriageable. How those companies 
first originated, or what were their exact regula- 
tions, I cannot say ; though I, belonging to none, oc- 
casionally mixed with several, yet always as a stran- 
ger, though I spoke their current language fluently. 
Every company contained as many boys as girls. 
But I do not know that there was any limited num- 
ber ; only this I recollect, that a boy and girl of 
each company, who were older, cleverer, or had 
some other pre-eminence above the rest, were called 
heads of the company, and, as such, obeyed by the 
others. Whether they were voted in, or attained 
their pre-eminence by a tacit acknowledgment of 
their superiority, I knew not; but however it was 
attained, it was never disputed. The companies of 
little children had also their heads. All the chil- 
dren of the same age were not in one company ; 
there were at least three or four of equal ages, who 
had a strong rivalry with each other ; and children 
of different ages, in the same family, belonged to 
different companies. Wherever there is human 
nature, there will be a degree of emulation, strife, 
and a desire to lessen others, that we may exalt 
ourselves. Dispassionate as my friends compara- 
tively were, and bred up in the highest attainable 



130 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

candour and innocence, they regarded the company- 
most in competition with their own, with a degree 
of jealous animosity. Each company, at a certain 
time of the year, went in a body to the hills, to 
gather a particular kind of berries. It was a sort 
of annual festival, attended with religious punctu- 
ality. Every company had a uniform for this 
purpose ; that is to say, very pretty light baskets 
made by the Indians, with lids and handles, which 
hung over the arm, and were adorned with various 
colours. One company would never allow the 
least degree of taste to the other in this instance ; 
and was sure to vent its whole stock of spleen in 
decrying the rival baskets. Nor would they ever 
admit, that the rival company gathered near so 
much fruit on these excursions as they did. The 
parents of these children seemed very much to en- 
courage this manner of marshalling and dividing 
themselves. Every child was permitted to enter- 
tain the whole company on its birthday, and once 
besides, during winter and spring. The master 
and mistress of the family always were bound to 
go from home on these occasions, while some old 
domestic was left to attend and watch over them, 
with an ample provision of tea, chocolate, preserved 
and dried fruits, nuts, and cakes of various kinds, 
to which was added cider or a syllabub, for these 
young friends met at four, and did not part till nine 



LBTTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 131 

or ten, and amused themselves with the utmost 
gayety and freedom, in any way their fancy dic- 
tated. Other children or young people visit occa- 
sionally, and are civilly treated, but they admit of 
no person that does not belong to the company. 
The consequence of these exclusive and early inti- 
macies was, that, grown up, it was reckoned a sort 
of apostacy to marry out of one's company, and in- 
deed, it did not often happen. The girls, from the 
example of their mothers, rather than any compul- 
sion, became very early, notable and industrious, 
being constantly employed in knitting stockings, 
and making clothes for the family and slaves : they 
even made all the boys' clothes. This was the 
more necessary, as all articles of clothing were ex- 
tremely dear. Though all the necessaries of life, 
and some luxuries, abounded, money as yet was a 
scarce commodity. This industry was the more 
to be admired, as children were here indulged to 
a degree that, in our vitiated state of society, would 
have rendered them good for nothing. But there, 
where ambition, vanity, and the more turbulent pas- 
sions were scarce awakened ; where pride, founded 
on birth, or any external pre-eminence, was hardly 
known; and where the affections flourished fair 
and vigorous, unchecked by the thorns and thistles 
with which our minds are cursed in a more ad- 
vanced state of refinement ; affection restrained pa- 



132 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

rents from keeping their children at a distance, and 
inflicting harsh punishments. But then they did 
not treat them like apes or parrots, by teaching 
them to talk with borrowed words and ideas, and 
afterward gratifying their own vanity by exhibit- 
ing these premature wonders to company, or re- 
peating their sayings. They were tenderly cher- 
ished, and early taught that they owed all their 
enjoyments to the divine source of beneficence, to 
whom they were finally accountable for their ac- 
tions ; for the rest, they were very much left to na- 
ture, and permitted to range about at full liberty in 
their earliest years, covered in summer with some 
slight and cheap garb, which merely kept the sun 
from them, and in winter with some warm habit, 
in which convenience only was consulted. Their 
dress of ceremony was never put on but when their 
company assembled. They were extremely fond 
of their children ; but, luckily for the latter, never 
dreamed of being vain of their immature wit and 
parts, which accounts, in some measure, for the 
great scarcity of coxcombs among them. The 
children returned the fondness of their parents with 
such tender affection, that they feared giving them 
pain as much as ours do punishment, and very 
rarely wounded their feelings by neglect, or rude 
answers. Yet the boys were often wilful and giddy 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 133 

at a certain age, the girls being sooner tamed and 
domesticated. 

" These youths were apt, whenever they could 
carry a gun, (which they did at a very early period,) 
to follow some favourite negro to the woods, and, 
while he was employed in felling trees, range the 
whole day in search of game, to the neglect of all 
intellectual improvement, and contract a love of 
savage liberty, which might, and in some instances 
did, degenerate into licentious and idle habits. In- 
deed, there were three stated periods in the year, 
when, for a few days, young and old, masters and 
slaves, were abandoned to unruly enjoyment, and 
neglected every serious occupation for pursuits of 
this nature." 

12 



LETTER XIV. 

Academies and Common Schools— Albany Academy for Boys 
— Dr. Beck — The Female Academy — Introduced by Mr. 
Crittenton to the different Departments — The plan of In- 
struction — Dr. Barber's System of Elocution — " The Lan- 
guage of the Flowers" a poetical effusion from a young 
Lady of the Academy — Description of the Building— Lo- 
cation, etc. — The Baptist Church — The old Capitol — Arch- 
itectural description of the new State Hall — Of St. Pauts 
Church — South Dutch Church — The Old Stone Pulpit- 
North Dutch Church. 

Albany, June 1, 1836. 

Friend P. — No state in the union surpasses 
New York, in the liberal provisions made for pri- 
vate education. There is scarcely a town or vil- 
lage, on the borders of the Hudson, that is not pro- 
vided with one or more Academies, High Schools, 
or other institutions of learning, which are libe- 
erally supported, and generally well managed. It 
is in the common school system that we are deficient. 
The rich and the middling classes are provided for 
while the poor are passed by, or almost entirely 
neglected. In New England, and particularly in 
Massachusetts, the common schools are of an ele- 
vated character, and are attended by all classes. 
The children of the rich and the poor meet to- 
gether ; they enjoy similar privileges and advan- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 135 

tages. In New York, no person of ordinary means 
would think of sending his children to a free school. 
The number is small in proportion to the popula- 
tion ; and were he ever so republican in his views, 
he would feel that he was depriving others, less 
able than himself, of the means of education. He 
therefore sends them to an Academy, and takes lit- 
tle or no interest in the management of the free 
schools. 

But efforts, I am happy to say, are being made 
to improve our common school system; and as 
New York is behind no state in splendid private 
institutions of learning, it will not, I trust, be long 
before she will at least equal any, in the number 
and excellence of her common schools. 

There are in Albany two Academies, one for 
boys, and the other for girls, which, I honestly be- 
lieve, are unsurpassed by any similar institutions 
in the country. The Boys' Academy has been 
under the management of Dr. T. R. Beck, since 
1817. It has been justly remarked of this institu- 
tion, that, in every thing but the name, it is on an 
equality with many of the colleges of our country. 
The building is considered the finest proportioned of 
any in the state. Dr. Beck, the principal, has dis- 
tinguished himself as an author. His address, de- 
livered in 1813, before the Society of Arts in Al- 
bany, contains the earliest systematic account of the 



136 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

minerals of our country. This address was pub- 
lished, and obtained for the author the meed of 
well earned praise. His work on the " Elements 
of Medical Jurisprudence," on its appearance some 
years since, created considerable excitement in 
England and America ; it aroused public attention 
to a long neglected subject, and was noticed in 
terms of high commendation in the " Edinburgh 
Medical and Surgical Journal." It has been trans- 
lated into German, and become the text-book on 
this subject, in the various Medical Colleges of 
Great Britain. Dr. Beck is one of the founders of 
the Albany Institute, " a scientific and literary as- 
sociation, which has already published the first 
volume of its transactions, highly creditable to it 
self and its members."* 

A few days since I visited the Female Academy, 
and was politely introduced to the different depart- 
ments by the worthy principal, Mr. Crittenton, and 
his assistant, the Rev. Robert McKee. Mr. C. has 
grown up with the institution, and appears to be 
enthusiastically devoted to it. The Academy is 
divided into six departments, exclusive of the classes 
composed of those scholars from each of the higher 
departments, who are pursuing the study of the 
French and Spanish languages, Natural History, 

* See " National Portrait Gallery," the editor of which has 
v ery properly introduced a portrait of Dr. Beck. 



LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 137 

Chemistry, and Botany. It appears to be of a use- 
ful and practical character. The studies pursued, 
and the arrangement of the departments, contribute 
to this end, as the proficiency of the great number 
of young ladies amply demonstrates. The text- 
book of the science taught, is the basis of the in- 
struction to be communicated, and the students are 
required to give extemporaneous illustrations of 
every important principle in the science under con- 
sideration, and also to give a general as well as a 
particular analysis of the author. 

The general direction of the Institution is com- 
mitted to a Principal ; besides, to each department 
there is attached a permanent teacher ; and when- 
ever the number of pupils renders it expedient, the 
department is divided, and a teacher appointed to 
each division. The teachers of Penmanship devote 
their time to the departments in rotation. Lectures 
are given in the winter terms on Chemistry and 
Experimental Philosophy ; in the summer terms, 
on Botany and Geology, by the Professor of Chem- 
istry and Natural Philosophy, and on Biblical An- 
tiquities, by the President. 

Instruction in Rhetoric and Composition, and in 
Sacred Music, is given by the respective Professors 
of these branches. 

Dr. Jonathan Barber, of Harvard College, has 
lately been appointed Professor of Elocution and 
12* 



138 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Composition in this institution. He has endeav- 
oured, and with success I am informed, to impress 
upon the minds of the young ladies, the importance 
of correct and impressive reading. Dr. Barber 
holds a high rank as an Elocutionist, but I advise 
him by all means to abandon Phrenology, a sci- 
ence which he is but illy adapted to teach. 1 con- 
sider his system of elocution really excellent, and 
I agree with the Regents in their report, that his 
mode of instruction is calculated to ensure a distinct 
and impressive utterance, and is not chargeable, as 
conducted by himself, with any tendency to pro- 
duce unnatural or affected reading ; that it is adapted 
to improve the physical powers of the voice, and 
give a distinct enunciation, which are particularly 
insisted on as necessary preliminaries to the higher 
grace of expression at which it aims ; that it in- 
volves also an analysis of the meaning and spirit of 
written language, with a view to its expression by 
the voice, by which an intelligent and attentive pu- 
pil may improve at the same time his powers of 
criticism and composition, thus exercising an im- 
portant influence in the improvement of the mind 
as well as of the voice. 

The principal, Mr. Crittenton, read to me spe- 
cimens of prose composition, which would have 
been creditable to a practised and even classic wri- 
ter. The muses, too, find worshippers among the 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 139 

fair daughters of this temple of learning. The 
effusions of two or three, at least, of the scholars, 
add to the value and interest of a literary period- 
ical* published here. The principal favoured me 
with two articles of poetry from a beautiful girlf 
in her sixteenth year. One of these pieces pos- 
sesses so much of the true spirit of poetry, that I 
cannot (especially as it has not been published) re- 
sist the temptation of introducing it in this place. 
The thoughts, if not original, are pure, and the lan- 
guage is simple and beautiful. The fair author 
has studied nature attentively, for one of her years, 
and with a poet's feelings ; like the bee, she educes 
good from the flowers. It is called 

" THE LANGUAGE OF THE FLOWERS." 

How is the book of Nature filled 
With lessons that we all may learn ! 

What precious precepts are instilled 
As each successive page we turn ! 

I love to walk at dawn of day, 
With open eye, and ear, and heart ; 

To list to what the flowers say, 
And learn the lessons they impart. 



* The Zodiac, a monthly Magazine, conducted with ability 
bv Mr. Bloodgood, and published by Erastus Perry, 
t Miss M. E. Gould. 



140 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

For flowers have a voice for me ; 

They many a holy lesson teach ; 
And better surely I should be 

If I but practised all and each. 

The fragrant herb on which I tread, 
Although I crush it to the ground, 

Will, as it raises up its head, 
With incense strew the air around. 

And thus I learn that Gratitude 
Should always in my heart abound j 

And, that for evil, greater good 
Should always in return be found. 

The violet, with azure eye, 
Says, strive not in this world to shine ; 

Far from its vain allurements fly, 
And let humility be thine. 

The daisy, with its velvet leaf, 

Its rays of purple, disk of gold, 
Says, " I am glorious, yet how brief! 

" In me a type of life behold." 

A flower has language in its bloom, 
And when it withers, droops, and dies, 

It says, You hasten to the tomb ; 
Prepare for death— Be early wise. 

Few cities in our country have more splendid 
edifices than Albany. It is a matter of consolation, 
after my perhaps too harsh delineation of character 
in a former epistle, to find something to praise. 

The Female Academy of which I have been 



JITTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 141 

speaking, ia really a beautiful and classical edifice. 
Its location is upon the west side of North Pearl 
street, nearly equi-distant from Maiden lane and 
Steuben street. It commands a capital view of 
the eastern part of the city and opposite shore of 
the Hudson. 

Tr;e plan of the building is about sixty-five feet 
by seventy-seven, including the portico, and the 
height about fifty-five feet, containing in all four 
stories and a cellar. The four stories are divided 
into sixteen spacious rooms ; with halls sufficient 
for the accommodation of the staircases, and com- 
munications to the several apartments. The front 
faces to the east, and is ornamented with a beau- 
ful Hexastyle portico of the Ionic order, which for 
sublimity of effect, and taste in arrangement, is not 
surpassed by any in the United States. The pro- 
portions of the columns, capitals, bases, and entab- 
lature, are taken from the temple on the Ilissus, 
the most beautiful example of the Ionic among the 
remains of antiquity. A flight of six steps of mar- 
ble supports the colonnade ; and this elevation, the 
great length of the columns, (which are forty feet,) 
the bold and lofty entablature, so well adapted to 
this order, give a majesty and effect to the front 
which can only be duly appreciated by a critical 
'examination. The angles are finished with antae ; 
and the ceiling of the pronaos or vestibule formed 



142 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

into a single panel, surrounded with an appro- 
priate entablature. 

The arrangement of the front windows, dividing 
the front into two stories instead of four, is judi- 
cious. If the front had been perforated for four 
tiers of windows, its architectural beauty would 
have been much impaired ; but by lengthening the 
windows, so that one serves to light two stories, as 
has been done, and throwing a transom across 
them at the intermediate floors, ornamented with 
Grecian fret, the beauty of the whole has been in- 
creased. 

The principal entrance into the interior, is from 
the vestibule above mentioned. The door is quite 
plain, no ornament being admitted which does not 
strictly accord with the general character of the 
front. The entrance is, nevertheless, spacious and 
convenient, and corresponds well with the Venitian 
windows above. A bold, well constructed stair- 
case, ascending to the fourth story, is presented im- 
mediately on entering the lower hall, and though 
divested of all fantastic ornament, it will be much 
admired on account of its strength and convenience, 
and the durable quality of the materials with which 
it is constructed- 

The finish of the rooms (the Exhibition room 
excepted) is plain, and of Grecian detail; and while 
all superfluous ornament has been studiously avoid- 



LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 143 

ed, strength, boldness, and propriety have been kept 
steadily in view. 

The Chapel exhibits a slight departure from 
that plainness of style which is a marked feature 
in the general finish of this edifice. But this slight 
variation creates no confusion. It seems in har- 
mony with the rest ; and while the shade of differ- 
ence is so small as scarcely to be noticed, you are 
presented with the most classically finished room 
in this city, and one probably not surpassed by any 
in the state. This room is thirty-seven by sixty- 
one feet, the ceiling about seventeen feet high, and 
the entrance by two spacious doors on the east side. 
It is lighted by a range of windows along the west 
side ; and the walls of the opposite side and end 
have recesses corresponding in number and loca- 
tion with the windows, which preserve a rigid sym- 
metry as regards the various openings. The doors, 
windows, and recesses, are finished with plain ca- 
sings, having pedimental lintels crowned with carv- 
ed mouldings. The plainness of the face of the ca- 
sings is relieved by patter es, or rosettes, a fashion- 
able and judicious ornament much used by the 
architects of antiquity. The ant&s and entablature 
with which this room is ornamented, are in imita- 
tion of those of the Erectheum, and cannot fail to 
attract particular attention. They exhibit a highly 
finished specimen of the Grecian Ionic, and display a 



144 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

judicious use of ornament without profusion ; and if 
this specimen of the Ionic order be contrasted with 
that used in the front portico, it will be readily con- 
ceded, that though the latter, on account of its bold- 
ness, should have preference in external decoration, it 
must yield the palm to the former for internal finish. 

The Baptist Church, on the same side of North 
Pearl street, and but a few doors from the Academy, 
gives a fine appearance to North Pearl street. The 
pediments of both buildings projecting at suitable 
distances from each other, enhance the effect, by 
relieving the monotony of the long line of dwelling 
houses in the neighbourhood, without materially 
obstructing the view of the whole, while they give 
to them the appearance of one construction. 

The Capitol is situated one hundred and twenty 
feet above the level of the Hudson. It cost $ 120,000. 
It is a substantial stone edifice of one hundred and 
fifty feet in length, ninety feet in breadth, fifty 
feet in height, consisting of two stories and a base- 
ment. The east part is adorned with a portico of 
the Ionic order, having four columns, three feet and 
eight inches in diameter, and thirty-three feet in 
height. In the hall of the Representatives and the 
Senate chamber, I noticed portraits of Washington, 
and of several of the governors of the state. 

The State Hall, which is to supply the place of 
the old Capitol, now nearly completed, will be a 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 145 

magnificent edifice. It covers an area of one hun- 
dred and thirty-eight by eighty-eight feet ; and con- 
tains four stories : the largest sides running nearly 
north and south, and the principal front facing 
west, towards the Academy park, and separated 
from it by Eagle street. The materials used in the 
construction are brick and stone, and the exterior is 
to be faced with cut stone from Mount Pleasant. 
The ceilings are to be arched with brick, which 
arches are to support the floors of the several sto- 
ries, rendering the whole fire-proof. The roof is 
to be covered with copper. The walls are made 
unusually thick, in order to resist the pressure of 
the internal arches and floors; and additional 
strength is gained by strong iron anchors at each 
floor, running longitudinally and transversely, and 
firmly leaded into the external walls. 

The principal and second stories are ornamented, 
externally, with Grecian antae, which rests upon 
the projecting die of the building, and extends up- 
wards to the attic story, and which supports the 
entablature extending round the building at the up- 
per termination of the two principal stories. The 
west front is to be ornamented by a well propor • 
tioned portico, comprising six Grecian Ionic col- 
umns, supported by the steps and platforms at the 
principal entrance, and surmounted by suitable pro- 
portioned entablature and pediment. 
13 



146 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

The east side will be ornamented by a similar 
pediment, supported by antae. A neat cornice ter- 
minates the attic story, surmounted by the parapet, 
which is intended to conceal the roof. 

A hemispherical dome, of forty feet diameter, 
containing the sash through which the light passes 
to the rotunda, terminates the upper part of the 
building. 

The basement story is to contain six rooms of 
twenty-two by thirty-three feet, and two dark rooms 
of the same dimensions, suitable for wood and coal ; 
also, two halls of twenty-two by thirty-three feet, 
and two of ten by fifteen feet, and an area under 
the rotunda in the centre of the building, of thirty- 
three feet diameter. The basement story is four 
teen feet high, including the arches and floors. 

The principal story contains six rooms of twenty- 
two by thirty-three feet, one room thirty-three by 
forty-seven feet, two rooms of thirteen by twelve 
feet, two halls ten by forty-five feet, and a hall of 
twenty-two by thirty-three feet ; which latter is at 
the principal entrance, and contains the staircases, 
and the rotunda, which is thirty-three feet diam- 
eter. 

The second and third stories each, contain nine 
rooms of twenty-two by thirty-three feet, a hall of 
twenty-two by thirty-three feet, and two halls of 
ten by forty-five feet, and the rotunda of thirty- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 147 

three feet diameter. The principal and second sto- 
ries, including the floors and arches, will occupy 
twenty-two feet each in height ; the attic story wiH 
be fourteen feet in the clear. The whole height 
of the building, above the side-walk at the west 
front, will be about sixty-five feet ; the declivity of 
the ground eastward, will increase the height of 
the east side to about seventy-four feet. I am 
not aware that any appropriation of the rooms has 
been made as regards the different public offices ; 
it is probable, however, that the large room, and 
two of those of twenty-two by thirty-three feet, will 
be required by the comptrollor, for the business 
connected with his office ; two will be required by 
the secretary ; the attorney-general, the treasurer, 
surveyor- general, the adjutant -general, register in 
chancery, and the clerk of the supreme court, will 
each require one 5 leaving four for future exigen- 
cies of the state. 

The interior is to be furnished in a plain style, 
in all respects suited to the purpose of public of- 
fices. 

The rotunda will have an estrade or gallery, ex« 
tending round it at the second and third story floors, 
and enclosed by iron railings, to afford the neces- 
sary communications between the hall, which cen- 
tre at that point. It is probable that iron, in place 
of stone, will be used in constructing the principal 



148 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

staircases, which commence at the right and left 
of the hall, near the principal entrance, and termi- 
nate in the third story. 

St. Paul's Church, at the corner of South Ferry 
and Dallias streets, is a fine specimen of the Gothic 
style of architecture. It is eighty-four feet long, 
sixty-two wide ; the height of the walls to the cor- 
nice is thirty-two feet, with a semi-octagonal ves- 
tibule projecting sixteen feet, and rising to the front 
pediment of the main roof. The building is of 
rough unwrought stone, (from two to three and a 
half feet thick.) The design is from an ancient 
Gothic temple. The original plan embraces the 
erection of a stone tower in the rear, of twenty-two 
feet square, elevated two sections above the belfry ; 
to be surmounted with turrets to correspond with 
those on the main building. There are five win- 
dows on each side, and two in front, supported by 
centre ends, diverging at the head, so as to form 
three distinct Gothic arches to the casements and 
frames of each window. The mullions are diag- 
onally disposed, and contain glass of five and a 
quarter inches square. The angles of the walls, 
and the partition wall at the landing of the gallery 
stairs, are supported by buttresses of two feet 
square; having in each three abutments, capped 
with cut stone, and surmounted with quadrangular 
Gothic pinnacles. The nave is finished with a 






LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 149 

deep Gothic frieze and cornice, and the parapet 
carried up in the form of battlements. 

On the right and left of the entrance way, are 
niches prepared for statuary. The front door is 
ten feet wide, on each side of which are columns 
supporting the arch of a window above the impost 
of the door. The naves of the vestibule roof are 
finished with cornice and chain work, and the an- 
gles surmounted with pinnacles. 

The interior finish is also Gothic, painted in im- 
itation of oak. Below are one hundred and twenty- 
eight lens, and sixty-six in the gallery. The screen 
is twenty-four feet wide, supported by four octa- 
gonal Gothic columns, in panel work, and rising 
about eighteen feet from the chancel floor. The 
■columns are finished at the top with pinnacles, or- 
namented and enriched with carved leaves and 
vines ; in the centre of the screen, and immediately 
over the pulpit, there rises a pediment supported by 
clustered columns and an arch ; the pediment is also 
surmounted with a richly ornamented pinnacle ex- 
tending to the ceiling, and standing in relief, in 
a niche prepared to receive it. The top of the 
screen and basis of the pinnacle are finished with 
castellated battlements, and the panel rests in 
icjuatre foils. 

The South Dutch Church, situated between 
Hudson and Beaver streets, is a superb edifice, ex- 
13* 



150 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

hibiting one of the finest specimens in the art of 
building to be found in Albany. It cost about 
$100,000, and is the property of the Dutch Re- 
formed congregations. The entire pulpit of the 
old stone church of this society, founded in 1656, 
was brought over from Holland, and though the 
edifice is demolished, yet that identical pulpit is 
still in existence. It serves the same purpose in 
our day that it did upwards of a century and a half 
ago. 

The North Dutch Church, on the west side of 
Pearl street, has been erected many years, and be- 
longs to the same congregation. It is a large 
Greek edifice, well proportioned ; it has two stee- 
ples, and cost about $50,000. 

Yours, &c. 



LETTER XV. 

Revisit Poughkeepsie — Rapid Progress of Improvement- 
New Silk Factory — Inventive genius of Gen. Harvey — 
Patent Screw Company — Coining Money — Patent Saw 
for felling trees— Patent Stock Frames— Advantages of 
Poughkeepsie, etc. — Report of the Inspectors of grain — 
Dutchess Plains — Scenery— Poetry— Ride to Hyde Park- 
Derivation of the name — The late Dr. Hosack's place — 
Churches and population— Cultivated grounds— Death of 
Dr. Hosack, etc. 

Poughkeepsie, June 2, 1936. 

Friend P. — It is some months since I visited 
this most thriving village ; and the progress of im- 
provement has been so rapid since, that it seems 
years rather than months. Accompanied by my 
intelligent young friend, Hatch, of the Poughkeep- 
sie Hotel, I rode over almost every part of the vil- 
lage, and was surprised at the number of new 
streets and squares, which were being laid out and 
graded under the eye of the "improvement party," 
as it is aptly termed. Preparations appear to be ma- 
king for a constantly progressive, and even rapid in- 
crease of population ; and the plans for manufac- 
turing companies seem to warrant it.* The ex- 

! * The following remarks from the Poughkeepsie Eagle, 
give a pretty correct idea of the disposition of the inhabitants 
generally, to receive new-comers. It speaks, at least, the 



152 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

tensive silk factory, owned by a company with a 
capital of $200,000, is completed, and nearly ready 
to commence operations. Gen. Harvey, a skilful 
machinist, and the inventer of some half score of 
*' Yankee contrivances," has got up a screw com- 
pany, with a capital of $200,000, which promises 
not a little towards the future prospects of the place. 
The screws are made by the machinery of Gen. 
H.'s invention, and with astonishing facility. The 
whole being accomplished by three rapid applica- 
tions of the machinery. The first cuts the screw 

language and sentiments of the "improvement party" on this 
head. 

" We repeat this remark, that a hearty welcome should be 
extended to every new-comer, whatever be his business or 
calling. We do so because, in this respect, our town has got 
the name, whether justly or not we will not pretend to say, 
of being rather chary in our favours ; and because, if true, it 
does not tend to any public advantage. A stranger meeting 
with a cold salutation, or with silent neglect, and who has 
to encounter those narrow and aristocratic prejudices which 
circumscribe the social circle and exclude him from its enjoy- 
ments, will not find his situation so pleasant as to make it 
an object to remain here, if there are other places where he 
can do as well in business. When a stranger settles among 
us, there should be no waiting for this family or that famiiy to 
make his acquaintance, which, being done, gives time for the 
growth of discontentment or disgust, but the hand of friend- 
ship should be immediately extended, and that respect offered 
which merit claims. Our true policy therefore is, to do all 
things to encourage the settlement of strangers among us, 
and to use every means to make their residence both agree- 
able and profitable." 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 153 

from the wire, and forms the head; the second 
forms the groove, and finishes the head; and the 
third makes the screw, and turns out a highly pol- 
ished and beautiful article, far superior to the Eng- 
glish screws made by hand. It is expected that 
this establishment will manufacture not less than 
twenty thousand gross per week, and give steady 
employment to three hundred hands. I saw in the 
same establishment a machine for coining money, 
made for the government mint — the model of a saw 
for felling trees, invented for the express benefit ot 
a "down east" company of speculators — a machine 
for turning out horse-shoes, perfect, with only one 
speedy operation — and a large number of machines 
for weaving stock frames were in. the " full tide ot 
successful operation," all productions of Gen. Har- 
vey's fertile genius. The admirers of mechanical 
skill, and the curious generally, who visit Pough- 
keepsie, should not pass this repository of the " use- 
ful arts" by. Mr. Goodell, the partner of the in- 
venter, is a most intelligent, affable gentleman, and 
appears to take pleasure in exhibiting and unfold- 
ing the mysteries of the place. 

With a rich and fertile country around — the fa 
cilities of communication with the commercial em- 
porium of the country — the invincible spirit of en- 
terprise legitimately belonging to the "improve- 
ment party," but now leavening the whole lump, it 



154 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON." 

were difficult to trace, even in imagination, the des- 
tined prosperity and greatness of this village and 
its vicinity. Notwithstanding there is but little 
water power here, it is estimated by shrewd, care- 
ful calculators, that any branch of manufacturing 
can be carried on by steam to any extent, with far 
greater economy than in your Manchester of 
America, Lowell* 

The annual report of the inspector of grain in 
the city of New York, furnishes some interesting 
official evidence of the " conspicuous rank occupied 
by old Dutchess among her sister counties." From 

* At this time there are twenty-three cotton and woollen 
manufactories in the county of Dutchess, the annual value 
of the manufactured articles in which is $621,102 61 ; the value 
of the raw material $284,235 ; and the number of yards of 
cloth manufactured 2,396,863. There is one dying and print- 
ing factory, consuming of the raw material $650,000, and 
yielding manufactured articles to the value of $750,000 annu- 
ally. Of iron works there are six, consuming of the raw ma- 
terial $116,330, and yielding the value of $233,800. There are 
five trip-hammers, which consume $4,740, and yield $12,700. 
Of grist mills, saw mills, fulling mills, carding machines, clo- 
ver mills, paper mills, and tanneries, there are two hundred 
and fifty-four, the value of the raw material consumed annu- 
ally in which is $807,386, and the annual product $979,918 16. 
There is also one brewery, which consumes of the raw ma- 
terial $65,000, and yields $92,000. There are, therefore, in this 
county at the present time, of the various kinds of manufac- 
tories and hydraulic works, two hundred and ninety ; which 
annually consume in the raw material, the value of $1,927,416, 
and yield a product of $2,689,521 57. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 155 

this report it appears, that the whole quantity of 
grain received in the city during the year amounts 
to 3,350,788 bushels. 

Of this quantity 2,309,307 bushels were received 
from the several counties of this state, and 1,041,481 
bushels from the other states of the union, and from 
foreign countries. 

Of the 2,309,307 bushels received from the sev- 
eral counties of this state, 838,043 bushels, or con- 
siderably more than one third of the whole, was 
furnished by Dutchess county. 

From all parts of the state, except the three 
counties of Dutchess, Columbia, and Rensselaer, 
there were received 734,522 bushels, being less by 
more than 100,000 bushels than was received from 
Dutchess alone. 

It further appears, that of all the grain received 
into the city from every place, one quarter was sup- 
plied by the county of Dutchess. 

By turning to the inspector's report for 1833, we 
find the whole quantity of grain received in the 
city from Dutchess was 479,532 bushels, from 
which it will appear that the surplus of grain sent 
to market from the county, has very nearly doubled 
in two years. 

But the quantity of grain as shown by the in- 
spector's report, falls very far short of showing the 
entire surplus grain product of the county. A 



156 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

great many thousand bushels are annually sent di- 
rectly from Poughkeepsie to the several towns on 
the New England seaboard. Large quantities of 
corn and rye are ground, and sent to New York 
in the meal — and still larger quantities of oats and 
corn are ground, and sent to New York as feed 
for horses, cows, &c. And nearly all the grain of 
the several towns bordering on Connecticut, finds 
a market in the manufacturing districts of that 
state. Not a bushel that is shipped direct to New 
England, or goes to the city as meal, or as feed-, or 
that is sent to Connecticut, is embraced in the in- 
spector's report ; if it were, Dutchess county would 
probably be found, instead of 838,043 bushels, to 
have sent abroad during the past year, not less than 
1,300,000 bushels. 

The " Dutchess Plains," two miles below the 
village, furnishes some delightful sites for country 
seats, where the wealthy and the refined may re- 
tire in the summer season, from the "din and dust" 
of the city, and enjoy the magnificent, the soul- 
enlivening scenery, which meets the eye in every 
direction. Indeed, there are on the borders of the 
Hudson, from its rise to its mouth, localities of un- 
rivalled beauty, — where the good man may breathe 
into the ear of heaven, the devout adorations awa- 
kened in his soul by all " above, around, and below 
him;" where the invalid may court and win 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 157 

smiling health; where the botanist may walk in 
the garden of the flowers, and cull the sweets of 
rural science; and the philosopher, and the devotee 
of pleasure, may, alike, gratify the desires of the 
heart and the eye. The Hudson, with its romantic, 
its diversified scenery, rendered interesting by rev- 
olutionary reminiscences, furnishes inexhaustible 
materials for the poet and the painter. I have 
passed up and down its waters a hundred times ; I 
have repeatedly wandered along its shores for miles, 
and every time I find some new prospect to ad- 
mire, or some new incident to interest. One of the 
most graphic descriptions of some of the appear- 
ances of this noble river, recently appeared in the 
"Knickerbocker;" it is so pertinent to the train 
of my thoughts at this time, and possesses so many 
evidences of true poetry, that I cannot forbear quo- 
ting it entire ; and this I do the more cheerfully, 
Under an impression that it may, perchance, atone 
for my common-place thoughts or crude remarks. 

THE HUDSON. 

Proud stream ! the birchen barks that wont of old 
From cove to cove to shoot athwart thy tide, 

The quivered nations^ eloquent and bold, 
Whose simple fare thy shores and depths supplied, 

Are passed away ; and men of other mould 
Now o'er thy bosom their wing'd fabrics guide, 
14 



158 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

All white with sails thy keel-thronged waters flee, 
Through one rich lapse of plenty to the sea. 

Beauty and Majesty on either hand 

Have shored thy waters with their common realm ' 
Here pasture, grove, and harvest-field expand, 

There, the rough boatman veers his yielding helili 
From the sheer cliff, whose shadow broad and grand 

Darkens his sail, and seems his path to whelm 
With doubt and gloom ; till through some wild ravine, 
A gush of sunlight leaps upon the scene! 

I love thy tempests, when the broad- winged blast 

Rouses thy billows with his battle call, 
When gathering clouds, in phalanx black and vast, 

Like armed shadows gird thy rocky wall, 
And from their leaguering legions thick and fast 

The galling hail-shot in fierce volleys fall, 
While quick, from cloud to cloud, darts o'er the levin 
The flash that fires the batteries of heaven ! 

How beauteous art thou, when, at rosy dawn, 
Up from thy glittering breast its robe of mist 

Into the azure depths is gently drawn, 
Or softly settles o'er thy bluffs, just kiss'd 

By the first slanting beams of golden morn ; 
Gorgeous— when ruby, gold, and amethyst 

Upon thy tasselated surface lie — 

The wave-glassed splendours of the sun-set sky! 

A nd when the moon through wreaths of curdled snow, 
Upon thee pours a flood of silver sheen, 

While the tall headlands vaster seem to grow, 
As on thy breast their giant shadows lean. 

There is a mournful music in thy flow; 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 159 

And I have listened mid the hallowed scene, 
Until lov'd voices seemed, in murmurs bland, 
Hailing me softly from the spirit land. 

The deep Missouri hath a fiercer song, 

The Mississippi pours a bolder wave, 
And with a deaf ning crash the torrent strong, 

From the linked lakes, leaps to Niagara's grave ; 
Yet when the storm-king smites his thundering gong, 

Thy hills reply from many a bellowing cave ; 
And when with smiles the sun o'erlooks their brow, 
He sees no stream more beautiful than thou. 



The ride to Hyde Park, about six miles north 
of Poughkeepsie, is very pleasant. The elegant 
mansions, the extended plains, and the highly cul- 
tivated grounds you pass, render the route really 
delightful. The village or town of Hyde Park, 
derived its name from the place owned by the late 
Dr. Hosack. Dr. Bard, the original proprietor, 
gave it that name ; and when the town of Clinton 
was divided into three separate villages, this town 
assumed the name of Hyde Park. 

The mansion and grounds of the late Dr. Ho- 
sack, occupy a space of about seven hundred acres. 
It is a princely place, extending a mile from the 
village north, and about the same distance from the 
river east. The mansion is built on an extensive 
plain, and surrounded by trees and shrubbery of 
every variety. The grounds along the Albany 



160 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

river road, on either side, are shaded with large lo- 
cust trees. A retired spot of the grounds of this 
great estate is occupied with a neat little Episcopal 
chapel, and the mansion of the rector. This was 
given to the society by Dr. Bard. Its location is 
quite rural. There are three other churches in 
the town, a Methodist, a Dutch Reformed, and 
Quaker or Friends. The population of the town 
is about two thousand six hundred ; but in the vil- 
lage there are perhaps not more than five hundred 
inhabitants. Judge Pendleton, Hamilton Wilkes, 
Thos. Williams, and E. Holbrook, Esqrs., have all 
beautiful mansions, and highly cultivated grounds. 
Dr. Hosack's place is to be sold, and will probably 
be divided into lots, and furnish ample space for a 
dozen mansions as summer residences for our New 
York city gentry. The New York and Albany 
boats land at Hyde Park, about half a mile from 
the village. 

The "American National Portrait Gallery" con- 
tains a portrait, and brief biographical sketch of 
this distinguished medical practitioner and author. 
The author of the sketch says, that in 1830, Dr. 
Hosack concluded to retire from practice, and with 
that view purchased the elegant estate of his patron, 
Dr. Bard, at Hyde Park, on the banks of the Hud- 
son, where he resided from May to November, en- 
gaged in cultivating his farm, and improving and 



ABOUT THE HUDSON. 161 

beautifying his pleasure grounds, and extensive bo- 
tanical garden. His extensive and practical know- 
ledge as a florist, connected with wealth and a re- 
fined taste, has rendered his garden second to none 
in the union ; and here, in the bosom of his family, 
he enjoyed in retirement the bright reward of un- 
sullied renown, which he had earned by a life of 
unceasing activity, in developing the hidden virtues, 
and administering the efficient power of a science 
which is of the first importance to his fellow-men. 
But the mighty conqueror, whose hand is stayed 
not. by worldly grandeur or moral worth, broke in 
upon his repose, and on Tuesday night, the 29th 
of December, 1835, he expired at his residence in 
New York, at the age of sixty-six years. On 
Tuesday, of the preceding week, he remarked to a 
friend, that his health was most excellent, and had 
been so for some time. On Friday morning he 
felt rather unwell, but after taking his breakfast he 
went out a short distance, transacted some busi- 
ness, and returned to ride out in his wagon. He 
was suddenly seized with fainting, and soon after 
an apoplectic shock, attended with paralysis, from 
which time he lingered until Tuesday evening, the 
period of his demise. He had been anticipating 
the event for more than a year, although his health 
was good ; but there were symptoms which, as a 
skilful physician, he could not mistake. 
14* 



162 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

As a physician and man of science, his name 
was universally honoured as the first ; as a citizen, 
his many virtues and excellences of character have 
made a deep impression upon the hearts of thou- 
sands, and he has left a blank in the scientific and 
social world, which few men can supply with equal 
ability. " He was always observant of the strict, 
est punctuality in the performance of his numerous 
and various engagements, having scarcely ever 
been known either to omit the performance of his 
duty, or to be absent five minutes after the time pre- 
scribed for his attendance." It was an observation 
of his, that the more a man has to do, the better he 
does it, and the more punctual he is in the perform- 
ance. His habits of early rising and strict tem- 
perance, have been the most effectual means in en- 
abling him to perform the many arduous tasks 
which he has so successfully accomplished. 

Soon after he retired from practice, he was invi- 
ted by some of his friends to enter the political 
arena, and attach himself to one of the political par- 
ties then existing, but he declined by thus express- 
ing his sentiments : " If a party could be formed 
favourable to the interests of education, of agricul- 
ture, and the commercial character of our state ; 
to the development of its natural resources and 
promotion of internal improvements; to such a 
party I could not hesitate to avow my allegiance, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 163 

and to devote the best exertions of which I am ca- 
pable, to advance the interests of my native state 
and country : but under existing dissensions, I must 
decline all connexion with our political institu- 
tions, and devote myself to the cultivation of the 
vine and the fig-tree, as more conducive to my own 
happiness and that of my family.' 



LETTER XVI. 

How the writer obtained the History of the Military Academy 
at West Point— Lt. Roswell Park— West Point a place 
of interest — Hallowed by Washington, Kosciusko, Lafay- 
ette, etc. — View of West Point after entering the Moun- 
tain Gap above — The Monuments — Links of the chain- 
broken by the British vessels in 1777 — Early History of the 
Academy — The Officers — Practical considerations ■which 
slwuld influence those who are seeking or who may gain 
admission to the Military Academy, etc. 

West Point, June 10, 1836. 

Friend P. — In 1834, 1 was associated with two 
gentlemen in the editorial management of a monthly" 
magazine ; in soliciting contributions for the pages 
of the work, I applied to an early and intimate 
friend,* for a description and some account of West 
Point and the Military School. The desired in- 
formation was cheerfully furnished, and published. 
It was drawn up with the accustomed ability of the 
writer, and from his perfect familiarity with the 
scenes described, as well as the facts introduced, it 
was considered the most full and accurate account 
of the institution that had ever appeared in print. 

* Lt. Roswell Park, a graduate of West Point Academy, 
who has since distinguished himself not only as a gentleman 
of general intelligence, but especially as a lecturer on civil 
engineering. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON.' 165 

I have mentioned these circumstances as an apol- 
ogy for using the facts, and occasionally the lan- 
guage, contained in this account. These facts, to- 
gether with what I have been able to gather from 
a hasty visit to the place, will form the materials 
of my present epistle. 

West Point is a spot of peculiar interest. It has 
been hallowed by the footsteps of a Washington, a 
Kosciusko, and a Lafayette ; it is consecrated by 
a nation to the Spartan-like training of a few devo- 
ted sons from every state of our wide spread union; 
nor less sacredly secluded by nature as the scene 
of retirement and study : it seems alike calculated 
to please the pensive sage and the aspiring youth- 
ful soldier ; while even female loveliness vouch- 
safes to paint its memories in lines of hope and 
brightness, as " the boast of a glory hallowed 
land." 

11 Bright are the moments link'd with thee, 
Boast of a glory hallowed land ; 
Hope of the valiant and the free, 
Home of their youthful soldier band. 

The view of West Point as you enter the Moun- 
tain Gap, after you leave Newburgh, is delightful. 
In the fore ground is the new spacious hotel ;* be- 

* An excellent well-managed house, by Mr. Cozzens, a gen« 
tleman highly esteemed by all visiters at West Point. 



166 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

yond it are the academic, halls, the barracks, chapel, 
and mess house, appropriated to the cadets ; and on 
the right, are the comfortable dwellings occupied 
by the officers of the academy. On the left, at the 
angle of the plain, are traces of Fort Clinton ; and 
on the right, towering far above Camptown, the 
suburb occupied by soldiers and citizens, stands 
Fort Putnam, on mount Independence, venerable in 
its ruins — "stern monument of a sterner age," 
which survived the attempts of treason and the as- 
saults of bravery, only to yield its hallowed mate- 
rials to the desecration of a rapacious owner.* Of 
the three monuments which now meet your eye, 
the one on the right and nearest to you, on a pro- 
jecting tongue of land bordered with thick groves, 
is the Cadet's Monument, erected to the memory of 
the deceased officers and cadets of the academy. 
It cost $12,000. The centre one, near the flag- 
staff, is a cenotaph, erected by General Brown to 
the memory of Colonel Eleazar D. Wood, an early 
and distinguished graduate of the academy, who 
fell at the 6ortie of Fort Erie, in 1814. And the 
monument on the left, over the levelled redoubt or 
citadel of Fort Clinton, is sacred to Kosciusko. It 



* Some years ago, the owner of the land on which Fort 
Putnam was located, proceeded to demolish the fort, using 
the materials for fences, &c. to compel the government to 
purchase it at an exorbitant price. This was finally done. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 1G7 

was completed in 1829, by the corps of cadets, at 
an expense of near $5000. Just beyond the wharf, 
is the rock alluded to in my letter 'about' Cold 
Spring, from which the chain was stretched across 
the river in time of the revolution, to prevent the 
passage of British vessels. They broke it, how- 
ever, in 1777, when they forced the passage of the 
highlands; and some links of it, near three feet 
long, and of bar-iron near two inches square, are 
still preserved in the statehouse as a revolutionary 
relic. 

The Military Academy was contemplated at an 
early period of our national existence, with a view 
to the preservation of military knowledge, and the 
enforcement of a uniform discipline in our army. 
As early as 1790, General Knox, then secretary 
of war, in a report on the organization of the mi 
litia, says : " Either efficient institutions must be 
established for the military education of youth, and 
the knowledge acquired therein be diffused through- 
out the country by the means of rotation ; or the 
militia must be formed of substitutes, after the man- 
ner of the militia of Great Britain. If the United 
States possess the vigour of mind to establish the first 
institution, it may be reasonably expected to pro- 
duce the most unequivocal advantages. A glorious 
national spirit will be introduced, with its extensive 
train of political consequences." In 1793, General 



168 LETTERS ABOUT TttE HUDSON. 

Washington, in his annual message to Congress, 
suggests the inquiry, " whether a material feature 
in the improvement" of the system of military de- 
fence, " ought not to be, to afford an opportunity 
for the study of those branches of the art, which 
can scarcely ever be attained by practice alone." 
And in his annual message of 1796, he says: 
" The institution of a military academy is also re- 
commended by cogent reasons. However pacific 
the general policy of a nation may be, it ought 
never to be without an adequate stock of military 
knowledge for emergencies. Whatever argument 
may be drawn from particular examples, superfi- 
cially viewed, a thorough examination of the sub- 
ject will evince that the art of war is extensive and 
complicated ; that it demands much previous study ; 
and that the possession of it, in its most improved 
and perfect state, is always of great moment to the 
security of a nation. This, therefore, ought to be 
a serious care of every government ; and for this 
purpose, an academy, where a regular course or 
instruction is given, is an obvious expedient, which 
different nations have successfully employed." 

On the 7th of May, 1794, Congress passed an 
act providing for a corps of artillerists and engineers, 
to consist of four battalions, to each of which, eight 
cadets were to be attached ; making it the duty of 
the secretary of war to procure, at the public ex' 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 169 

pense, the necessary books, instruments, and appa- 
ratus, for the use and benefit of said corps. This 
was the first introduction of cadets as a grade of 
officers in the army of the United States. The 
term cadet, derived from the French, signifying a 
younger son, was previously applied in England 
to those young gentlemen who, seeking the situa- 
tion, were trained for public employment, particu- 
larly in the service of the East India Company. 
In our own army it signifies an officer ranking be- 
tween a lieutenant and a sergeant ; this grade hav- 
ing been confined to the pupils of the military 
academy since its establishment. 

In 1798, Congress authorized the raising of an. 
additional regiment of artillerists and engineers, 
and increased the number of cadets to fifty-six. In 
July of the same year, the President was empowered, 
by another act, to appoint four teachers of the arts 
and sciences, necessary for the instruction of this 
corps. Thus, although the cadets were not col- 
lected in one point, nor buildings erected for pur- 
poses of education ; still, the principle upon which 
the present institution rests was fully sanctioned ; a 
new grade was created in the army to which young 
men were exclusively entitled to be admitted ; and 
means were provided for their education in the sci- 
ence of war, that they might be fitted for stations 
of command. 

15 



170 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



The military academy was established by an act 
of Congress, of March 1 6th, 1802, by which the 
military peace establishment was determined. By 
this act, the artillerists and engineers were made to 
constitute two distinct corps. To the corps of en- 
gineers were attached ten cadets. The 27th sec- 
tion provided, that the said corps, when organized, 
" shall be stationed at West Point, in the State of 
New York, and shall constitute a military acad- 
emy." It is also provided, that the senior engineer 
officer present shall be superintendent of the acad- 
emy ; and authorized the purchase of the necessary 
books, implements, and apparatus, for the use and 
benefit of the institution. In the following year, 
another act, dated February 28, 1803, empowered 
the President to appoint one teacher of the French 
language, and one teacher of drawing. 

Six years after, Mr. Jefferson, then President, 
and who had previously expressed some doubts of 
the constitutionality of the academy, thus calls the 
attention of Congress to the subject of its welfare : 
" The scale on which the military academy at West 
Point was originally established, is become too lim- 
ited to furnish the number of well instructed sub- 
jects in the different branches of artillery and en- 
gineering, which the public service calls for. The 
chief engineer, having been instructed to consider 
the subject, and to propose an augmentation, which 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 171 

might render the establishment commensurate with 
the present circumstances of the country, has made 
his report, which I now transmit for the considera- 
tion of Congress. The plan suggested by him of 
removing the institution to this place, (Washington,) 
is also worthy of attention. Besides the advantage 
of placing it under the immediate eye of the gov- 
ernment, it may render its benefits common to the 
naval department; and will furnish opportunities 
of selecting, on better information, the characters 
most qualified to fulfil the duties which the public 
service may call for." The proposal to remove 
the academy to Washington, like several subsequent 
ones, was promptly negatived ; but on the above 
recommendation, an act was passed, increasing the 
corps of cadets by one hundred and fifty-six addi- 
tional members. 

And in 1812, after the favourable notice of Pres- 
ident Madison, Congress passed an act, dated April 
29, which declares that "the military academy 
shall consist of the corps of engineers, and the fol- 
lowing professors and assistants, in addition to the 
teachers of French and drawing already provided 
for, viz. : A professor of experimental and natural 
philosophy; a professor of mathematics ; a professor 
of the art of engineering ; with an assistant for 
each." A chaplain was also to be appointed, and 
required to officiate as professor of geography, eth- 



172 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

ics, and history. The number of cadets was lim- 
ited to two hundred and sixty; the prerequisites for 
admission, the term of study and service, and the 
rate of pay and emoluments were prescribed. 

Such were the essential provisions for establish- 
ing the military academy; and notwithstanding- 
repeated efforts to change them, they still remain 
unaltered. The documentary history above given, 
is extracted from Col. Johnson's able report to the 
House of Representatives, dated May 17, 1834; a 
document, which shows in detail how fully this in- 
stitution has received the sanction and support of 
all the great statesmen of our nation, from the first 
establishment of our federal government. It also 
shows how unfounded are the prejudices which 
have been locally excited against the academy; 
and how substantial have been the benefits by which 
it has sought to repay the country for her maternal 
care and support. 

The old buildings first occupied by the academy 
are long since gone to decay, and demolished. In 
1812, the jurisdiction of two hundred and fifty 
acres of land, was ceded by New York to the Uni- 
ted States; and an appropriation of $12,000 hav- 
ing been made for the erection of quarters, the 
mess-hall, chapel, and south barracks, were begun, 
and completed in the following year. The three 
brick edifices nearest the mess-hall, were erected in 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



175 



1815-16, and the other three nearest the flag-staff^ 
on the same line, in 1820-21. The north bar- 
racks were built in 1 8 1 7. Of the three stone dwell- 
ings west of the flag-staff, the farthest was erected 
in 1821 ; the others in 1825-26. The hospital 
-and hotel were built in 1828-29; and the ordnance 
or gun-house, in 1830. Appropriations have been 
made for a gymnasium and a chapel, which are 
now under construction. The water-works, for 
supplying all the buildings with water, or extin- 
guishing fire, were completed in 1830, at an ex- 
pense of $4,500. The annual expense of the acad- 
emy is stated at $115,000; averaging about $425 
for each cadet. This is one fourth less than the 
average cost of each cadet, prior to 1817, which 
was not less than $550 per annum. The library 
is well selected, of military, scientific, and historical 
works, containing nearly ten thousand volumes. 
The philosophical apparatus lately received from 
France is extensive, and constructed with the latest 
improvements. 

Our biographical history of the academy shall 
be brief. Its superintendence was intrusted, in its 
early stages, to General Jonathan Williams, ex- 
officio, as chief of the corps of engineers. During 
this period, from 1802 to 1812, the number of ca- 
dets was small, and the total number of graduates 
was only seventy-one. This may satisfactorily 
15* 



172 

LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

answer the question, why do we not find more of 
them among the distinguished men of our country. 
The only professors recorded during this period, 
are George Barron, and afterward Francis R. 
Hassler, professors of mathematics; Francis De 
Masson, teacher of French, and Christian E. Zoel- 
ler, of drawing. Mr. Hassler is now employed by 
the government on a trigonometrical survey of our 
coast. 

From 1812 to 1815, the academy was placed un- 
der the direction of the succeeding chief engineer, 
General Joseph G. Swift. Among the professors, 
were the Rev. Adam Empie, chaplain ; Andrew 
Ellicott, professor of mathematics; Col. Jared Mans- 
field, professor of natural philosophy; and Capt. 
Alden Partridge, professor of engineering. 

In 1815, Capt. Alden Partridge was appointed 
superintendent of the academy ; the chief engineer 
being, as at present, its Inspector, ex-officio. The 
only new professor appointed was Claudius Be- 
rard, teacher of French. 

Some traits of Capt. Partridge's character ren- 
dering a change desirable, he was relieved from his 
station in 1817; and succeeded by Col. Sylvanus 
Thayer, of the corps of engineers ; a gentleman 
every way qualified by nature and by acquirements, 
both at home and abroad, for this responsible duty. 
Under his superintendence, an improved system of 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON.' 175 

discipline was introduced; the course of studies 
much extended, so as to compare favourably with 
that of foreign military schools; and the studies 
required came to be thoroughly taught. Colonel 
Thayer assiduously devoted all his resources to 
the advancement of the academy, until 1833, when, 
at his own request, he was honourably relieved 
from this station, and appointed to direct the erec- 
tion of fortifications in Boston harbour. He was 
succeeded in the superintendence of the academy 
by Major R. E. De Russey, of the corps of engi- 
neers, a gentleman of amiable character and exten- 
sive acquirements. 

The chief professors of the academy not yet men- 
tioned, are: chaplains, Rev. T. Picton, 1818, Rev. 
C. P. Mcllvaine, 1825, now Episcopal Bishop ot 
Ohio, and Rev. Thos. Warner, 1828; professors 
of engineering, Claude Crozet, 1817, since chief 
civil engineer of Virginia, Major David B. Doug- 
lass, 1823, now civil engineer, and Dennis H. 
Malan, 1831 ; professor of natural philosophy, Ed- 
ward H. Courtenay; professor of mathematics, 
Charles Davis, 1821; acting professors of chemis- 
try, Dr. James Cutbush, 1820, Dr. John Torrey, 
1824, and Lieut. W. Fenn Hopkins, 1828; teach- 
ers of drawing, Thos. Gimbrede, 1819, Charles 
R. Leslie, R. A. 1833, and Robert W. Weir, 1834. 

The total number of graduates, from its estab- 



176 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

lishment to July, 1834, inclusive, is seven hundred 
and eighty-five. Of this number, four hundred 
and thirty-four were in the service at the latter date, 
as officers of the army ; nine have been killed in 
battle ; eighty-four died in service ; two hundred 
and eight have resigned ; and the remainder are 
disbanded or otherwise dismissed from the service. 
Of those who sleep on the battle-field, Col. Wood, 
Col. Gibson, and Capt. Williams, fell at the sortie 
of Fort Erie ; Rathbone at Queenston Heights ; 
Hobart at Fort George ; Ronem at Chicago ; Burch- 
stead and Wilcox at Fort Mimms ; and Smith at 
Christler's farm in Canada. 

'• Our whole army possesses now far more of the 
public respect and confidence, than it did not many 
years since. It is the great distinction of the acad- 
emy at West Point, that has contributed largely 
and effectually to this elevation of the character of 
the military establishment. And it has accom- 
plished a nobler service, by sending forth numbers 
annually, competent to superintend the construction 
of those chains of internal improvement, which are 
to be the eternal bonds of our national union. The 
rail-roads which connect the capital of Massachu- 
setts with the heart of the state, and with important 
harbours in Rhode Island and Connecticut; the im- 
proved facilities of communication afforded to the 
whole country by the Susquehannah and Balti- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 177 

more, Baltimore and Ohio rail-roads ; and the sim- 
ilar construction between Charleston and Ham- 
burg, S. C. ; the new roads which have augmented 
the wealth of the territories of Michigan and Ar- 
kansas, by opening new channels of transportation ; 
and the securities extended to the internal and for- 
eign commerce of the nation, by important harbour 
improvements upon the shores of the lakes, and 
upon the sea coast ; — these are some of the endur- 
ing memorials of the usefulness of the military 
academy, and of the returns it has made for the 
care, and time, and money, which have been be- 
stowed upon it. Other testimonials, and other re- 
wards, have been accorded to it, by the literary in- 
stitutions of our land, which have invited its gradu- 
ates to fill important professorships. The presi- 
dent and one of the professors in the college of 
Louisiana ; the president of Hamilton college, and 
the vice-president and the professor of mathematics 
in Ken yon college, in Ohio ; the professors of 
mathematics in the college of Geneva, and in the 
university of Nashville ; the professors of chemis- 
try in the universities of Pennsylvania and Vir- 
ginia, have all been members of the academy, and 
have resigned their commissions in the army, upon 
receiving these honourable appointments. And 
very recently, two second lieutenants have accepted 
vacant chairs in the university of New York. No 



178 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

words can demonstrate with one half the force and 
impressiveness, the beneficial influence of the mili- 
tary academy upon the characters of its members, 
and upon the national reputation. Within the short 
period of thirty years, this institution, whose own 
high reputation is now sustained by professors, all 
of whom, with but one exception, have been edu- 
cated within its walls, has not only furnished to 
the army gallant and accomplished officers, and to 
the country skilful engineers, but has sent forth 
principals and professors, to ornament and sustain 
colleges and literary seminaries. To this list ot 
those who have been thus distinguished, might be 
added the name of Ritner, who graduated with a 
highly respectable rank, in possession of his com- 
rades' affection and confidence; and became the 
professor of civil and topographical engineering in 
Washington college in Pennsylvania ; and died at 
the moment when the prospect of serving his na- 
tive state dawned upon him, and when his native 
state began to rejoice in the anticipation ofhis use- 
fulness and success." In this complimentary sum- 
mary, extracted from Colonel Johnson's report, 
may now be included the distinguished professor 
of mathematics and philosophy, in the university 
of Pennsylvania. But while we would thus award 
honour where honour is due ; and show that, esti- 
mated according to her contribution of national sci- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 179 

ence, the military academy is " not a whit behind 
the chiefest," — far be it from her sons to monopolize 
distinction, or to say that she has done any more 
than a national academy ought to have done, in re- 
turn for all her advantages. 

The argument, that it is supererogatory to edu- 
cate young men at the national expense, while so 
many who are self-educated volunteer their ser- 
vices, loses its force, when it is considered that the 
cadets are not merely scholars, but an active and 
efficient part of the army ; a grade of officers on 
duty, as much as if they were dispersed through 
all the posts and garrisons ; but learning that duty 
ten times as well as they could thus learn it; and 
at still less expense than if instructed while holding 
the commission of second lieutenants, correspond- 
ing to the old grade of ensigns. They learn it too, 
far more uniformly and thoroughly than if taught 
at private schools, military or civil ; as the experi- 
ence of more than one rival institution abundantly 
testifies. No fewer than thirty-four gentlemen, all 
with one exception similarly educated at the acad- 
emy, are employed in the discipline and instruction 
of two hundred and sixty cadets. Who but the 
most wealthy, could afford to pay for a similar 
amount of instruction for their sons, during four 
years of preparatory study ? 

The other argument raised against the academy, 



180 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

that only the sons of the influential and wealthy, 
gain admission to its advantages, is untrue in point 
of fact. Were it true, the blame would still rest, 
not on the academy, but on the members of Con- 
gress, on whose recommendations the appointments 
are generally made. Those who complain, there- 
fore, have only to elect more impartial representa- 
tives. Or if the fault be in the secretary of war, 
who makes the appointments, still it would not be 
remedied by abolishing the academy. The appoint- 
ment of officers still resting with the executive, it 
would then appoint as lieutenants those whom it 
now appoints as cadets; or rather, it would ap- 
point a more favoured class, already well educated. 
But as regards the administration at the academy 
itself; it is admitted by all who know the truth, 
even by its most violent opponents on the official 
boards of visiters, that nothing can be more just 
and impartial, than the promotion or rejection of 
the candidates for its honours. As about two ca- 
dets are rejected, for every one who graduates, it 
is not strange that many of the disappointed should 
find fault with the strictness of its requisitions. 
But in educating candidates for the highest offices 
of the army, it is surely just that the country should 
select those who are deemed best qualified; and 
not be required to educate and commission all who 
may be admitted to the academy on the recommen- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 181 

dation of partial friends. Even though many of 
the rejected may possess latent talents, undeveloped 
or dimmed by idleness; though they may after- 
ward rise and shine in another sphere; still the 
academic staff had no right to presume that they 
would thus acquit themselves, without some present 
evidences of future promise. 

The number of applicants is so great, that tjie 
youth must be very presumptuous, or must feel his 
claims to be transcendent, who can sanguinely cal- 
culate on admission. This may be said without 
imputation; because the wealthy and influential 
are by no means the only candidates. As the ra- 
tio of appointments is about three for each con- 
gressional district in four years, the candidate may 
generally learn, upon inquiry, whether there is a 
vacancy in his district. Or if not, it may be useful 
to forward his application and have it registered at 
Washington; as priority of application is one 
ground of preference. In selecting candidates for 
admission, the descendants of revolutionary officers, 
and of those who were in service during the last 
war, are considered as having peculiar claims to 
notice ; since their fathers perilled life itself for the 
preservation of their country. There is no other 
distinction between the candidates ; save their ac- 
credited talents and abilities to be of public service. 
The age of admission is now limited from sixteen 
16 



182 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

to twenty- one years; as that is supposed to be the 
most suitable period for completing, or rather com- 
mencing a military education. The acquirements 
necessary for admission, are, an acquaintance with 
reading, writing, and the elementary rules and 
principles of arithmetic. Efforts have been made, 
and it has been recommended by some boards of 
visiters, to raise the standard of admission, requiring 
a knowledge of grammar, geography, and the 
French and Latin languages, as a prerequisite. 
The decisive objection to this proposition, is, that 
it would close the doors of the academy against 
many who have not the pecuniary means of making 
these acquirements. But let it not therefore be 
supposed that those acquirements are the less val- 
uable or necessary. On the contrary, as geogra- 
phy, history, and the Latin language, are not now 
taught in the academic course, it is so much the 
more important that young gentlemen should be 
well versed in them before entering the academy ; 
otherwise, they are obliged to acquire them by pri- 
vate study, or else remain ignorant of these essen- 
tial branches of a liberal education. Many candi- 
dates fail of being admitted at the initiatory exam- 
ination, because, although they can give the rules 
of arithmetic, they cannot explain the principles on 
which these depend/ As opportunity is afforded 
for gratuitous instruction on this subject at the 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 18$ 

academy, from the 1st of June, until the examina- 
tion of candidates near the close of the month, they 
who are anxious for success, would do well to 
avail themselves of this assistance. 

The months of July and August in each year 
are devoted solely to military exercises ; for which 
purpose the cadets leave the barracks and encamp 
in tents on the plain, under the regular police and 
discipline of an army in time of war. For this 
purpose, the cadets are organized in a battalion of 
four companies, under the command of the chief 
instructer of tactics and his assistants. The cor- 
porals are chosen from the third class, or cadets 
who have been present one year ; the sergeants 
from the second class, who have been present two 
years ; and the commissioned officers, or captains, 
lieutenants, &c, are selected from the first class, or 
highest at the academy. All the other cadets fill 
the ranks as private soldiers, though necessarily 
acquainted with the duties of officers. In rotation 
they have to perform the duty of sentinels, at all 
times, day or night, storm or sunshine, in camp, 
and evenings and meal-times, in barracks. Cadets 
who have been present two encampments, are al- 
lowed, if their conduct have been correct, to be ab- 
sent the third, on furlough. The drills or military 
exercises, consist in the use of the musket, rifle, can- 
non, mortar, howitzer, sabre and rapier, or broad 



184 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

and small sword; fencing, firing at targets, &c, 
evolutions of troops, including those of the line ; 
and the preparation and preservation of all kinds 
of ammunition and materials for war. The per- 
sonal appearance of the corps of cadets cannot fail 
to attract admiration ; especially on parade or re- 
view. The uniform is a gray coatee, with gray 
pantaloons in winter, and white linen in summer. 
The dress cap is of black leather, bell crowned, 
with plate, scales, and chain. The splendid band 
of music, which, under Willis, made hill and valley 
ring with notes of " linked harmony long drawn 
out," though changed, still pleases ; and under its 
new leader, promises soon to deserve its former re- 
nown, as the best in our country. 

The cadets return from camp to barracks on the 
last of August, and the remaining ten months of 
the academic year are devoted to their arduous 
studies. The ceremony of striking the tents and 
marching out of camp is so imposing, as to be well 
worth an effort of the visiter to be present on that 
occasion. On the previous evening, the camp is 
brilliantly illuminated ; and enlivened with music, 
dancing, and bevies of beautiful strangers, it pre- 
sents quite a fairy scene. 

For the sake of more full instruction, each class 
is divided into several sections, each having a sep- 
arate instructer. Thus each cadet is called upon. 



LETTERS AfcOUT THE HUDSON. Iba 

at almost every recitation, to explain a considerable 
portion of the lesson ; for the morning recitations 
generally occupy two hours each. The written or 
delineated demonstrations, are explained on a black 
board in the presence of the whole section. 

The studies of the first year are algebra, geome- 
try, descriptive geometry, trigonometry, and the 
French language. All the mathematical studies 
are practically taught and applied to numerous 
problems not in the books ; on the resolution of 
which greatly depends the reputation and stand- 
ing of each rival candidate for pre-eminence. The 
studies of the second year, are the theory of shades, 
shadows, and perspective, practically illustrated ; 
analytic geometry, with its application to conic sec- 
tions ; the integral and differential calculus or sci- 
ence of fluxions ; surveying and mensuration ; the 
French language, and the elements of drawing, 
embracing the human figure, in crayon. This 
completes the course of mathematics, and also of 
French ; which the cadets learn to translate freely 
as a key to military science, but which few of them 
speak fluently. 

The third year is devoted to a course of natural 
philosophy, including mechanics, optics, electricity, 
magnetism, and astronomy; together with chem- 
istry, and sketching landscapes with the pencil, and 
16* 



186 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

topography with the pen, which complete the 
course of drawing. 

The fourth and last year is appropriated to the 
study of artillery and infantry tactics ; the science 
of war, and fortification, or military engineering ; 
a course of civil engineering, embracing the con- 
struction of roads and bridges, rail-roads and canals, 
with the improvement of rivers and harbours ; a 
course of mineralogy and military pyrotecting ; to- 
gether with the elements of rhetoric, moral philoso- 
phy, and national and constitutional law. 

To test the progress of the cadets in these studies, 
semi-annual examinations are held, commencing on 
the first Mondays of January and June ; at the lat- 
ter of which a board of visiters, appointed by the 
secretary of war, is present, to make a critical offi- 
cial report of the state of the academy. The ex- 
amination of all the classes usually occupies about 
a fortnight, and is very severe ; but still is not con- 
sidered the full test of individual proficiency. Each 
instructer makes a weekly class report, on which 
is recorded the daily performance of each cadet ; 
those who excel being credited 3, and those who 
fail entirely marked 0. These marks are accessi- 
ble to the cadets from week to week, and stimulate 
their exertions : finally, they are summed up at the 
end of the term, and laid before the academic staff, 
and visiters ; so that the standing of each cadet is 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 187 

influenced not only by his examination, but by all 
his previous recitations. A certain prescriptive 
proficiency being required of the cadets in each 
branch, those who fall below this limit are neces- 
sarily discharged from the service. Averaging the 
last ten years, where a class of one hundred enters 
the academy, it is reduced to about seventy at the 
end of six months, sixty at the end of one year, fifty 
at the end of two years, and forty at the end of 
three years ; not more than about thirty-five grad- 
uating. 

There is a general merit roll of every class, 
made out at the end of each academic year; the 
merit of each cadet being expressed by a number 
denoting his proficiency or acquirements. But the 
final standing of each cadet, on which depends his 
rank in the army, is determined by the sum of his 
merit, in all the different branches ; and this de- 
pends not only on his actual proficiency in any 
branch, but also on its relative importance. This 
latter is thus estimated at present by the academic 
staff, viz. : Conduct 300 ; engineering 300 ; math- 
ematics 300 ; natural philosophy 300 ; chemistry 
and mineralogy 200 ; rhetoric, ethics and law 200 ; 
infantry tactics 200; artillery 100; French 100; 
and drawing 100. Hence the individual who 
should excel in all the branches, would be credited 
with 2100 on the final merit roll; but no more 



188 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

than three or four such instances have ever occur- 
red at the academy. The cadet in each class hav- 
ing the greatest sum of merit is placed first on the 
roll, and so onward; and he who is deficient in 
only one single branch is discharged, or else turned 
back another year to receive a second probation. 

The graduates of the military academy are enti- 
tled by law to a preference over other applicants 
for commissions in the army. As the average 
number of vacancies is only about twenty-five an- 
nually, the army would soon be more than filled, 
did not a considerable number of the graduates 
voluntarily resign, in order to embrace other pro- 
fessions, particularly that of civil engineering. Al- 
though feeling under a moral obligation to offer 
their services to the country in case of any future 
emergency, they deem it right, as it is freely per- 
mitted, in time of peace, to embrace other profes- 
sions in which they may seek to be still more use- 
ful. Those who remain in the army, are attached 
as brevet second lieutenants to the different corps, 
until they may receive higher rank on the occur- 
rence of vacancies. 



LETTER XVII. 

Settlement of Newburgh — Location — Population— Showy 
appearance from the River — Place of business— Steam- 
boats — Extensive manufacture of Bricks in Newburgh 
and vicinity— Iron Foundry— Newburgh Brewery— Col. 
Crawford's extensive Storehouse — Business crowded into 
one street— Botanic Gardens and Nursery of the Messrs. 
Downing — Description of the same — J. W. KneveW collec- 
tion of exotic Plants, the most extensive in the country — 
View from Beacon Hill — Splendid Scenery — Reasons for 
supposing the Hudson was once a Lake — Washington's 
Head- Quarters— The United States Hotel — Walden, a 
manufacturing village on the Walkill — Its resources, etc. 

Newburgh, June 10th, 1S36. 

Friend P. — Newburgh was originally settled 
by a few emigrants from Palatine, in 1708. It is 
beautifully located on the west bank of the Hudson, 
sixty miles north of New York, and contains a 
population of 7683, according to the state census of 
1835. Situated as it is, on the declivity of a hill, 
it makes a fine appearance from the river, although, 
if we except a few elegant mansions on the hill, 
little taste is displayed in the architectural view. 

It is a place of considerable business. The pro- 
ducts of Orange county are principally shipped 
from this village to New York. Five steam- 
boats, the Washington, the Superior, the William 



190 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Young, and the Highlander, are constantly em- 
ployed in transporting produce to the city, and an- 
other boat, the Baltimore, runs between Newburgh 
and Albany with freight or passengers. 

Bricks are manufactured in Newburgh, and the 
immediate vicinity, on a pretty extensive scale. 
Three establishments make yearly, I am informed, 
an average of three millions each ; one four and a 
half millions; and six smaller establishments, a 
short distance north of the village, about fourteen 
millions. With what are made on the opposite 
shore, the aggregate number manufactured by all 
is upwards of thirty-six millions per annum. These 
bricks, at an average of $6 per thousand, amount 
to the enormous sum (dug from the clay hills as it 
were) of upwards of two million dollars. There is 
also a large Iron Foundry, owned by J. W. "Wells, 
at which various kinds of machinery and castings 
are made. The brewery of J. Beveridge & Co. is 
very extensive, and the ale is, I think, without ex- 
ception, the best manufactured on the river. At 
least, it is superior to any with which I am ac : 
quainted. More than twenty thousand barrels of 
this excellent beverage are turned out annually. 

Some of the storehouses are very extensive ; that 
owned by Col. D. Crawford, is two hundred and fifty 
feet long, and the amount of produce shipped by 
the house with which this gentleman is connected, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 191 

during the navigation, amounted to something like 
two hundred thousand dollars. Nearly all the 
business is crowded into one street, running paral- 
lel with the river. And a large number of the in- 
habitants are huddled into the chambers over, or in 
the rear of the stores. 

The Botanic Gardens and Nurseries of the 
Messrs. Downing, a little north of the village, in a 
charming situation sloping gently towards the 
shore, and looking out from among the bright flow- 
ers and the fresh foliage, over one of the sweetest 
of views, are by no means the least attractive por- 
tion of the suburbs of this place; and I suspect, from 
the celebrity which this establishment is attaining, 
as a commercial garden, throughout the Union, 
that many strangers are drawn hither by the in- 
creasing taste for horticulture, to view the improve- 
ments in cultivation, or to draw from the rich re- 
sources of fruit and ornamental trees collected here, 
for the improvement and embellishment of their 
own estates. Although the proprietors mentioned 
to me that their establishment was new, and com- 
paratively in its infancy, yet from the vigorous man- 
ner with which it is conducted in the various de- 
partments, it must become the source of great ad- 
vantages to the whole country. The proprietors 
appear to possess a profound knowledge, both theo- 
retical and practical, of their profession, and a con- 



192 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

stant correspondence is maintained with scientific 
individuals and establishments of the same kind in 
Europe, by which means all the new fruits, and 
every thing rare and valuable to the amateur, is 
obtained as soon as it comes into notice. The va- 
riety of fruits cultivated in the nurseries is quite as- 
tonishing : I can only recollect one hundred and 
fifty kinds of apples, and more than two hundred 
of pears — what a treasure for the farmer and horti- 
culturist! The proprietors pay the most minute 
attention to the genuineness of the sorts, and bear- 
ing trees are planted to test all the varieties. As a 
proof of the advantages of, and the perfection to 
which grafting is carried, I was shown several 
trees which bear annually twenty-five or thirty va- 
rieties of fruit upon the different branches. 

In the lower parts of the grounds we observed an 
extensive walk just formed, exhibiting a complete 
botanical circuit of plants arranged in a scientific 
manner — a rockwork for alpine plants, and a pond 
for aquarian, in which the water-lilies and a number 
of other aquatic plants were thriving admirably. In 
this way the establishment will, when completed, 
comprise every thing desirable in its way to the 
botanist, the amateur, and the agriculturist. I no- 
ticed large plantations of the celebrated Chinese 
mulberry, grape vines, and the rarer and more deli- 
cate shrubs and plants—and among the treasures 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 193 

of Flora, rich collections of roses, dahlias, and other 
ornamental plants. In the hot-house, among a va- 
riety of curious vegetation, I was struck with the 
size of a huge aloe, one of those wonders of nature 
which bloom but once in two of the ordinary life- 
times of the human race. This specimen has, I 
believe, achieved more than one half its centennial 
period. From the hasty glance which I took 
through the establishment, I was unable to note 
more particularly those minutiae of such an estab- 
lishment which, after all, must be seen to be appre- 
ciated — but I was delighted with the greenness of 
the hedges, of which I saw four or five kinds grow- 
ing here to test their comparative merits in this 
climate. Every foreigner is justly offended with 
our unsightly fences — why should we not appro- 
priate to ourselves the beautiful materials which 
nature seems to have armed with thorns, and deck- 
ed with foliage, for that special purpose. And then, 
what a discord between rail fences and green mead- 
ows, and what a harmony in live hedges and equally 
verdant fields ! 

I encountered, in my rambles in the suburbs, a 
Very rich private collection of exotic plants at the 
demesne of J. W. Knevels, Esq., who, as I under- 
stand, is a zealous amateur, and has recently de- 
prived Philadelphia of some of her boasted floral 
and botanical treasures to enrich this neighbour - 
17 



194 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

hood. There are many superb tropical plants in 
his range of hot-houses, more than one hundred 
feet in length, which I had never before seen, and 
many of which I had never observed specimens so 
fine. The large variety of camellias — the noble 
orange trees — the stately palms — the breadfruit 
tree — the coffee, camphor, guava, and other West 
Indian fruits, were thriving here apparently as if 
in their natural zones. If I had first seen the 
light of heaven in some southern clime, beneath 
the shade of a palm or a plantain, I might, like the 
Hottentot whose story is upon record, have wept 
at the sight of our compatriot trees ; but as it was, 
I contented myself with admiring that refinement 
of mind which led a country gentleman to in- 
dulge and cultivate a taste at once so innocent, so 
delightful, and so instructive, as the collection and 
preservation of those beautiful and delicate produc- 
tions, which the great Creator has scattered with a 
bountiful hand over the different climates and coun- 
tries of the earth. 

The stranger, who wishes to carry away a dis- 
tinct impression of this section of the Hudson, will 
not fail to visit Beacon Hill, opposite Newburgh, 
the last summit of the Highlands of any altitude, 
as the range dips off to the northeast. An hour's 
ride on horseback from Fishkill landing, partly 
through the fine arable lands of Dutchess, and 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 195 

partly through the luxuriant over-hanging 1 foliage 
of the mountain road, brings you to the summit. 
A few occasional glimpses through the tufts of 
trees, with now and then a broader opening at 
some curve of the wood, beautiful though they be, 
give you but a slight foretaste of the magnificent 
coup d'asil in reserve for you upon the summit. 
This summit — a rounded peak of the primitive 
granite, bare, or only tufted here and there with a 
few groups of small trees, with no habitations or 
traces of cultivation upon it, affords a view of a 
landscape, at once one of the grandest and most 
beautiful that can be found in the union. Rising 
as it does, rather abruptly from the plain on the 
east bank, the spectator, gazing from its height 
upon the scene before him to the west and north, is 
placed as it were upon the boundary — the frame 
or setting of a magnificent panorama — which is 
continued by the Highlands in the south, the hills 
of the Shawangunk range in the west, and the 
Catskills in the north, quite round the picture. 
In this fine setting — high, rugged, and frowning 
on the range where you stand — softer, but still 
strongly marked as it breaks against the horizon 
opposite you — faint, indefinable, and shadowy, 
where it melts in the clear blue sky to the north- 
ward — in this fine setting, the materials of the 
beautiful and the picturesque are arranged with all 



J96 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

the grandeur, the softness, and beauty of detail, 
that the most fastidious connoisseur of fine scenery- 
can desire. Before you lies the Hudson, swollen 
into a lovely expanse or bay of ten miles in length 
— afterward narrowing, and meandering away to 
the north, until it is lost to the eye in the distance 
i — sprinkled through its whole course with the 
white sails of the numberless vessels that float upon 
its surface. Sloping away from its banks, rise the 
fine cultivated lands of the rich old river counties 
— the clustered villages — the neat farm houses, 

" and hamlets low, 
With whose thick orchard-blooms the soft winds play," 

and its elegant villas gleaming through the tufts of 
foliage that surround them. The soft green of the 
meadows — the deeper teints of the forest masses, 
scattered here and there through the cultivated 
lands — the golden hue of the grain fields in mid- 
summer — and the sparkling lustre of the river and 
the two small lakes west of Newburgh, which 
shine like sheets of silver in the rays of the de- 
clining sun — all these, with a thousand variations 
in the grouping of the details, produced by the art 
of man in a tract of country which yields a luxu- 
riance of vegetation to correspond with its noble 
river and fine hills — form a picture, such as we 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. .197 

may suppose greeted the eyes of Moses when he 
looked down upon the promised land. 

The valley before us is also interesting to those 
who are fond of studying the wonderful mutations 
and revolutions that have taken place upon the 
face of our continent, as being the supposed bed of 
a lake of large dimensions, the southern boundary 
of which was once the Highlands, through which 
the mass of waters having burst, found their way 
to the ocean, leaving the bed of the lake dry, and 
forming the present channel of the river. Besides 
the proofs which the man of science finds in the 
formation of this valley — the various deposites — the 
organized remains — and the abruptly waved roll- 
ing surface in many places — it is remarkable how 
the idea of its having been the bed of an original 
lake, impresses itself upon even a general observer 
placed upon Beacon Hill. The very chain of 
mountains which meet the horizon, looking in 
every direction from this point, were, undoubtedly, 
the banks of this vast body of water — the abrupt, 
torn passage through the hills below bearing wit- 
ness to a sudden convulsion — the rounded boulders 
of stone scattered over the level plains, and those 
plains themselves having in their soils all the char- 
acteristics of a deposited surface — all powerfully 
serve to the conviction, that you are looking upon 
the dry bed of a lake of noble dimensions. 
17* 



198 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Beacon Hill was a station for the display of bon- 
fires in the revolution, which, from its elevated po- 
sition, denoted the movements of the enemy to the 
inhabitants for a great distance through the sur- 
rounding counties. 

During my visit to Newburgh, I visited Wash- 
ington's Head- Quarters — the old Hasbrouck house 
— occupied by him and his family in the revolu- 
tionary war. It is now occupied by a son of Wash- 
ington's host. Veneration, if I may be allowed 
the use of a phrenological phrase, does not appear to 
be a very prominent development, or bump, on the 
cranium of the present proprietor, as the improve- 
ments made in various parts of this "time hon- 
oured" and Washington hallowed mansion melan- 
cholily demonstrate. The sleeping apartment of 
Washington and his lady were pointed out to me, 
as was also the chair belonging to him, which has, 
I regret exceedingly to say, been newly bottomed 
and painted. 

The United States Hotel is a well contrived and 
spacious building of brick. It looks out upon the 
Hudson from thirty-six windows and doors. It is 
now under the management of Mr. Gilbert, and 
will compare with the best hotels on the river. 
Daily mail stages leave this hotel for Goshen, Bing- 
hampton, Owego, Ithaca, Geneva, Buffalo, &c. All 
the New York and Albany steamboats land and 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 199 

receive passengers at the dock directly in front of 
the hotel. 

Eleven miles west of Newburgh, there is a fine 
little manufacturing village called Walden. This 
village is said to contain the greatest water power 
of any*village in the state of New York, within 
eighty miles of the city. The district of country 
around it is remarkable for beauty, fertility, and 
salubrity of climate. The village is situated at 
the Falls of the River Walkill. The river passes 
through the village, where it has an average width 
of two hundred feet ; a cascade of thirty-two feet 
fall, and rapids of eighteen feet, in that distance, 
giving facilities for working the water three times 
from so many levels, with over-shot wheels of 
twenty, eighteen, and twelve feet diameter, and on 
both sides of the river. The Walkill has it source 
in the numerous ponds in the mountains on both 
sides of it, and also receives all the springs in a 
■course of fifty miles before it reaches the Falls at 
Walden. It is considered a powerful and perma- 
nent stream, and will probably continue so from 
.circumstances connected with it. The river has 
never been known to rise by freshets over three 
feet at Walden, which is accounted for from the 
fact of its passing through a narrow outlet after 
leaving the drowned lands, over which any sudden 
influx of water diffuses itself without occasion'" 



200 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

any disastrous flood below the outlet. The village 
was commenced in 1823, when the canal was com- 
pleted, and the first factory erected, since which it 
has acquired a population of twelve hundred. Its 
water power alone is capable of sustaining a popu- 
lation of ten thousand inhabitants. 

But the bell on the dock announces the steam- 
boat in sight, and I must away, without saying the 
half I intended. So farewell for the present. 



LETTER XVIII, 

Original purchase and first settlement of Hudson — The 
Whale Fishery — Reverses of Hudson — Hudson and Berk- 
shire Rail Road — Statistical Estimates— Girard College 
— Lebanon Springs — Capital, <f*c, of Whaling Companies 

— Capt. Paddock — The Shipping of Hudson — Rail Road 
ropes — Alexander Coffin — Captain Gordon — New Court 
House and Jail — Private Dwellings — Churches — Doctor 

White's Asylum for the Insane — Education — Distinguish- 
ed men of Hudson — Grave of Lieut. Wm. H. Allen — Col. 
Jenkins — Location of Hudson, <$*c. — Views — North Bay — 

View from Prospect Hill — Steamboats — Banking Capital 

— Village of Athens— Ferry, fyc.—Stuyvesant— Great Nut- 
ton Hook— Beautiful Scites. 

Hudson, May 2d, 1837. 

Dear P. — This city derives its name from Hen- 
ry Hudson, the first navigator of the "noble North." 
The site on which the city is built was purchased 
in 1783, one year after the war of the American 
Revolution, and the settlement commenced in 1784. 
It was purchased by twenty-seven individuals, chief- 
ly from the Island of Nantucket, Providence, R. I., 
and Martha's Vineyard, with a view to the establish- 
ment of the whale fishery, which was commenced 
immediately ; this branch of business, together with 
the West India trade, were carried on for several 
years extensively, and with success. The growth 



202 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

of Hudson, for a number of years after its first set- 
tlement, was almost without a parallel ; and contin- 
ued to increase and flourish until the commence- 
ment of the embargo, prior to the late war with 
Great Britain. 

Some ten or twelve years since, the city under- 
went one of the reverses to which great prosperity 
sometimes leads. From this depression it is, how- 
ever, rapidly rising; and will, in time, doubtless be- 
come one of the most prominent places for business 
on the banks of the Hudson. Its location, in sev- 
eral important particulars, is without a rival. 

The inhabitants count much on the completion 
of the Hudson and Berkshire Rail Road, and their 
hopes will, unquestionably, be realized. The Rail 
Road Company was incorporated in 1832, and its 
charter renewed in 1834; but no organization took 
place until May, 1835. Its capital stock is $350,000, 
and more than double that amount was subscribed 
on the opening of the books. The preliminary 
surveys commenced in June, 1835, and the work 
has steadily progressed since that period. The 
whole line, extending from the river at the city of 
Hudson to West Stockbridge, Mass., thirty-two 
miles, is under contract for grading, and nearly or 
quite completed. The rails will, in all probability, 
be laid this summer ; and by September of the pre- 
sent year, the work will be completed. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 203 

This road passes through a beautiful valley, em- 
bracing one of the richest farming districts in the 
state. At Stockbridge, it will connect with the great 
Western Rail Road from Boston ; and at Catskill 
with the Rail Road leading to Canajoharie, and 
thence to Buffalo. Through this avenue the East 
may be supplied with the produce of the fertile 
West, and the latter with the manufactures of the 
East. It will also afford a new route for travellers 
from the " Commercial" to the " Literary Empo- 
rium." They may then leave the city of New 
York at 5 o'clock, P. M„ reach Hudson at 4 A. 
M., and arrive at Boston at 2 P. M., of the same 
day. But independent of all travel, and eastern 
and western transportation, it is estimated that the 
county of Berkshire will support the road, and 
more than pay the interest of the capital. It is the 
opinion of George Rich, Esq., the engineer, that 
the road will be built within its capital, or for 
$11,000, per mile — say entire capital $350,000; 
the interest at 7 per cent, would amount to $24,500 ; 
superintendence and repairs to $20,000; total, 
$44,500. Now individuals acquainted with the 
marble business have offered to contract to deliver 
to the company at Stockbridge, from the quarries 
of the beautiful marble in that village, 100 tons per 
day, for nine months in the year ; and to insure the 
sale of the same amount when delivered at Hudson. 



204 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

But for safety, I will assume but half that amount, 
at $2, per ton, for transportation, where they now 
pay $5 ; 50 tons per day for 240 days, pays $24,000. 
The other tonnage to and from the Hudson river 
was ascertained, two years since, to exceed 25,000 
tons, which at $2, would amount to $50,000, giv- 
ing a total of $74,000. To secure the marble bu- 
siness to this company, an association of the Rail 
Road stockholders have purchased nearly all of the 
principal quarries in the vicinity of Stockbridge. 
The marble of which the Girard College, at Phil- 
adelphia, is built, was transported from the quarries 
over a hilly road to be shipped at Hudson.* 

The Lebanon Springs are only seven miles from 
the line of the road, and as soon as the main road 
is completed, a branch will be made to that place. 
That the Berkshire and Hudson Rail Road will 
materially advance the prosperity of this rising city, 
I do not entertain a doubt. 

The whaling business has been carried on pretty 
extensively in Hudson, since 1830. Eleven ships, 
amounting to something like four thousand tons, are 
now engaged in this useful enterprise. The Hud- 
son Whaling Company has a capital of $300,000 ; 
one third of which is invested in three fine ships. 

* The marble required for the Girard College cost abofct 
$180,000. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 205 

Capt. Macy, late of the Liverpool packet line, is 
sole proprietor of one of the ships ; and the others 
are held by joint stock companies. The president 
of the Hudson Whaling Company, is a genuine 
descendant of Nantucket, and a brother of the far- 
famed Paddock, master of the ship Oswego, wrecked 
some years ago on the coast of Barbary. 

There are several square-rigged vessels, from, 
this city, employed in the merchant service, and it 
is a singular fact, that at one time more shipping 
was owned at Hudson than in the city of New York. 

Rail Road Ropes are manufactured in this place, 
by Messrs. Folger and Colman. It is the only 
establishment of the kind in the country. More 
than 150 tons are turned out annually. These 
ropes are often one and a half miles in length ; 
more than 200 men would be able to carry. Ten 
miles of these ropes are used on the Portage Rail 
Road, in Pennsylvania, per annum. Of the twen- 
ty-seven original purchasers, or proprietors, of Hud- 
son, one only survives — Alexander Coffin ; I en- 
joyed his company for an hour, and found him af- 
fable and intelligent ; and although he had attained 
the advanced age of ninety-six, he appeared active 
and sprightly. He was born in Nantucket, and is 
a near relative of Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. When 
I saw him he was in the enjoyment of good health, 
and told me that he could walk, a mile without 
18 



206 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

resting. He has outlived a numerous offspring, 
with but one exception. Of ten children, one daugh- 
ter only survives, and she is in her seventy-fourth 
year. This venerable old man is universally es- 
teemed by his fellow-citizens, for his patriotism and 
integrity. His reputation remains unblemished by 
the foibles and vices, which, alas, too frequently 
mar the glory of gray hairs. 

His scattered locks are white 
With the hoar frost of time ; but in his soul 
There is no winter. He, the uncounted gold 
Of many years experience, richly spreads 
To a new generation ; and methinks, 
With high prophetic lore doth stand sublime, 
Like Moses, 'tween the living and the dead. 

I was introduced to a Capt. Gardner, now in his 
seventieth year. He had just returned from a suc- 
cessful whaling voyage, after an absence of three 
years. He sailed out of Hudson, fifty-two years 
ago. He spoke of another voyage with all the 
energy and ardor of youth. 

The new Court House, recently completed, is one 
of the finest specimens of Grecian architecture I 
have ever seen. It is about 300 feet wide. The 
building, including the wings, has 1 16 feet front; the 
main edifice, 40 by 60 feet, and 60 feet high, is sur- 
mounted by a dome 40 feet high, rising in majes- 
tic grandeur abdve the other buildings of the city, 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 207 

and is entered by a portico, 16 feet, with six Ionic 
columns ; the wings are severally 34 feet in front, 
by 44 in depth, and two stories high. The front 
is of Stockbridge marble, and the ends and rear of 
blue limestone. The centre contains the Court 
room, Sheriff's, and Surrogates offices ; the west 
wing, rooms for the Supervisors, County clerk, 
Grand and Petit jury, and District attorney ; and 
the east wing, the jail, with twenty cells on the plan 
of the State prisons, and the Keeper's dwelling. 
The Court room is splendidly furnished, and the 
whole structure affords good evidence of the taste 
of the architect, and the liberality of the county. 
It cost $30,000. The private dwellings of this city 
are generally neat, but few are very spacious or 
elegant. Cyrus Curtis, Esq., one of the leading 
men, has, however, a noble mansion of brick, the 
cupola of which overlooks the city. 

The city contains eight places of public worship : 
one Episcopal, two Presbyterian, one Baptist, one 
Methodist, one Universalist, and two Quaker 
churches. The new and spacious Presbyterian edi- 
fice is built of limestone, of the Gothic order, and 
will compare in architectural proportions with the 
finest specimens of our country. • The new Church 
of the Dutch Reformed is a neat and chaste speci- 
men of the Doric order. 

The mortality of the city is, I am told, less than 



208 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

that of any other in the state. The cholera of 1832 
did not visit the city of Hudson. 

In the course of my ramblings about the city, I 
visited Dr. White's Insane Asylum. Viewing it 
as the work of individual effort, it well deserves 
respectful notice. It has been in successful ope- 
ration since 1830. The building is somewhat 
imposing in its appearance, and its location is pe- 
culiarly eligible and airy. It is constructed of 
limestone, procured from an inexhaustible quarry 
about a mile from the city. It is 120 feet in length. 
The centre is three stories, and two wings two sto- 
ries in height, with a basement under the whole, 
for bathing and culinary purposes. It is well cal- 
culated for the purpose, being divided into rooms 
for the accommodation of about sixty patients. It 
is situated on elevated ground, commanding fine 
scenery, good air, and pure water. In the rear are 
extensive grounds, where the inmates can exercise, 
and be diverted by games of ball, quoits, &c. Upon 
examining the interior of the establishment, the visit- 
er finds every thing light and airy, well adapted for 
the comfort and restoration of the patients; the rooms 
are neatly kept, well furnished, ventilated, and heat- 
ed. The attendants, male and female, appear to be at- 
tentive and kind. A separate building is assigned 
for noisy and disorderly patients. In his medical la- 
bours, Dr. White is assisted by his son, Dr. G. H. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 209 

White. Their treatment is upon the most approved 
plan, and has been quite successful, being in recent 
cases about 90 per cent. At present there are 48 
patients ; 275 have been admitted since the opening 
of the institution. 

It is worthy of remark in this place, that Dr. 
White was induced to enter upon so difficult an en- 
terprise from the occurrence of two cases in his own 
family, which led him more attentively to study 
the philosophy of the human mind for nearly twen- 
ty years, and to gather for their benefit from the 
systems of Europe, and the institutions of our own 
country, the most approved medical and moral 
treatment. 

The treatment of a community of maniacs is 
most arduous; but when the principles of benevo- 
lence, guided by wisdom, are enlisted in the cause, 
the reward of an approving conscience will more 
than compensate the devoted friend of the poor lu- 
natic. Of Dr. White it may be said, 

Thou art their friend — 
Thy wasting midnight vigil is for them : 
The toil, the watching, and the stifled pang, 
That stamps thee as a martyr, is for them ; 
They cannot thank thee, save with that strange shriek, 
Which wounds the gentle ear. Yet thou dost walk 
In high ministry of love and power, 
As a magician, 'mid their spectre-foes, 
And burning visions. 
18* 



210 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Considerable attention is paid in Hudson to edu- 
cation. On the opposite corner of the Asylum stands 
a three story brick edifice, occupied as a Classical 
Boarding School. It is under the management of 
Mr. Andrew Huntington. The number of scholars 
is limited to twenty-five. It consists of boys from 
eight to sixteen years of age. Besides the common 
branches of an English education, the studies pur- 
sued are the Latin, Greek, and French languages, 
Algebra, Geometry, Rhetoric, and Chronology. 
The pupils are constantly under the care of the 
principal. The discipline of the school appears to 
be strict, but at the same time mild and parental. 
The expense of tuition, for each pupil, per annum, 
is $160, including tuition, board, lodging, washing, 
fuel, lights, and stationary. There are several 
other good schools, public and private. 

Few towns in this country have sent into the 
arena of public life more distinguished men than 
Hudson. It was here that Ambrose Spencer com- 
menced his professional career, about the year 1793, 
and continued in a very extensive and honourable 
practice, until his removal to Albany, in 1804, 
shortly before his appointment as Judge of the Su- 
preme Court. He was well educated in early life, 
and applied himself with assiduity, at the proper pe- 
riod, to the study of the law. In his profession he 
was rather solid than brilliant. His gigantic mind 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 211 

could grasp and comprehend the most abstruse sub- 
jects. Upon the bench he had no compeer ; and 
it was but common praise, when he was styled by 
cotemporary lawyers the Mansfield of America. 
Although an active and leading member of the 
dominant political party from 1802 to 1816, dur- 
ing the most exciting period of our history, Judge 
Spencer never suffered his judgment to be biassed, 
or the ermine of justice to be sullied. All parties 
and partisans, without one known exception, testi- 
fied to his unyielding firmness, and spotless integ- 
rity, as a judge. Well may the citizens of Hudson 
cherish, as they do, with pride, the recollection, 
that that city was the theatre of his first efforts ; 
the efforts of a genius, and of talents, which so long 
adorned the bench, and which have left an undy- 
ing record of the glory and greatness of their pos- 
sessor. 

It was here, too, that William W. Van Ness 
commenced the practice of law, though at a period 
somewhat later. He was admitted to the bar about 
1790, and appointed a Judge of the Supreme Court 
in 1807, when he removed to Albany. In Judge 
Van Ness were blended in an eminent degree ener- 
gy of mind and blandishment of manners. While 
at the bar, though not distinguished, perhaps, by so 
powerful a perception, or so strong a concentra* 
tiveness as Judge Spencer, yet his mind was al- 



212 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

ways clear, his power of demonstration exceeding- 
ly vivid, and his mode of developing truth so lucid, 
that his facts and doctrines seemed to be written 
with a pencil of light. It was in these particulars 
that he was considered by many the superior of 
Judge Spencer. This happy combination of or- 
derly intellectual powers, with a noble prepossess- 
ing person, and a musical voice, gave Judge Van 
Ness a commanding ascendancy over the minds of 
jurors, both in the capacity of advocate while at 
the bar, and of judge while on the bench. 

Thomas P. Grosvenor, also, commenced the 
brilliant career which ended before he had fairly at- 
tained the meridian of life, in the city of Hudson. 
He is said to have been a man of powerful mind, 
and independent feelings. Though a strong and 
steady light in his profession, he seemed more pe- 
culiarly destined by nature for a statesman. He 
was elected, and several times re-elected, to Con- 
gress in the district composed of the county of Co- 
lumbia, and for many years occupied a seat in the 
House of Representatives. During an eventful 
period he stood side by side with the first men in 
the nation, maintaining his doctrines with an ener- 
gy in debate, worthy of the proudest orators of 
Greece or Rome. Profoundly skilled in the sci- 
ence of government, with a logical and well bal- 
anced mind, open in his policy, and fearless in his 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 213 

course, he was no common antagonist to contend 
with. 

Statesman, yet friend to truth! of soul sincere, 

In action faithful, and in honour clear; 

Who broke no promise, served nG private end, 

"Who sought no title, and who lost no friend; 

Ennobled by himself, by all approved, 

Praised, wept, and honoured, by the friends he loved. 

Martin Van Buren, though a native of Kinder- 
hook, removed to the city of Hudson, in 1806, 
shortly after he was admitted to the bar, and in the 
latter place pursued a very successful and lucrative 
practice until about the year 1812, when he was 
appointed Attorney General of the State of New 
York. His subsequent course, and his present ele- 
vated position as President of the United States, 
the highest office in the gift of the American peo- 
ple, are subjects familiar to every reader. 

Elisha Williams, a native of Pomfret, in Connec- 
ticut, after acquiring a professional education, com- 
menced the practice of law, in 1795, in the village 
of Spencertown, in the county of Columbia. He 
remained there a year or two, and then removed to 
Hudson, where he resided until the spring of 1833, 
a few weeks before his death. Ambrose Spencer, 
William Van Ness, Thomas P. Grosvenor, Jacob 
R. Van Rensselaer, Martin Van Buren, and Elisha 
Williams, were all practitioners at the Columbia 



214 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

bar about the same period. Their forensic dispu- 
tations were intellectual and entertaining in the 
highest degree. They formed a constellation of 
genius and talent scarcely exceeded in any age or 
country; and of that constellation, Elisha Williams 
was the " bright and peculiar star." As an advo- 
cate he stood unrivalled among his cotemporaries. 
His professional services were sought in every di- 
rection. His knowledge of human nature was 
deep and profound ; his mind active and energetic; 
his fancy creative ; his eloquence splendid and re- 
sistless. Thomas Addis Emmett declared him to 
be the most eloquent man of the age. " I have 
listened," said he, "to the great men of Europe, 
but never to one who could enchain the attention, 
and captivate the judgment, like Elisha Wil- 
liams." 

In the grave yard, upon the eastern declivity of 
Prospect Hill, there is a chaste and beautiful mar- 
ble monument, which marks the spot where sleeps 
the dust of Lieutenant William H. Allen, who was 
killed by the pirates off the Island of Cuba. He 
was in command of the United States vessel of war 
Alligator, when killed. He was renowned for his 
bravery. 

" Let laurels, drenched in pure Parnassian dews, 
Reward his memory, dear to every muse ; 
'Tis to the virtues of such men, man owes 
His portion in the good that Heaven bestows ; 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 215 

And, when recording history displays, 
Feats of renown, though wrought in ancient days ; 
Tells of a few stout hearts that fought and died, 
Where duty placed them, at their country's side ; 
The man that is not moved by what he reads, 
That takes not fire at their heroic deeds, 
Unworthy of the blessings of the brave, 
Is base in kind, and born to be a slave." 

Col. Elisha Jenkins, and his brother Frederick 
Jenkins, are among the first settlers of the place, 
although not numbered among the twenty-seven 
original proprietors. The former has been Secre- 
tary of State, was Paymaster General during the 
last war, and for several years Mayor of Albany. 
Col. Jenkins, was one of the most active men in 
building the pier at Albany. They are both now 
residents of Hudson. 

The compact portion of Hudson lies upon argil- 
laceous marl, in horizontal strata,* containing a 
considerable portion of sulphate of magnesia. In 
front of the principal street is a promontory of sili- 
cious slate, projecting in the Hudson in a bold clifij 
whose summit, more than sixty feet from the sur- 
face of the water, has been formed into an agreea- 
ble promenade, by the corporation, and commands 
a beautiful view of the river, and the country on 
the opposite shore, bounded by the towering Kaats- 

* Gordon's Gazetteer of New York. 



216 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

bergs; being planted with trees and shrubs, and 
furnished with a house for refreshment, it has be- 
come a pleasant resort during the summer, and will 
repay the visiter for his pains at all seasons. Upon 
either side of this promontory is a bay of consider- 
able extent, with a low and approachable shore, 
with ample depth of water for all vessels that may 
ascend the river. The North Bay, in particular, 
forms an unrivalled harbor, and I have been sur- 
prised, that it has not ere this been devoted to bu- 
siness purposes. The sites for building on the 
banks above, are equal, if not superior, to any in the 
city.* The bay on the South is locked in by a lofty 
hill, anciently called Rorabuch, but which receiv- 
ed the name of Mount Merino, in consequence of 
the establishment of a sheep farm here, some years 
since, containing five hundred acres of land. The 
streets of the city are regularly laid out, intersect- 
ing each other at right angles, except near the riv- 
er, where they conform to the shape of the ground. 
From the promenade on the river, Warren, the 
main street, extends southeast more than a mile, 
with a gentle ascent to Prospect Hill, and there 
unites with others which subtend its base. This 
beautiful eminence, commanded by Becraft Moun- 

* It will be seen by the map that the Berkshire Rail 
Road will pass over this section of the City of Hudson. 
It is decidedly the best location. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUbSON. 21K 

tain, furnishes a fine view of the river, the Catskill 
Mountains, and an extent of country for grandeur 
and variety scarcely surpassed in any part of our 
land. Portions of Massachusetts, Vermont, New 
Hampshire, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania, are 
seen from this singularly located hill. It also af- 
fords an almost entire view of Columbia County. 
The hill is about 200 feet high, rising with a uni- 
form smooth surface, and falls off in the southeast 
to a low meadow, which divides it from the north 
end of the mountain. It is composed of a solid 
mass of hard clay (or pan) not stratified, contain- 
ing round pebbles of quartz, gneiss, granite, &c. f 
with pebbles of slate, chlorite, jasper, basamite, &c, 
The mass of the mountain is graywacke, support- 
ing a blue compact limestone. The upper strata 
of both rocks contain a great variety of petrifac- 
tions. The limestone affords a fair marble, which 
is used for flagging the streets, and for architectu- 
ral purposes. 

The day and night boats of the " New York, 
Albany, and Troy Line," and the " People's Line," 
going up and coming down, land and receive pas- 
sengers at the dock. Two steamboats ply between 
Hudson and New York for passage and towing; 
and a steamboat departs daily for Albany, touching 
at the intervening places. There are three hotels, 
and several taverns. I found very excellent ac- 
19 



218 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

commodatfons in my visits to this place at Boutell's. 
Mr. B. has recently removed to a new and spacious 
house, where he will be able to accommodate travel- 
lers in his usual good style. Nothing adds more to 
the reputation and advantage of a place, than com- 
modious well-managed houses of entertainment. 

Columbia County ranks among the five wealth- 
iest in the state, and yet it has but one bank loca- 
ted at Hudson, with a capital of but $150,000; a 
sum altogether inadequate to furnish accommoda- 
tions to the business community of a county whose 
manufacturing, and other business operations, will 
compare with almost any section of the state.* 

* The population of Columbia is 40,000, and that of 
Hudson is 6000. At Hudson, and within six miles of it, 
are the following concerns, all of which require extensive 
banking accommodations to carry on their operations : — 

Incorporated Whaling Company, capital, £300,000; Pri- 
vate Companies, owning 9 ships, cost and outfit, $300,000 ; 
one brig and a schooner engaged in foreign commerce, 
employing annually $30,000 ; Freighting establishments, 
paying out in their operations annually, $633,000 ; one 
Steam Mill, with a capital invested and employed, of 
$20,000; one Brewery, employing annually $20,000; cap- 
ital employed in the coal trade, $25,000 ; one Air Furnace, 
capital invested and employed, $35,000; an extensive 
Rope Factory for Rail Roads, the only one in the State, 
employing annually, $30,000 ; capital invested and em- 
ployed in trade and merchandise, independent of the 
above statements, $875,000 ; Hudson Print Work, capi- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 219 

Directly opposite the city of Hudson is the vil- 
lage of Athens, with a population of 2000 inhabi- 

tal, $385,000; amount paid for labor, fuel, &c. annually, 
$100,000; amount paid for printing, cloths, and dye-stuffs, 
annually, $105,000 — annually printed 4,200 : 000 yards ; 
Columbia ville Cotton Factories, capital, $105,000; amount 
paid out for raw material, labor, &c, annually ; four 
Woollen Factories, capital, $£0,000 ; amount paid out for 
wool, labor, fuel, &c, annually, $110,000; eight Flouring 
Mills, embracing a capital of $50,000; amount used annu- 
ally in their operations, $80,000 — Total amount of invest- 
ed capital, $1,540,000— Total amount of necessary floating 
capital, $2/200,000. 

There are also three other Landings, with freighting es- 
tablishments connected, which employ large capitals, and 
depend upon Hudson for their banking accommodations. 

There are in Columbia county (independent of the fore- 
going statements) numerous other business places and 
operations which require banking facilities to a large 
amount. East and south of the city of Hudson, (and be- 
yond the limits of 6 miles,) there are 80 Stores, 26 Flouring 
Mills, 2 Cotton Factories, 4 Woollen Factories, 1 Patent 
Block Factory, and the extensive Iron Works at Ancram. 

North of Hudson, and beyond the same limits, are 40 
Stores, 24 Flouring Mills, 2 Paper Mills, 3 Woollen Fac- 
tories, 4 Cotton Factories, and the Freighting establish- 
ment at Stuyvesant. 

In the county of Berkshire, adjoining Columbia on the 
east, there are large investments of capital in the manu- 
facture of Iron and Woollen goods, which find their way 
to market through the city of Hudson; and the proprie- 
tors of those establishments depend imon obtaining their 
monied accommodation at Hudson. 



220 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

tants, A steam ferry crosses every fifteen minutes. 
The principal business carried on in Athens is the 
manufacture of brick and lime. Twenty-five ships 
are employed in carrying these articles to market. 
There are six churches in this village, an Episco- 
pal, a Dutch Reformed, a Baptist, a Methodist, a 
Lutheran, and a Quaker. 

Stuyvesant is a beautiful village, situated on 
the bank of the Hudson, in the county of Colum- 
bia, about ten miles north of the city of Hudson. 
This was formerly a part of the town of Kinder- 
hook, celebrated for being the birth-place of the 
President of the United States. It is a place of con- 
siderable business, having several important and 
extensive freighting establishments, from which 
large quantities of grain and other productions of 
the rich and fertile lands in the immediate vicinity, 
the northern range of towns of this county, and 
southern tier of the county of Rensselaer, are ship- 
ped for New York. From this village east and 
south by a gradual and unbroken ascent you arrive 
at an eminence on which are several points partic- 
ularly desirable for country seats, a few of which 
I will take, occasion to notice, as having been se- 
lected by eminent individuals, who are making ac- 
tive preparations to erect mansions at their earliest 
convenience: to wit, President Van Buren, At- 
torney General Butler, Judge Vanderpool, and 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



221 



others. South of the President's, and on the same 
range of elevation, is the farm formerly owned by 
Jonas White, Esquire, containing about 600 acres 
of land, which for fertility of soil is not surpassed 
by any in this section of the country, and probably 
not in the state. Upon this farm, and about half a 
mile from the scite selected by the President, and 
upon the same range of elevation, is one of the most 
delightful locations for a country seat on the Hud- 
son ; having not only the same splendid view (with 
the President's and Attorney General's mansions) 
of the river to the north, the Catskill mountains to 
the west, but to the south having decidedly the ad- 
vantage, commanding a full view of the city of 
Hudson, Merino Point, and the river for several 
miles. In this farm is included the promontory 
called Nutton Hook, immediately opposite to Cox- 
sackie, with which it is connected by a well regu- 
lated ferry. This point is important from its pe- 
culiar position, being at the head of ship navigation, 
and at the head of the contemplated Coxsackie and 
Schenectady Rail Road, for which an application 
for a charter is now before the Legislature, which 
may be connected with the Hudson and Berkshire 
Rail Road by a link of but six miles in extent, 
thereby opening a communication by the way of 
this point both from the south and east to the west. 
I have been induced to speak thus particularly of 
19* 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



the " White Farm," from the fact of its combining 
all that can be desired by the gentleman of leisure, 
the farmer, or man of business. I do not wish to 
be understood, that the adjoining lands will not 
compare with this farm in quality of soil — but that 
its peculiar situation, the bend in the river giving 
it a front on the river on two sides, renders it beau- 
tiful beyond the powers of description. The old 
town of Kinderhook, for richness of soil, fertility, 
and adaptation to every branch of agriculture, is 
not surpassed by any land in the state. This fact 
the highly cultivated fields, splendid farm-houses, 
and substantial barns, abundantly prove. 

Yours, truly. 



LETTER XIX. 

Literary Institutions of Poughkeepsie — Distinguished Men 
— Stranger's Grave— Public Journals — Manufactures- 
Mines of Dutchess County. <frc. <$*c. 

Poughkeepsie,* May, 1837. 

Dear P. — I am aware that my rambling series 
of " Letters about the Hudson" commenced with 
this beautiful village. But as its increasing popu- 
lation, its various manufacturing establishments, 
and its temples of literature and learning, strike the 
mind rather as the power of fairy enchantment, 
than as the production of the energy and enterprise 
of this "work day world," it will be my endeavour 
to complete what I so imperfectly begun. 

The enterprise of Poughkeepsie varies from that 
of many other places. It is guided by intelligence 
and liberality. The directing spirits seem to pos- 
sess a higher motive than that embraced in Iago's 
advice, "put money in thy purse." They exhibit 
a patriotic pride in the rising wealth and prosperi- 
ty of the w r hole village, and a deep interest in the 
cause of education. As an evidence of this, one 
only need glance at the regularly paved, clean, and 

* Poughkeepsie, from the Indian word, Apokeepsing, 
safe harbour, organized 7th March, 1788. 



224 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

level streets ; its tastefully designed, neat, and ele- 
gant private residences; its handsome, sprightly, 
business-like stores: its noble seminaries, rich, am- 
ple, and commodious in their architecture; among 
which, like a throned queen, pre-eminently beauti- 
ful, stands the Collegiate School, with its chaste 
and elegant Grecian proportions. But it is not, 
friend P., my object to turn eulogist, but rather to 
state facts. The institutions of learning are emi- 
nently entitled to notice. The building of the Colle- 
giate School, situate on that noble eminence, known 
as College Hill, has been finished and in operation 
sinee November, 1836. The building is of brick, 
137 by 76 feet, a perfect model of the Athenian 
Parthenon. It will accommodate one hundred pu- 
pils, together with the family of the principal, and 
his assistants. Besides the principal, there is a 
Professor of Mathematics, of the Ancient Langua- 
ges, of the French, Spanish, and other modern Lan- 
guages, and one of History. 

The School is conducted on purely philosophical 
principles; reference being had to the nature of 
the juvenile mind, and constant efforts employed to 
develop its powers in their natural order, and to 
preserve them in their relative strength. The do- 
mestic arrangements and modes of instruction are 
adapted to youth of every age, and they are in- 
structed in such branches as may either qualify 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 225 

them for commercial life, or prepare them for a 
collegiate course, and the attainment of a liberal 
education, according to the wishes of their parents 
or guardians. Those who are intended for com- 
mercial life are taught Orthography, Reading, 
Writing, English Grammar, Geography, Rhetoric, 
Logic, Mathematics, History, Natural Philosophy, 
Political Economy, Civil Polity, the French and 
Spanish languages ; and those intended for a col- 
legiate course, apply themselves to the Latin and 
Greek Languages, in addition. 

The government of the School is supervisory 
and parental ; whilst the strictest order is enjoined, 
such discipline only is employed as most effectual- 
ly tends to call into action the moral sense of the 
scholar. Select portions of the Scripture are read 
daily, their fundamental truths inculcated, and such 
familiar lectures are occasionally delivered, as best 
serve to illustrate their moral and religious design 
and tendency, without having a direct bearing upon 
the peculiarities of any Christian denomination. 
Sabbath mornings and evenings are devoted to the 
study of the Bible ; and scholars attend church at 
such places as their parents, or guardians, direct. 
The rewards and punishments are of an intellectual 
and moral nature, addressed to the understanding 
and the heart. Rewards for good deportment, and 
diligence in study, are, the confidence and good will 



226 LairfiRS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

of instructors ; approbation and love of friends and 
relations; self-government; rapid improvement in 
learning; advancement to a higher class, and an 
approving conscience. Punishment for negligence, 
and irregularity of conduct is, chiefly, disapproba- 
tion of instructors; private and public censure; stu- 
dying during the hours of diversion ; removal to a 
lower class ; confinement ; and finally, if incorrigi- 
ble, dismission from the school. Strict attention is 
paid to the health of the pupils, and they are at- 
tended by a skilful and experienced physician, when 
necessary. Buying or selling, or bartering, and 
the use of tobacco, are strictly prohibited. There 
are two terms in the year, 23 weeks each. The 
first commences on the first Wednesday in Novem- 
ber ; the second term the first Tuesday in May. 
The principal and his family constantly and fami- 
liarly associate with the youth committed to their 
care. The annual expense per scholar, is $230. 
The sum includes all charges for instruction, board, 
books, stationary, bed and bedding, washing, mend- 
ing, room, fuel, lights, &c. 

The new building of the Dutchess County Acad- 
emy, for boys, has been completed. It is three sto- 
ries high, and occupies a very commanding posi- 
tion. The frame of the old edifice occupied as the 
Academy, was brought to this village from Fish- 
kill, shortly after the Revolutionary war. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 227 

Under the present organization of this Academy, 
each pupil, whatever may be the department of sci- 
ence pursued by him, has the benefit of the com- 
bined talents of all the teachers. The teachers not 
only hear the ordinary recitations, but give lectures 
to the classes in all the departments of science taught 
by them. To enable them to do this to the great- 
est advantage to the pupils, the Trustees furnish 
a set of Globes, and Mechanical, Philosophical, and 
Chemical apparatus, of which each pupil pursu- 
ing the studies to which they appertain, has the 
benefit. 

The building of the Poughkeepsie Female Acad- 
emy, was erected in 1836. It is of brick, and is 
situated in the heart of the village. It opened on 
the 18th of May. The average number of pupils 
during the first year was from 70 to 80. It justly 
ranks among the first Female Institutions in the 
country. 

The Female Seminary of Miss Booth stands 
high in the estimation of the public, and I think 
deservedly so. Miss B. is, from her moral and in- 
tellectual qualities, eminently well calculated to 
educate young ladies. 

Poughkeepsie may well be proud of her Litera- 
ry Institutions, for in this respect she is without a 
rival. In the course of two years the place has 



228 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

paid for three temples of science, well nigh one 
hundred thousand dollars* 

Among the most distinguished men in this beau- 
tiful village, I shall notice a few, whose public ser- 
vices have made them pre-eminent. 

Judge Janles Emott, president of the Dutchess 
County Bank, and a large stockholder in that in- 
stitution, with whose interests and prosperity he 
has been long identified, demands a more elaborate 
notice than a mere passing tribute to his worth. I 
must content myself, however, with a brief notice 
of this excellent man, whose worth can only be 
fully appreciated by those who have the privi- 
lege of his intimacy. In every public trust which 
this gentleman has assumed, his conduct has been 
marked with uncompromising integrity, sterling 
ability, and disinterested zeal. His assiduity in the 
office of commissioner under Gov. Jay, his ability 
and gentlemanly deportment as speaker of the house 
of Assembly in this state, his untiring devotion to 
his country's service, and the more immediate wel- 
fare of his constituents, as member of congress, du- 
ring the last war, and his exemplary deportment as 
a circuit judge, have gained for him universal ad- 

* The Collegiate Institute cost about $70,000 ; the 
Female Academy, $14,000; and the Dutchess County, 
$11,000. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 229 

miration and respect. In his judicial character, 
he was particularly remarkable for the exhibition 
of those virtues which characterize him as a phi- 
lanthropist and as a man. His urbanity at the bar, 
his patience, mildness, and dignity, in the most ar- 
duous of all employments, endeared him to the pro- 
fession of which he was at once an ornament and 
a guide ; while the depth of his learning, and the 
soundness of his judgment, were best acknowledg- 
ed in his opinions, which were seldom reversed. 
The ermine of his justice remains unsullied. He 
is a gentleman of the old school, evincing in his in- 
tercourse with society, a high sense of honour, and 
great moral purity and simplicity of character. 
The estimation in which he is held by the Episco- 
pal church, of which he is a "bright and shining 
light," and the influence he exerts in its general 
councils, are well known. He Avas the personal 
and confidential friend of De Witt Clinton. Judge 
Emott's residence Is one of the most commanding 
and beautiful on the Hudson, where he entertains 
his friends with that cordial urbanity which marks 
the finished gentleman. 

'* His life is gentle; and the elements 
So mingled in him, that Nature might stand up, 
And say to all the world, this is a man." 

In passing the new and splendid mansion of the 
20 



230 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

Hon. Nathaniel P. Talmadge, a senator in Con- 
gress* I must be allowed to say a few words of its 
occupant. Mr, T., who is yet in the prime of life, 
has always devoted himself to the public good. 
His patriotic exertions in the senate of the United 
States, if not always crowned with success, shine 
conspicuous amidst the public calamities which 
they would have averted. After graduating with 
distinguished honour at Union College, he applied 
himself to that profession which is the highway to 
public favour and emolument. But, the honours 
of the forum were soon attained; and the splendors 
of the great American senate had higher attractions 
for a man, whose brilliant career may be consider- 
ed as just begun. Transferred from the assembly 
and senate of his own state, where his eminent 
abilities were constantly exerted for the benefit of 
his fellow-citizens, to the senate of the United 
States, his votes and speeches on every subject fully 
attest his worth. He is a genuine old-fashioned 
republican ; one who is never guided by party 
trammels, but whose whole soul is given to his 
whole country. His speeches are marked by 
great vigour of thought, chasteness, and beauty; 
and to a most fascinating eloquence, he adds the 
more valuable quality of a sound and discrimina- 
ting judgment. Honesty, sincerity, amiability, 
moral excellence, and intelligence, are stamped in- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 231 

delibly on his countenance and character. To the 
genius, enterprise, and energy of this gentleman, 
the village is largely indebted, for its present as 
well as prospective prosperity. I have heard with 
regret, that Mr. T. contemplates withdrawing from 
the national councils. I hope, however, he may 
be induced to remain, where public spirit and ex- 
alted patriotism are so much needed. 

1 He was not born to shame ; 

Upon his brow shame is ashamed to sit, 

For 'tis a throne where honour may be crown'd.' 

Would you, friend P., visit one of the most enchant- 
ed spots which the midsummer-night dream of po- 
etry ever conjured up in the revelry of delicious 
imaginings, then visit this gentleman's residence, 
and if Oberon does not enchain you quite, you may 
go away, and live in the memory of it forever. 

Poughkeepsie is also the residence of the Hon. 
Smith Thompson, one of the associate judges of 
the Supreme Court of the United States, and seve- 
ral years since the whig candidate for the guberna- 
torial chair of this state. His legal decisions are 
well known to the people of the United States, and 
his moral and intellectual character are of the high- 
est grade. He is, to sum up all in few words, "a 
ripe and good scholar," and an " honest man." 

In contemplating the beautiful edifices which 



232 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

strike the beholder from so many points in this 
delightful place, we are at once reminded of the ac- 
complished gentleman to whom the inhabitants of 
Poughkeepsie, as well as the crowds of strangers 
who pass them, are indebted for that gratification 
of taste, which is almost peculiar to the spot. Need 
I mention the name of John Delafield, Esq. the 
efficient financier, and cashier of the Phcenix Bank 
in the city of New- York. Mr. D. seems to have 
searched the relics of antiquity, and ransacked the 
accumulated treasures of modern refinement, to 
embody in so many various modifications of the 
beau ideal, the exemplars of refined taste. The 
city of New York is largely indebted to Mr. Del- 
afield for his spirited exertions in behalf of science, 
literature, and the arts : it was under his guidance 
that the Historical Society of New York was reno- 
vated ; and the New York Athenaeum also was be- 
nefitted at his hands. The University of the City 
of New York, which is now an honour to the city 
and to the state, owes its existence in part to Mr. 
Delafield, as one of five gentlemen who projected 
that noble institution ; Mr. D. was secretary to the 
council for three years. It was the taste of this 
gentleman which caused the erection of the first 
purely Grecian edifice in New York, being the 
bank of which he has been the active executive of- 
ficer for seventeen years. Among other embellish- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



merits introduced by Mr. Delafield, is the enclosure 
of Hudson Square, excelled by none in this coun- 
try, and, as is admitted by Europeans, is second to 
none of the London squares. The financial saga- 
city and liberality of Mr. D. are too well known 
to be here noticed ; but we cannot resist the incli- 
nation, to record in these pages the name of one, 
who is alike the representative and the patron of 
genius. 

We frequently see among business-men great 
yublic spirit, and talents of a high order. To this 
class belongs Paraclete Potter, for many years edi- 
tor and publisher of the Poughkeepsie Journal, 
and a highly respectable bookseller. The com- 
prehensiveness of this self-taught and highly gifted 
individual's mind, is only equalled by the kindness 
of his nature, and the urbanity of his manners ; but 
the rarest excellence of all is the perfect disinterest- 
edness which marks every feature of his character. 
Is any measure proposed by which the public weal 
is to be advanced, his energetic helping hand comes 
to the work without hesitation or delay. He does 
not stop to inquire, " how r much shall I gain by 
this?" His mind seems cast in a purer mould; 
and while less elevated natures are battling for 
wealth, and the world's notice, he appears to keep 
aloof from the venial tard, as if "pro bono publico 11 
20* 



234 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

was both his watchword and his motto. He is a 
prominent member of the "improvement party." 

" Last, but not least/' I must allude to General 
Walter Cunningham. Nature designed this gen- 
tleman for what he so emphatically is — a business 
man. As cashier of the Dutchess County Bank, 
his sterling ability, prudent forecast, as well as en- 
ergetic decision, have given him an influence which 
few men possess. As a financier, he has few supe- 
riors. His sagacity in these operations has been 
crowned with signal success, and it has enabled 
him at the same time to be a liberal friend and a 
public benefactor. He possesses an elasticity and 
buoyancy of spirits, which no time or circumstan- 
ces can depress. His person is commanding, his 
carriage dignified and determined, and he is withal 
a most amiable and upright man. 

About half a mile below the village, on the 
grounds* of Henry Livingston, Esq., is a secluded 

* These grounds, and the spacious old mansion, have 
been in the possession of the Livingston family about one 
hundred and thirty years. The building is of stone, one 
hundred feet in length, but has been covered with boards. 
It contains something like thirty rooms. The name of 
the grandfather of the present occupant is to be found on 
the declaration of American independence. A ball was 
fired through this house by a British vessel, during the re- 
volutionary war, and is still in the possession of Mr. L. 

Col. Henry Livingston, the present occupant, is a gen- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 235 

and romantic cove on the Hudson, called " The 
Stranger's Grave," which received its name from 
the following circumstance. Long before the in- 
troduction of steam-boats on the river, and when 
the entire transportation was confined to sloops, a 
foreign vessel, on her way to Albany, cast anchor 
opposite this cove. Shortly after a boat came 
ashore, bearing a dead body, for which a grave was 
immediately prepared in a nook of the cove, be- 
yond the reach of tide mark. The body was si- 
lently and sadly interred, and the seamen embarked 
and pursued their course, leaving the wondering 
spectators of this scene to their own surmises. A 
short time elapsed, and a marble tablet was placed 
at the head of the grave. The deceased was a sea- 
man, a native of Denmark, and had died of fever. 
The slab bears many masonic emblems, to which 
order the deceased belonged. The locality of this 
sequestered place is truly beautiful ; there is a lone- 
liness about it, 

Most soothingly sweet— for young lovers to meet, 
Or poets to wake the dear theme. 

tleman of the old school. He is much esteemed by the 
inhabitants, and has been honoured by his fellow-citizens 
with several important offices, the duties of which he has 
ever discharged in a manner to secure the esteem of his 
friends, and command the respect of all. 



236 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

One of the best evidences of the prosperity of a 
village, is to be found in the appearance of its pub- 
lic journals. If the sheet is badly printed, and 
contains few advertisements, the distant reader at 
once comes to the conclusion, that it is a place of 
little or no business. On the contrary, if the paper 
be neatly executed, and well filled with advertise- 
ments, he infers at once that it is a place of consi- 
derable mercantile and business importance, and 
that the coram unity are liberal and intelligent. The 
papers of Poughkeepsie forcibly illustrate these 
remarks. It is but justice to say, that for their ty- 
pographical beauty, and general good taste, they 
are unsurpassed by any similar publications in the 
country. The three papers, the Poughkeepsie 
Journal, by Jackson & Schram, the Poughkeepsie 
Eagle, by Piatt & Ranney, and the Telegraph, by 
Kelly & Lossing, have a united circulation of more 
than four thousand copies weekly. The Journal 
was established in the revolution, and was conducted 
for many years by Paraclete Potter, Esq., with dis- 
tinguished ability ; the Telegraph was commenced 
in 1824, and the Eagle in 1828 by Mr. Piatt. The 
two former support the Van Buren administration, 
and the latter is the county organ of the whig or 
anti-administration party. 

Considerable attention is paid to reading in this 
place. The circulating library of Messrs. Potter 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 237 

& Wilson* contains about four thousand choice 
volumes, embracing the whole range of litera- 
ture. Their store is also well supplied with both 
foreign and American books, in superior style of 
binding. There is likewise another very respect- 
able bookstore, and a library for the Mechanics' 
Association. 

Since my last visit to this place, several new 
enterprises have been introduced into the village, 
and others have been enlarged and perfected. The 
Poughkeepsie Locomotive Factory, which is about 
commencing operation, will exceed, when in the full 
tide of successful experiment, in extent and facili- 
ties of manufacture, any thing of the kind in this 
country. It is got up under the direction of Mr. 
Bouten.an ingenious civil engineer, late of Boston. 
It is presumed that this establishment will turn out 
from fifty to seventy-five locomotives per annum. 
The probable, value of engines manufactured, ma- 
king the number of fifty, and putting the price at 

* I cannot refrain from acknowledging in this place my 
indebtedness to Mr. Wilson, for his gentlemanly deport- 
ment, cordial hospitality, and the many valuable facts which 
he so readily and cheerfully furnished. He possesses taste 
and talent of a high order, as the contributions which have 
graced the pages of the Edinburgh and other literary 
journals of Europe fully testify. His modesty is equal to 
his merit. He is a genuine Scotchman. 



238 LETTERS AEOUT THE HUDSON. 

$6000 each, the lowest minimum, will amount to 
$300,000, per annum. The principal building is 
of brick, two stories, with an attic 200 by 50 feet. 
There are several auxiliary buildings in connexion 
with the main; a blacksmith shop, 100 by 30 feet; 
a building for the construction of steam boilers, 50 
by 30 feet, all built of bricks and covered over with 
slate. The building cost $30,000. More than 
two hundred and fifty hands are employed in this 
establishment. 

Two Carpet manufactories have been established 
since December, 1835. They will manufacture 
annually more than 100,000 yards of fine and su- 
perfine ingrain carpeting, worth at present prices 
from $1, to $1.20 per yard. These establishments 
are the result of individual enterprise.* 

A new Furnace commenced casting since the 
opening of navigation, this spring. It will manu- 
facture castings to the amount of $30,000 per an- 
num. 

The manufacture of Paper Hangings has been 
recently commenced by Thomas Christie & Co., 
late of Boston. The paper is of a superior quality, 
and for beauty and durability will compare with 
the French. These gentlemen are erecting a build- 

* Henry Winneld & Co. are proprietors of one of these 
establishments. Mr. Winneld is well known as one of the 
first civil engineers in the country. 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 



ing which will enable them to manufacture a larger 
quantity than any similar establishment in the 
Union. 

While on a visit to this village, I witnessed the 
operation of Beale's Patent Safety Harness. Robert 
Beale is a citizen of Washington, D. C, but con- 
templates removing to Poughkeepsie, as the most 
desirable place for introducing several of his use- 
ful inventions. Like Gen. Harvey, before alluded 
to, he possesses a curious and inventive mind. He 
was educated for the bar, but has turned his atten- 
tion to mechanical improvements. The harness 
alluded to, dispenses with the use of traces, breech^ 
ing, swingletree, and swingletree-brace. Attached 
to the harness there is a safety string, which, by 
pulling, detaches the horse in an instant from the 
carriage. So far as time is important in taking the 
horse out, nothing can be more complete; two or 
three seconds is all that is necessary to entirely dis- 
engage the horse from the carriage. The horse 
walks down hill with perfect safety, and seems to 
travel over the ground with all the ease and grace 
of the unharnessed steed. 

The Brewery of Messrs. Vassar & Co. is now 
the largest establishment of the kind in the United 
States. The recent enlargement is of brick, 200 
by 50 feet, three and four stories high, which, to- 
gether with its fixtures, cost the proprietors rising 



240 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

$40,000. It is calculated to turn out 50,000 bar- 
rels of ale per annum. The ale manufactured at 
this establishment is not surpassed by any in the 
country. It is used even in the city of Philadel- 
phia, so famed for its excellent malt liquors. 

In the County of Dutchess there are valuable 
beds of Brown Hematite. In Iron and Marble it 
contains treasures of no ordinary value.* 

* Fishkill Ore Bed. — This is the ore bed belonging to the 
Fishkill Iron Company. It is situated about three miles 
north-east of the village of Hopewell. The hill in which 
it occurs presents no peculiarity that I could discover, 
except that its surface is made up of coarse gravel, and 
has a rounded form in various places. The ore is co- 
vered by a stiff whitish clay, and is intermixed with the 
same substance, called fuller's earth by the miners. Quartz 
is also one of the accompanying minerals, and a sort 
of slate is often found in the centre of the masses of ore, 
which causes some inconvenience to the smelter. The 
whole bed is made up of nodules of ore of various sizes 
and forms, but usually rounded, which are covered, and 
apparently cemented together, with a yellowish-brown 
clayey ochre. These nodules are often hollow, and when 
this is the case, the inner surface is highly polished, and 
has the appearance of having been fused. Sometimes, 
also, beautiful stalactites, of various sizes and forms, are 
found in these balls, and occasionally there is observed a 
thin lining of a black powdery matter, resembling plum- 
bago, which is believed to be oxide of manganese. The 
structure of the ore is fibrous, and its colour brown. 

This bed is worked by levels or burrows carried in va- 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON, 



241 



Formerly an old steam-boat house stood at the 
foot of Main-street, but that has been demolished, 
and a beautiful hotel has been erected in its place, 

rious directions through the hill in which it is situated. 
These excavations have already extended to the distance 
of ninety or an hundred feet from the entrance. The 
roof of these burrows is from twelve to thirty feet above 
the floor, and is supported by pillars of ore, from five to 
ten feet in thickness. The ore alternates with the clay 
and slate, and from what I subsequently observed, I infer 
that the bed rests upon mica slate, although I did not find 
that rock in the immediate vicinity. Independently of 
the interest which this locality possesses in a mineralogi- 
cal point of view, the judicious manner in whioh the 
mining operations are conducted, renders it worthy of 
particular notice. 

Clove Ore Bed. — This is an extensive deposite of brown 
hematite, situated in the south-western part of the town 
of Unionvalle. The general appearance of the hill in 
which this occurs does not differ much from that of the 
Fishkill ore bed, but it appears to be more extensive, at 
least it has been more extensively explored. In most in- 
stances it has been worked to the day ; large excavations 
having been made in various places, which communicate 
with some central point by means of roads or rail- ways. 
The Dover Iron Company have, however, sunk a well 
or shaft, and are constructing a lever to intersect it, a 
mode of working which promises to be highly advanta- 
geous. The ore is in general similar to that found at the 
Fishkill bed, but perhaps there is a larger proportion of 
the ochrey, ox fine ore, as it is here called, which is usually 
considered more valuable than the other varieiies. 
21 



242 LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 

by G. J. Vincent & Co. It fronts the steam-boat 
dock, and its windows look out upon the green and 
glassy waters of the river. The house is well man- 
aged by Messrs. Van Kleek & Son. 

Foss Ore Bed. — Proceeding from the Clove bed in a 
north-western direction, after crossing Chestnut Ridge, 
we come to a deposite of ore known by the above name, 
in the town of Dover, about a mile and a half W. S. W. 
from the furnace of the Dover Iron Company. This bed 
is situated in a valley between two spurs of the mountain 
which passes through this part of the county, and it is 
particularly interesting, as showing the association of the 
hematite with the mica slate, which occurs here in strata 
of some thickness, and contains garnets of various sizes. 
In extent, however, this bed appears to be inferior to either 
of those already noticed. The ore is in much larger 
masses, and is not only more difficultly reduced to powder, 
but contains a larger proportion of foreign substances. 

Amenta Ore Bed. — Passing through Dover Plains, in 
the vicinity of which are inexhaustible quarries of white 
and coloured marbles of excellent quality, we find another 
deposite of hematite in the north-western part of the town 
of Amenia. This is truly a magnificent locality, whe- 
ther we consider the quality or the enormous quantity 
of the ore. Supplies are here obtained for the Amenia 
Iron Company, and for several furnaces in the State of 
Connecticut. The bed has been opened at various places 
for the distance of 100 yards, and the ore presents all the 
varieties observed at the celebrated Salisbury deposite. 
It often occurs in the form of stalactites of various sizes, 
and possessing uncommon beauty. The same high polish, 
or blackish sootv matter, is observed on the surface of the 



LETTERS ABOUT THE HUDSON. 343 

Time would fail me to speak of all tne objects 
of interest and utility, connected with a village of 
unequalled beauty, enterprise, and prosperity. It 
holds out inducements to the ingenious mechanic, 
in my opinion, no where surpassed. The banking 
capital of the village amounts to about $1,000,000 ; 
this money is mostly loaned in the county, and prin- 
cipally to the industrious mechanic or the thriving 
farmer. Of the soundness and perfect solvency of 
the three banks of Poughkeepsie, there can be no 
manner of doubt ; they are managed with great 
skill, prudence, and liberality 

Yours, truly. 

nodules, and they not unfrequently have a light brown 
colour, and a structure so distinctly fibrous as to bear a 
considerable resemblance to wood. A fragment of a 
stalactite from this locality, was found to have a specific 
gravity of 3.828 ; and to lose upon calcination 13.5 per 
cent of its weight. The composition of this specimen 
will probably be a fair average of that of the pure hema- 
titic variety from the various localities in this county. 

Beck's Report. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

The writer of the foregoing letters made a flying ex- 
cursion to Saratoga Springs, and intended to have given 
a particular description of the place, but has been com- 
pelled by circumstances beyond his control, to omit an 
original account of matters and things relative to this 
fashionable resort. As these letters, however, will proba- 
bly fall into the hands of many a traveller on the Hud- 
son, who contemplates a visit, he would introduce from 
Mr. Davison's " Traveller's Guide through the Middle and 
Northern States, and the Provinces of Canada," the fol- 
lowing account, with a few alterations, rendered neces- 
sary by changes which have occurred since the appear- 
ance of the last edition of that valuable work. 

Saratoga Springs is situated north-easterly from Ballston 
Spa 6 1-2 miles, and 36 1-2 miles from the city of Albany. 
The village is located on an elevated spot of ground, sur- 
rounded by a productive level country, and enjoys, if not 
the advantage of prospect, at least the "advantage of a salu- 
brious air and climate, contributing much to the health and 
benefit of its numerous visitants. The springs, so just- 
ly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, are situated on 
the margin of a vale, bordering the village on the east, 
and are a continuation of a chain of springs discovering 
themselves about 12 miles to the south, in the town of 
Ballston, and extending easterly in the form of a cres- 
cent, to the Quaker village. In the immediate vicinity 
are 10 or 12 springs, the principal of which are the Con- 
gress, the Hamilton, the High Rock, the Columbian, the 
Flat Rock, the Washington, and the President. About a 
mile east, are found a cluster of mineral springs which 
go by the name of the Ten Springs. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING 

Is situated at the south end of the village, and is 
owned by Doct. John Clarke ; to whose liberality the 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 245 

public are much indebted for the recent improvements 
that have been made in the grounds adjoining the foun- 
tain, for the purity in which its waters are preserved, and 
for an elegant colonnade erected over the spring, affording 
a convenient promenade to visitants. 

The spring was first discovered in the summer of 1792, 
issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feet from its 
present location. Here it flowed for a number of years, 
until an attempt to improve the surface around it produced 
an accidental obstruction of its waters, which afterward 
made their appearance at the place where they now flow. 
It is enclosed by a tube sunk into the earth to the dis- 
tance of 12 or i4 feet, which secures it from the water 
of a stream, adjoining which it is situated. 

From, an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears that 
a gallon of the water contains the following substances : 
chloride of sodium, 385 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, 3 1-2 
grs. ; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs. ; bicarbonate of 
magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of lime, a little more 
than 98 grs. ; carbonate of iron, upwards of 5 grs. ; silix, 
1 1-2 grs.; carbonic acid gas, 311 cubic inches; atmos- 
pheric air, 7 dc. 

To this spring perhaps more than any other spot on 
the globe, are seen repairing in the summer mornings, 
before breakfast, persons of almost every grade and con- 
dition, from the most exalted to the most abject. The 
beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the poor — the 
devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all congregate here 
for purposes as various as are their situations in life. To 
one fond of witnessing the great diversity in the human 
character, this place affords an ample field for observation. 
So well, indeed, has it been improved by the little urchins 
who dip water at the fountain, that an imposing exterior 
is sure to procure for its possessor their services; while 
individuals less richly attired, and whose physiognomy in- 
dicate a less liberal disposition, are often compelled to 
wait till it is more convenient to attend to their wants. 

Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but the 
effect on those who taste it for the first time is frequently 
unpleasant. To such, the other fountains are generally 
more palatable, having a less saline taste than the Con- 
gress. 

The High Rock is situated on the west side of the val- 
21* 



24G SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Icy, skirting the east side of the village, about half a mile 
north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this spring 
is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its base, 
and 5 in height. It seems to have been formed by a con- 
cretion of particles thrown up by the water which for- 
merly flowed over its summit through an aperture of 
about 12 inches in diameter, regularly diverging from 
the top of the cone to its base. This spring was visited 
in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, but was known 
long before by the Indians, who were first led to it, either 
by accident or the frequent haunts of beasts, attracted 
thither by the saline properties of the water. A building 
was erected near the spot previous to the revolutionary 
war ; afterward abandoned, and again resumed ; since 
which the usefulness of the water has, from lime to time, 
occasioned frequent settlements within its vicinity. 

The water now arises within 2 feet of the summit, and 
a common notion prevails that it has found a passage 
through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a 
tree ; since which event it has ceased to 'flow over its 
brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is 
probable that the decay of the rock, which commenced 
its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may 
have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at 
length opened a passage between its decayed base and 
the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea is 
strengthened from the external appearance of the rock 
at its eastern base, which has already been penetrated by 
the implements of curiosity a number of inches. 

Between the Red spring in the upper village, and the 
Washington in the south part of the lower village, are 
situated most of the other mineral springs in which this 
place abounds. At three of the principal springs, the 
Hamilton, Monroe, and Washington, large and conve- 
nient bathing houses have been erected, which are the 
constant resort for pleasure as well as health, during the 
warm season. 

The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga are 
supposed to be the product of the same great laboratory, 
and they all possess nearly the same properties, varying 
only as to the quantity of the different articles held in so- 
lution. They are denominated acidulous saline and 
acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the Congress, 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 



247 



(which holds the first rank,) the Hamilton, High Rock, 
and President, at Saratoga ; and of the latter are the 
Columbian, Flat Rock, and Washington, at Saratoga, and 
the Old Spring and San Souci, at Ballston. The waters 
contain muriate of soda, hydriodate of soda, carbonate of 
soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, oxide of 
iron, and some of them a minute quantity of silica and 
alumina. Large quantities of carbonic acid gas are also 
contained in the waters, giving to them a sparkling and 
lively appearance. The Congress, in particular, the 
moment it is dipped, contains nearly one half more than 
its bulk of gas; a quantity unprecedented in any natural 
waters elsewhere discovered. 

Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of 
Saratoga, published a few years since, remarks, that " the 
temperature of the water in all these wells is about the 
same, ranging from 48 to 52 degrees on Fahrenheit's scale ; 
and they suffer no sensible alteration from any variation 
in the temperature of the atmosphere ; neither do the va- 
riations of the seasons appear to have much effect on the 
quantity of water produced. 

" The waters are remarkably limpid, and when first 
dipped, sparkle with all the life of good champaigne. 
The saline waters bear bottling very well, particularly 
the Congress, immense quantities of which are put up in 
this way, and transported to various parts of the world ; 
not, however, without a considerable loss of its gaseous 
property, which renders its taste much more insipid than 
when drank at the well. The chalybeate water is like- 
wise put up in bottles for transportation, but a very tri- 
fling loss of its gas produces an immediate precipitation 
of its iron ; and hence this water, when it has been bot- 
tled for some time, frequently becomes turbid, and finally 
loses every trace of iron ; this substance fixing itself to 
the walls of the bottle. 

" The most prominent and perceptible effects of these 
waters, when taken into the stomach, are cathartic, diuretic, 
and tonic. They are much used in a great variety of 
complaints ; but the diseases in which they are most ef- 
ficacious are jaundice and bilious affections generally, 
dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochondriacal com- 
plaints, depraved appetite, calculous and enphritic com- 
plaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, cutaneous 



248 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species or states 
of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, paralysis, scor- 
butic affections and old scorbutic ulcers, amenorrhea, 
dysmenorrhea, and chlorosis. In phthisis, and indeed all 
other pulmonary affections arising from primary dis- 
eases of the lungs, the waters are manifestly injurious, 
and evidently tend to increase the violence of the disease. 

" Much interest has been excited on the subject of the 
source of these singular waters ; but no researches have 
as yet. unfolded the mystery. The large proportion of 
common salt found among their constituent properties 
may be accounted for without much difficulty — all the 
salt springs of Europe, as well as those of America, being 
found in geological situations exactly corresponding to 
these; but the production of the unexampled quantity of 
carbonic acid gas, the medium through which the other 
articles are held in solution, is yet, and probably will re- 
main, a subject of mere speculation. The low and regu- 
lar temperature of the water seems to forbid the idea that 
it is the effect of subterranean heat, as many have sup- 
posed, and the total absence of any mineral acid, except- 
ing the muriatic, which is combined with soda, does 
away the possibility of its being the effect of any combi- 
nation of that kind. Its production is therefore truly un- 
accountable." 

In addition to the springs already enumerated, a valua- 
ble sulphur spring was discovered a few years since in 
the vicinity of the Hamilton Spring, in the rear of the 
Congress Hall. It rises from a depth of about twenty 
feet, in a tube of about 4 feet in diameter, and affords an 
ample supply of water for the bathing establishment with 
which it is connected. It has already proved highly ef- 
ficacious in many cases of salt rheum, scrofula, and other 
cutaneous eruptions; and were it generally known, would 
undoubtedly be resorted to more frequently by persons 
afflicted with these complaints. 

The boarding establishments of the first class at Sara- 
toga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall at 
the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, 
and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- 
tween them. Besides these, there are a number of other 
boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most noted 
of which are Montgomery Hall and the York House 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 



249 



in the south part, and the Columbian Hotel and Wash- 
ington Hall, in the north part of the village ; Prospect 
Hall, also kept by Mr. Benjamin R. Putnam, is beau- 
tifully located about one mile northwest of the village, 
and is a very respectable establishment. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Mr. Mungen, is situated 
within a few rods of the Congress spring, to which a 
handsome walk, shaded with trees, has been constructed 
for the convenience of guests. The space in front of the 
building is occupied by three apartments, each of which 
is enclosed by a railing, terminating at the front entran- 
ces of the piazza, and each used as a flower garden. The 
edifice is 300 feet in length, 3 stories high, besides an 
attic, and has two wings extending back, one 60, and the 
other about 100 feet. In front of the hall is a spacious 
piazza, extending the whole length of the building, 20 
feet in width, with a canopy from the roof, supported by 
17 massy columns, each of which is gracefully intwined 
with woodbine. There is also a back piazza, which 
opens upon a beautiful garden annexed to the establish- 
ment, and a small grove of pines, affording both fra- 
grance and shade to their loitering guests. The Con- 
gress Hall can accommodate from 250 to 300 visitants, 
and is justly ranked among the most elegant establish- 
ments in the union. 

The United States Hotel, kept by Seaman and Mar- 
vin, with its gardens and out-buildings, occupies a space 
in the centre of the village of about five acres. The 
main building is composed of brick, 125 feet long and 
34 wide. It is four stories high, and has a wing extend- 
ing west 60 feet, three stories high. A building 34 by 
<J0, appropriated to drawing and lodging rooms, has also 
been added on the south, and is connected with the main 
edifice by broad piazzas in front and rear, extending the 
whole length of both buildings. The ground in the rear 
and south of the hotel is handsomely laid out into walks, 
terminating on the west in a garden belonging to the es- 
tablishment, and the whole is tastefully ornamented with 
trees and shrubbery. The front of the edifice is enclosed 
by a delicate circular railing into three apartments, each 
containing a choice variety of flowers and shrubs, and 
shaded by a row of forest trees extending the whole 
length of the building. The hotel is situated equally dis- 



250 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

tant between the Congress and Flat Rock springs, and 
commands a view of the whole village, and from its 
fourth story a distinct view is had of the surrounding 
country for a number of miles. This establishment can 
accommodate nearly 250 visitants, and is one of the lar- 
gest and most splendid edifices in the United States. 

The Pavilion, kept by John Robson, is situated in a 
pleasant part of the village, immediately in front of the 
Flat Rock spring. The building is constructed of wood, 
136 feet in length, with a wing extending back from the 
centre of the main building, 80 feet, and another (which 
has been recently added) extending along Church street, 
of 200 feet, affording numerous private parlours, com- 
municating with lodging rooms, for the convenience of 
families. The main building is 2 1-2 stories high, with 
the addition of an attic, which, with the handsome porti- 
co in front, sustained by delicate colonnades, renders it, in 
beauty and proportion," one of the finest models of archi- 
tecture this country can produce. The large rooms of 
the Pavilion are so constructed that by means of folding 
doors the whole of the lower apartments may be thrown 
into one — an advantage which gives much additional in- 
terest to the promenade and cotillion parties, which fre- 
quently assemble on this extensive area. A large gar- 
den, to which is added a fish pond, is connected with the 
establishment. The Pavilion is calculated for the ac- 
commodation of about 250 visitants Mr. Robson, the 
present manager of this establishment, is a gentleman of 
great experience in the business, and will increase the 
popularity of the house. 

The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- 
spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated 
directly opposite the Congress Hall. It has, within a few 

? r ears, been much improved in its appearance, and en- 
arged by considerable additions to the main building. It 
now presents an elegant front, 120 feet in length, three 
stories high, with two wings extending west 60 feet. It 
is ornamented in front by 10 columns, which rise to 
nearly the height of the building, and support the roof of 
a spacious piazza. A garden in the rear of the building, 
together with a beautiful flower garden on the north open- 
ing to the main street, are among the varieties which con- 
tribute to the pleasantness of the establishment. It is 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 251 

now kept by Mr. W. Putnam, a son of the original pro- 
prietor, and ranks in point of elegance and respectabili- 
ty with the most favoured establishments in the vicinity. 

The Reading Rooms. There is in the village a print- 
ing office and bookstore, with which is connected a read- 
ing room, a mineralogical room, and a library, under the 
superintendence of the same proprietor. These rooms, 
a few doors north of the U. S. Hotel, are contained in 
the same building with the library and bookstore, but have 
their separate apartments. That appropriated for the 
reading room, is large and airy. It is ornamented with 
a variety of maps and charts, and is furnished by the 
daily mails with about 100 papers, from different parts of 
the United States and from the Canadas, besides several 
periodical publications. The mineralogical apartment is 
on the second story, to which stairs lead from the reading 
room. This apartment contains specimens of all the 
minerals discovered in this vicinity, together with a va- 
riety from different parts of the union, and from Europe. 
They are Very handsomely arranged in glass cases, have 
been much augmented of late by Dr. J. H. Steel, of this 
place, to whom the proprietor is principally indebted for 
their collection and arrangement. An apartment adjoin- 
ing the reading room, contains a library of about 2000 
volumes, which are well selected, and receive constant 
additions from the most fashionable productions of the 
day. There is also kept at the rooms a register of the 
names of visitants at the Springs, their residence and 
places of board. The names thus entered frequently 
number from 6 to 8000 in the course of the season. 

These rooms afford a pleasant retreat from the noise 
and bustle of the boarding establishments, and are much 
frequented by ladies and gentlemen of taste and fashion. 
The terms are reasonable, and are scarcely an equivalent, 
considering the extent and usefulness of the institution. 

At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
there are always sufficient objects of amusement to ren- 
der the transient residence of their summer guests pleas- 
ant and agreeable. Those whose taste is not gratified at 
the billiard rooms, which are annexed to most of the 
boarding establishments, can always enjoy a mental re- 
creation at the reading rooms ; a ride on the rail road, 
carriages for which leave both villages several times a 



252 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

day ; or a short excursion in the neighbourhood, where 
sufficient beauty and novelty of scenery are always pre- 
sented to render it interesting. The amusements of the 
day are usually crowned with a ball or promenade. The 
respective apartments appropriated for these occasions are 
calculated to accommodate from 150 to 200 guests ; but 
they often contain a much greater number. 

The spacious areas of the cotillion rooms are between 
80 and 90 feet in length, and when enlivened by the asso- 
ciated beauty and gayety resorting to the springs, present 
a scene of novelty and fascination seldom equalled. 

About two miles east from Saratoga Springs there is 
also a small fish pond, situated on the farm of a Mr. 
Barhyte. Parties often resort thither, as well to enjoy 
the amusements of fishing as to partake of a repast on 
trout, the proprietor reserving to himself the exclusive 
privilege of serving them up. 



THE END. 






928 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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